Transfer Case Carnage

[Artago]

Hi all,

As some of you know I bought a 1G TSI AWD a while back. I've been fixing all the issues to get it up and running. I was topping up the t-case with oil and noticed it was leaking.

So I took it apart and found this:

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8 Mega Pixel originals found here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/112644794890091871636/TransferCaseCarnage?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOHXifrZuZa7DA&feat=directlink

I can get a seal and bearing from Jack but where do I get a new shaft/gear assembly?

Is it even worth it or should I just get another t-case?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[steve]

Around here it would be much easier and cheaper to get another transfer case.

 

[bastarddsm]

Save the parts tho. That's easy to fix!

 

[Artago]

Around here it would be much easier and cheaper to get another transfer case.

Ya it looks that way. I've started looking around for a t-case. I just wanted to see if I could source the shaft. But it looks like that would cost more. Not to mention, be a complete PITA. Know anyone who has one in decent shape?

Save the parts tho. That's easy to fix!

Yeah its not too hard. Just the shaft is hard to find / expensive.

 

[Artago]

Ok so I'm looking for a t-case replacement.

Can anyone point me to a good article explaining the differences between model years?

I was also hoping to compile some info for the DSM wiki but I'm having a hard time gather data.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[turboglenn]

i hate to use the old "search feature" reply but i dont have them linked but i use search all the time and found the info looking up spline counts when i had to change from a 95 trans to a 98 trans. thats some carnmage for sure no shortage of broken parts

 

[Artago]

i hate to use the old "search feature" reply but i dont have them linked but i use search all the time and found the info looking up spline counts when i had to change from a 95 trans to a 98 trans. thats some carnmage for sure no shortage of broken parts

Yeah, too much work / money to repair. Trying to find another t-case.

Any 91-96 MT t-case should work, correct?

Same gear ratios?

2G DSM Transmission Differences - YouTube

 

[JackM]

That failure is caused due to lack of oil. Mits has a recall on that and you could have got a new t-case for free if you didn't take yours apart.

I would very highly recommend replacing your drive-shaft yoke too. They have a freeze plug which leaks and that is most likely the killer for the t-case. Don't do the silicone trick to it because that doesn't work. Either weld around the plug completely, or replace the assembly so you don't have to worry about killing another t-case in that car.

 

[JusMX141]

Why are you searching for a new shaft/cup? I don't see anything wrong with your old one.

 

[Artago]

That failure is caused due to lack of oil. Yup, the idiot who owned the car before me didn't take care of it. I also had a hole in my tranny from the 36mm end nut backing out. I've fixed that already. Mits has a recall on that and you could have got a new t-case for free if you didn't take yours apart. I will contact the dealer, maybe I'll get lucky and get it replaced.

I would very highly recommend replacing your drive-shaft yoke too. They have a freeze plug which leaks and that is most likely the killer for the t-case. Don't do the silicone trick to it because that doesn't work. Either weld around the plug completely, or replace the assembly so you don't have to worry about killing another t-case in that car.

I was planning on doing that in both DSMs. In the mean time I need to fix/replace this t-case so I can get my 1G up and running. The plan was to get it on the road and then send you my 2G tranny for a 2.1 rebuild. Once that's done, I will tear down the 1G and rally prep it.

Side note, I have an old t-case from my 2G. It's a bit rusty so it need a rebuild, but assuming I did that, would it work in the 1G? IE: Same ratios? I don't want to burn up my viscous coupler.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/444703-transfer-case-ratios.html

 

[Artago]

Why are you searching for a new shaft/cup? I don't see anything wrong with your old one.

The bearing surface is all cut up. Deep gouges, I assumed it was no good because the bearing mating surface looks like battlefield at Somme France after WW1

 

[JusMX141]

Did you get the inner race off the cup yet? If not there's no reason to assume it's no good. If the race spun on the cup and cut it really badly then maybe it should be replaced, but I see nothing that really proves the race turned on the cup.

If you don't have a puller, use a cutoff tool to cut a groove diagonally across the race to remove a good portion of the material, then nail it with a chisel a couple times right in the groove. It should split, allowing you to slide the race right off.

 

[Artago]

Did you get the inner race off the cup yet? If not there's no reason to assume it's no good. If the race spun on the cup and cut it really badly then maybe it should be replaced, but I see nothing that really proves the race turned on the cup.

If you don't have a puller, use a cutoff tool to cut a groove diagonally across the race to remove a good portion of the material, then nail it with a chisel a couple times right in the groove. It should split, allowing you to slide the race right off.

I might be confused here. Do you mean this guy?

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It looks toast to me....

 

[bryanwheat]

I might be confused here. Do you mean this guy?

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It looks toast to me....

That is not a part of the gear. That is part of the bearing assembly. That needs to be pressed off. If the teeth on the shafts are not damaged than i would just clean it up, throw some new bearings in it and put it back together with new seals and gaskets.

 

[Artago]

That is not a part of the gear. That is part of the bearing assembly. That needs to be pressed off. If the teeth on the shafts are not damaged than i would just clean it up, throw some new bearings in it and put it back together with new seals and gaskets.

The gears are all in good shape. No damage what so ever.

That collar/sleeve (with the damage) is removable? IE: Part of the bearing? Sorry, I thought it was part of the shaft...

Cause that seems like the simplest fix. New bearing and seals and we're good to go?

EDIT: Anyone have an exploded diagram of the t-case? That would be helpful...

 

[gixrman]

Contact Buschur he had about 6 lined up for sale at his shop when I was there for the shoot out.

 

[Artago]

Contact Buschur he had about 6 lined up for sale at his shop when I was there for the shoot out.

T-Cases? Or are you talking about bearings?

 

[bryanwheat]

\

That collar/sleeve (with the damage) is removable?

Yes, it will come right off with a press and a bearing tool. I would pull the main shaft out and replace the bearings on it also because some of that damaged bearing might of gotten into the other bearings.

 

[Artago]

Is this the guy I need? Along with a new bearing and seal?

More Information for SKF 99114

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..and this bearing http://www.jackstransmissions.com/collections/t-cases/products/t-case-input-shaft-bearing-small

 

[bryanwheat]

Is this the guy I need? Along with a new bearing and seal?

More Information for SKF 99114

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..and this bearing Jacks Transmissions LLC — T-Case Shaft Bearing - Small

That is just a seal surface repair sleeve. That won't apply here unless the seal surface is damaged.

 

[gixrman]

Know anyone who has one in decent shape?

Thats what I was going off of. Yes, he had 6ish complete T-cases in front of his shed listed for sale.

 

[Artago]

Thats what I was going off of. Yes, he had 6ish complete T-cases in front of his shed listed for sale.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[bastarddsm]

Ya it looks that way. I've started looking around for a t-case. I just wanted to see if I could source the shaft. But it looks like that would cost more. Not to mention, be a complete PITA. Know anyone who has one in decent shape?



Yeah its not too hard. Just the shaft is hard to find / expensive.

What do you mean? That bearing presses off easy, and should only be about $30. You can probably get away without re-shimming it either.

I replaced the coupler in mine with a bfh, and a $10 harbor freight bearing splitter.

 

[Artago]

What do you mean? That bearing presses off easy, and should only be about $30. You can probably get away without re-shimming it either.

I replaced the coupler in mine with a bfh, and a $10 harbor freight bearing splitter.

I've never done it before so I need to be spoon fed

I need a parts list, bearing splitter, and diagram/procedure.

 

[bryanwheat]

I've never done it before so I need to be spoon fed

I need a parts list, bearing splitter, and diagram/procedure.

You sill need a press in order to get that race off the shaft. The bearing splitter set should have a little puller with it, but they usually aren't strong enough to get these apart. You will also need the press to press the new bearing on. I would but all new bearings for everything inside the transfer along with new gaskets and seals. Here are part numbers for what you would need

Gaskets and seals:

MF520414
MD723202
MD727944
MD701430

Bearings:
input
MD723636
MD717511

output
MD717511
MD718323

Crush sleeve:
MD727123

Lock nut:
MD743421