The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

clutch job, anything i miss?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EVO9_Inside

10+ Year Contributor
75
0
Aug 6, 2011
akron, Ohio
when i do a job. i dont like to do anything around it twice, just the way i am, so what im looking for is to cover anything possible i can do during a trans job.
so far i have, Southbend clutch, oem TOB. extremepsi shift base bushings, and linkage bushings, a rebuilt transfer case, new axle seals, rear main seal, new axles, redline MT90 gl4(3qts), 4 spider gear to replace my welded bull$%^ from the previous owner..
Anything you guys think i should add on to my parts list before i go at it?
 
Shift fork and pivot ball
good call, pivot ball for sure. but are the clutch forks a big issue with these cars? its hard to justify 90$ for a nice one when i have no real reason to replace it, in terms of wear and tear.
 
The clutch release clip. Only $2, worth it.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

If your clutch fork has never been replaced, it's probably worthwhile. What are your plans for the flywheel?
ordered that clip, and pivot ball.

the previous owner installed an act 2600 with act alum flywheel. i hate the clutch, flywheel is meh, if its in good shape and only needs a slight machine ill keep it, if not im switching to the fidanza steel lightweight.
 
The Fidanza flywheels for our cars are aluminum with a steel friction surface. I had one on my old 2G and I liked it, some people don't like them, but good choice in my opinion.

You'll also want to double check that your slave cylinder isn't leaking or anything. Good time to replace if it is.
 
The Fidanza flywheels for our cars are aluminum with a steel friction surface. I had one on my old 2G and I liked it, some people don't like them, but good choice in my opinion.

You'll also want to double check that your slave cylinder isn't leaking or anything. Good time to replace if it is.

i stand corrected, my car has the fidanza flywheel with the steel plate. i thought it was an act thing. it just seems to not rev like a lightweight flywheel should.

replaced the master, slave, and installed the SS line last month chasing down the clutch problem.
 
While you're in there, might as well replace your rear main seal as well just for the sake of knowing its new. Don't want oil all over your new clutch after a few thousand miles.
 
Just so you are aware, the socket on the fork that the ball fits into wears out more so than the ball itself, so generally, the fork should be replaced before or with the ball. Do yourself a huge favor by installing the clutch, sliding the transmission on flush with the block and observe the position of the fork where it comes out of the window before bolting anything down- if the fork sits toward the driver side some, you are good. If the fork is sitting more toward the passenger side, you either need to get a new fork, or shim the pivot ball with a washer, check position again, and once its good you can finish the job. Also, make sure youve got both dowels in the engine block- one in each corner- these help align the transmission squarely and this is important.
 
While you're in there, might as well replace your rear main seal as well just for the sake of knowing its new. Don't want oil all over your new clutch after a few thousand miles.

Already bought it;)

Just so you are aware, the socket on the fork that the ball fits into wears out more so than the ball itself, so generally, the fork should be replaced before or with the ball. Do yourself a huge favor by installing the clutch, sliding the transmission on flush with the block and observe the position of the fork where it comes out of the window before bolting anything down- if the fork sits toward the driver side some, you are good. If the fork is sitting more toward the passenger side, you either need to get a new fork, or shim the pivot ball with a washer, check position again, and once its good you can finish the job. Also, make sure youve got both dowels in the engine block- one in each corner- these help align the transmission squarely and this is important.

I went to the car, removed the boot, slave cylinder, and pressed the fork so it was lying against the pressure plate it pointed more to the passenger side of the car.
This would presume a new fork or shim is needed?
 
The fidanza with the replaceable friction plate on it is very good and helps hold power well.
However, after reading a bit if I had to do it over again i would keep a stock-ish weight or stock flywheel.
Unless you have a fluidampr at the other end of the crank I would advise against a lightweight flywheel.
Or if you have a completely balanced rotating assembly that would make me a little less nervous. The extra mass is not that big of a deal. I noticed a difference in revs but nothing huge.


Just my .02 bro. Looks like you have everything else covered pretty well and know what ## doing.
 
Yep, you need a new fork or you need to shim the ball until the fork is angled slighty to the driver side. The reason for this is because a worn fork will cause the slave to either run out of travel before disengaging the clutch properly, or the fork can in some instances hit the passenger side of the "window", still not work the clutch properly and possibly break some junk.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I'm doing my clutch soon too. Along with the clutch (centerforce twin disc) I have these ready to order as well:

OEM Throwout Bearing
OEM Axle Seal Front Driver Side
OEM Axle Seal Front Passenger Side
Competition Clutch Forged Steel Release Fork & Pivot Ball:
Extreme PSI Complete Clutch Line (Slave to Master Cyl
OEM Clutch Release Clip


Anything else I should order just in case? I don't mind spending a little extra money for parts if there's even a slight chance I'm going to need them.

Also, does anyone have a guide for replacing the rear main oil seal? What's all involved in that?

Thanks!
 
That should be good. You could do an output shaft seal as well, since its cheap and you could change it relatively easily if you've got a pick, just be careful not to scratch the surface of the shaft, and if youre not comfortable changing this with the shaft in, but are determined to change it, you could pop the 5th gear cover of the transmission, pull the clip off the vc, remove the vc- be careful not to lose the detent ball, and pull the shaft out, change the seal then throw it back together. If the inside of the bell housing isn't caked with oil, and it never left drips or small puddles of gear oil where you park, then I wouldn't worry with it though.

Don't forget to thoroughly clean the input shaft splines, lightly grease, then slide the clutch disk onto the shaft and be sure the disk can slide freely on the shaft before installing the clutch, and be sure that the transmission never hangs and transmits any weight on the shaft when youre putting it onto the engine, or you could wreck the disk.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top