Hydraliuc system question HELP NEEDED BADLEY

[Flybiyou]

Ok first I own a 98 gst I want to replace the whole hydraluic system I bought all the parts from satan and HOW THE HELL DO YOU RUN THE LINE FROM THE MASTER ALL THE WAY TO THAT RUBBER HOSE THING. Theres no way my hand would even fit all the way down the firewall Not only that but have any of you actually looked at the line its got more curves than a roller coster and it goes all over under and twisted around stuff it looks like you would have to take the motor out and satan wants $600.00 to put it in . So does any one know a easy way to do it or is there a place that makes a whole new design to replace all the hydraliuc lines from the master to the slave . I need the info bad the tube is bad and im not paying 600 for a job that can most likely be done with diffrent parts and make life easyer and not kill 2 weeks of pay!

Please help

and read my other thread (no pedel pressure) Its why i am changing the lines

Thanks

 

[Flybiyou]

Anybody any ideas please !

 

[4pistons]

Dude, when your car was built that line that runs along the firewall was one of the first things installed. Then everything else was bolted over it. It will not be easy to replace. I doubt anyone makes a replacement kit because there is very little call to replace it. Why are you changing it?

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[OMN_DSM]

Like he said, why are you replacing it? Did you some how put a hole in it? If it must be replaced you can always find somwhere that fabricates stainless steel lines and give them what threads you need on the ends and bend a peice of welding rod where you want it to be routed and they can make you one.

 

[slideways]

Unless that steel line is broken or pinched somehow there is no need to replace it. Even if you somehow contaminated the system the rubber parts will be affected not the steel. So give some more details, or if you really want to replace it anyway, go to pep boys or autozone and buy a chunk of steel brake line with correct size fittings and a $5 tube bender and see what you can do to route it yourself.

 

[Flybiyou]

im replacing it because I replaced all the other lines and this is the last one. Im replaceing it because there has to be a leak in the system and thats the last line if you look at my other post (NO PEDAL PRESSURE) it will explain more i dont feel like typeing it all out. (my left arm broken) If you read it you will know everthing im going through HELL sounds like a good explainsion

 

[Flybiyou]

Oh and the fitting that screws in the master is a little striped the person that owned it befor must of ####ed it all up

 

[set3422]

agree don't know why you need to replace the the clutch line. If you're positive that it leaks somewhere, get some -4 ss braided lines and relocate the routing. Don't know what's the fitting size on the master end, but on the slave end is 8x1.25mm. Good luck.

 

[Flybiyou]

Could i run a ss braided cable from the master to the slave if so how long does it have to be and where can i get the cable Did anyone read the (no pedel pressure) post that gives more explaintion why im changing it and if anyone knows anything about that post what it could be that would help alot to. DOES THE 2600 DO ANYTHING TO THE STOCK HYDRO SYSTEM DO I NEED LIKE A HEAVY DUTY SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDER TO HELP THE CLUTCH FEEL LIKE I SAID YOU CAN REALLY THE PICTURE IF YOU READ THE OTHER POST

THANKS

 

[4pistons]

Yes you can run braided line but not the rubber fuel hose! Be sure you get braided hydraulic line, like for brakes. Its got a nylon inner tube I think.

DOES THE 2600 DO ANYTHING TO THE STOCK HYDRO SYSTEM DO I NEED LIKE A HEAVY DUTY SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDER TO HELP THE CLUTCH

Poke around at Taboos Speed Shop site. http://www.taboospeedshop.com/installationtips.htm There's a bunch of info on beefing up the clutch components to withstand the ACT 2600. The stock system was never designed to handle a heavy clutch like the 2600 so you should do a few things to make it work better.

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[Defiant]

It's well past time you turned this project over to a shop. You have no apparent idea of what you're doing, and will spend far more money and time chasing down ghosts in the wrong graveyard.
Steel hydraulic lines virtually _never_ need replacing, and even on the very unlikely chance that yours does, it's not the problem with your clutch.

 

[Flybiyou]

FOR THE GUY WHO WROTE THIS
It's well past time you turned this project over to a shop. You have no apparent idea of what you're doing, and will spend far more money and time chasing down ghosts in the wrong graveyard.
Steel hydraulic lines virtually _never_ need replacing, and even on the very unlikely chance that yours does, it's not the problem with your clutch


I do know what im doing its not like tunning a car and i havent spent as much as you might think. The pedel is actually holding more pressure it just feels a little spongy the heavy pedel feel that everone says is supposed to come with a 2600 is not there the car shifts fine it just dosent have the stiff pedel and if you take your foot and aply a little pressure on the pedel it starts to sink to the floor and the slave sits where it would be when the pedel was up but this only happens when you aply a little pressure on the pedel when you just push it down and shift the pedel comes back up and its ok even when I punch it and go through all the gears its fine.AS FOR A SHOP I TOOK IT TO 4 AND ALL OF THEM HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG I CHANGED THE MASTER AND SLAVE 2 TIMES IN 2 WEEKS AND STILL THE SAME THE SHOPS TOLD ME IT WAS EITHER MY MASTER OR MY PRESSURE PLATE BUT BOTH OF THOES MAKE NO SENSE THE WHOLE CLUTCH JOB HAS MAYBE 2300 MILES ON IT AND IVE ONLY PUNCHED IT 4 TO 5 TIMES AFTER 1000 MILES (i wanted to wait a little more than 500 before i beat on it )
One shop even told me after they had it on a rack that it was my clutch fork HE had it for a whole day and 200 later he told me that. Its fine though another tech took of my trans and checked it out for me thank god hes a friend of the family or that would been a waste of some good money SO unless you know whats wrong or a good shop to take it to in illionis or you want to pay another tech to tell me what it isint dont assume anthing or tell me what i need to do cause i have wasted enough takeing it to shops just so they can look at it and tell me its you master or clutch fork or pressure plate when all those are fine and i had the master pressure checked to see if it was leaking and no its not so any other ideas

 

[Flybiyou]

Also will someone try this and tell me if theres does this
Take the clutch fork and push it so you can push the slave rod back into the slave and tell me if you are able to push it back in my goes in with just one finger pushing it and so does my friends on his prelude and his pedel feels great .

 

[OMN_DSM]

I don't think Defiant is to far off on his statment. Somtimes the DSM's hydraulic system is a pain in the rear to get to work properly. My guess is that your mastercylinder is not adjested properly resulting in quick failure. When you get it adjusted to where you think it is good make sure you can spin the adjustment/plunger rod with your finger tips. Do the same with your slave cylinder. If you can not turn it with your finger tips you are putting constant strain on somthing. The stystem is not meant to take constant strain therefore resulting in failure of a seal, or the pressure plate dragging on the flywheel with the clutch in. As simple as our clutching systems look they are extremely complicated. If I was local I would lend you a hand but I will do what I can from here. Good luck

 

[pneumo]

When I push on the clutch fork the slave rod goes in with light pressure. That's normal.

It's also normal for it to come back out within a couple of seconds.

If your master cylinder threads are stripped, just get a new master cylinder. It's made out of aluminum, and the hose that bolts to it has steel threads, so most likely the threads on the line are OK. Check it to make sure.

 

[Flybiyou]

The nut on the line is striped the part you put the 10mm wrench on The piece that goes in the master.

Thanks for trying the slave thing i will check to see if mine goes back in within a few seconds and tell you how it goes. Usally i have someone push the pedel in to reset it it and pull the pedel back off the floor and push it again to build up the pressure.

 

[Flybiyou]

I pushed the rod of the slave back in and waited and it never returned to its original spot what does that mean anybody?

Also has anyone put a 2600 in there car and ended up with stock pedel pressure or litttle less. I can tell when i push the pedel in that theres a slight hesation before the clutch releases Plus the engagement and disengagement or a little ruff i cant seem to make the shifts smooth i tried sliping it in just dropping it basically after a shift and it always jerks a tad.

 

[pneumo]

That sounds like there is something wrong with the slave. It has a light spring inside that pushes the rod back out. I also suspect there is a leak somewhere, possible a couple of leaks. Check the stripped nut at the master- wipe it clean and dry, then push on the clutch a few times and see if it's wet. Have you checked the fluid level? If there's a leak the level will go down.

It might be worth it to check the slave for leaks. Just pull the rubber boot back and see if there's fluid under it, if there is, you have a leaky slave.

Also look under the dash for any signs of wet oily stains running down from were the clutch adjustment rod goes into the firewall. Any leaks from a worn piston seal on the master show up there.

Also do a leak check on the flexible hose that leads from the frame to the trans. I didn't see if you upgraded it to a stainless braided line yet, but for a ACT 2600 you should definately have it. A stock rubber line with many years of use won't hold the pressure of a strong clutch.
HTH and good luck.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by Flybiyou
I do know what im doing its not like tunning a car and i havent spent as much as you might think.

Despite all evidence to the contrary.

Good luck, you're on your own.