Clutch Adjustment

[z0n3x]

Ok i got my car back from the shop after having a clutch master cylinder put in. After that it started slipping. I have 3 theroies on this, but I have not the slightest clue on how to figure out which one is right.
A.) Too much hydraulic pressure if even possible
B.) Clutch adjustment rod not properly set?
C.) Clutch is toast

I never had a slipping problem until i got it back which makes me think either they took my car out for a spin and beat the hell out of it or they mis-aligned the rod. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[z0n3x]

up

 

[Black_Havoc]

Sounds like they didn't bleed the slave cylinder. Its easy to do though, just need at least 2 people ot do it. Fill the MC all the way to the top, then take out the bleeder screw form the SC, take it out all the way if you dont you'll push air back into the system and thus need it rebled. Then grab the SC rod with a pair of vice grips, and push it all the way back into the bore, its tough the spring is stiff, and wear eye protection, hydraulic fluid will shoot everywhere. And then have someone put the bleeder screw back in, and tighten it down while you keep the rod in, then have them watch the MC fluid while you let the rod go back to the clutch arm. I've had to do this on my Pontiac Fiero 3 or 4 times. As it has a slow leak somewhere. Good luck

 

[myblack98gst]

you know on mine I can actually bleed the system without touching the pedal... I just open the bleeder valve and the fluid just starts flowing then I just keep the MC cup full after about 3 MC cups full of fluid all the air is out. maybe this isn;t the best way but it has worked for me several times..

 

[whitegst]

Originally posted by myblack98gst
you know on mine I can actually bleed the system without touching the pedal... I just open the bleeder valve and the fluid just starts flowing then I just keep the MC cup full after about 3 MC cups full of fluid all the air is out. maybe this isn;t the best way but it has worked for me several times..

hey i'm not familiar with the tranny, so could you tell me where do i have to look for to find the bleeder valve? I need to bleed the clutch but i don't know where to start. Thanks

 

[miguels3000]

try going over roadrace's tips its at the bottom, heres the link
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
surf threw vfaq.com
the bleeder is on the slave cylinder pictured on road races page, the one where the hand is pulling back on the rubber boot thats the slave cylinder. its on the bottom of the transmission
a good way to bleed youre system is to fill a cup up with fluid run a hose from the bleeder to it have some one pump the pedle 2 times , then fill the clutch resoirvoir, pump 2 times fill the clutch resoirvoir, until all the fluid is clean and there is no air, then just tighten the bleeder on one of the last pumps youre buddy does. hope this makes sence, if it doesnt just ask, ill take more time to explain.
Good luck

 

[whitegst]

Thanks miguels3000 for helping, i took my car to the shop and got stock clutch replaced with Exedy Clutch kit. I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow so i'll see what happens.

 

[Black_Havoc]

a good way to bleed youre system is to fill a cup up with fluid run a hose from the bleeder to it have some one pump the pedle 2 times , then fill the clutch resoirvoir, pump 2 times fill the clutch resoirvoir,

I don't mean to be a dick, but thats a VERY bad idea. Coming from years of clutch system repairs, I can tell you to never pump the clutch pedal when you bleed it. Its not like a brake system that has a booster and one way valve to push fluid through, and keep pressure.

The best way to do it is have someone push the pedal all the way, hold it, then open the bleeder screw. When the fluid starts coming out slowly, QUICKLY close the bleeder, release pedal, fill MC, and repeat. Do that a good 4 or 5 times. And here is the trick that no one tells you. If you look at the SC, you notice the bleeder screw is opposite of where the rod is, odd... It seems that the SC bleeder will still let air stay on the left side, here is the fix.

Take the bleeder screw ALL the way out, and DON'T PUSH THE PEDAL!!! Have some one ready to put the bleeder screw in. Grab the slave cylinder rod, with something along the way of vicegrips (use cloth so it doesnt scratch the rod) push/pull, whatever works best for you, work SSLLOOWWLLYY or you'll spray DOT-3 all over you, and your ex-buddy's face . Then when the rod is in all the way, have your buddy put in and tighten the bleeder screw. Release slave slowly, put it back on the clutch fork arm, fill MC, and take it for a test.

The reason this works without pushing air back into the system is physics. Air in a hydraulic system, will travel toward the place with least restiance. Thats why you dont have to worry about air moving back into the bled line. Just be sure not to slip and let the SC go, or you'll curse a few times, then have to re-bleed the entire system, and hope you don't slip again.


I've done this on countless GM FWD cars, a few GM/Ford RWD cars, one Nissan Pathfinder 4X4, and my Project car Pontiac Fiero, its worked great for them all. Nite All.

 

[miguels3000]

Sounds Good Black Havoc, didnt know that one. like you stated, nobody tells you. im doing it this weekend, to make sure I have my system well bleed.
the way i blead my system worked great, many times even with other cars. my tought is as youre bleeding the system all the fluid is coming out as well as air bubbles you can see, the fluid in the can prevents from air vacuming back in.
hmm, what youre trying to explain is it that because it has no booster it doesn not push/pressure the air pockets out? is that why its not an effective way???

 

[Black_Havoc]

what youre trying to explain is it that because it has no booster it doesn not push/pressure the air pockets out? is that why its not an effective way???

Exactly my point. With a brake system, as you pump the pedal, pressure raises in the system, untill the specified pressure is achived. Then it bleeds back. With a clutch system, you push it in, fluid flows in one direction, let go, it comes back. It has no pressure valve, so by pumping it all your doing is making BIG air bubbles SMALLER, atomizing them if you will. Which, in turn, "tricks" you into thinking its totally bled, when you don't see "big" bubbles coming out anymore. This is the death of most MC and SC's, being bled improperley. Thus exposing the main seals to air, and letting them leak. Not to mention letting the clutch slip, in rare instances, leading to flywheel glazing. Which is VERY VERY bad... TTYL

 

[hostile]

Either way a slipping clutch sounds like engament issues to me instead of hydraulics.

Now if the pedal felt bad that would be hydrauilcs.

Adjust your clutch travel with the rod on the master cylinder.

YOU SHOULD DO THIS VERY TIME YOU DO A CLUTCH.