The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Take A Look At This Pic!!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

geovanie

20+ Year Contributor
90
0
Sep 15, 2002
Miami,
My car is not taking any gears!! I looked to the right of the clutch slave cylinder and there is a crack! I have a 1 gen non turbo. It's to the right of the transmission. Please look at the pic and let me know the name of that part and how much will it cost to get fixed, if anyone knows!:thumb:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Originally posted by geovanie
My car is not taking any gears!! I looked to the right of the clutch slave cylinder and there is a crack! I have a 1 gen non turbo. It's to the right of the transmission. Please look at the pic and let me know the name of that part and how much will it cost to get fixed, if anyone knows!:thumb:



it's nothing to worry about. That's just the block rear plate. Tranny not shifting can be low clutch fluid, broken relase fork, bad pressure plate, bad hub/slider, and etc. Definitely is not coming from that plate. Good luck.
 
:rolleyes: ouch... someone must have droped the car on something, or even jack it up wili a spinning drill or something OMG WTF happened...
The tranny not shifting is prolly the leist of your worries my friend!
 
The mechanic already came and told me it was the engine block, but it's staying that way, he said he's gonna have to change the clutch kit and put in a better one because that's all loose inside he said, and he's gonna put in the bolt that's missing and try and hold it as tight as he can with the other bolts.:shhh: I'm selling the car in a couple of months so I guess I'll take it slow from now on.:cry:
 
DAMN! The transmission has a big crack in it too! What the heck happened?? I wasn't abusing the car when it happened! Now the mechanic is going to see if he can weld the crack in the transmission. If not, how much do you guys think a used or rebuilt one will cost?
 
Well, changed the clutch kit and welded the transmission but it's still not working properly. Actually even worse, it's almost impossible to put the car in first gear. I guess either the synchros are totally gone or the transmission is..... Grinding in almost every gear and almost impossible to downshift....
 
the same damn thing happened to me! except mine is the block not the tranny. decided to go with a japan motor and trans, except it's still in not in the car.:cry:
 
yup the engine block also has a crack, but it's the pice holding the bolt for the slave cylinder. The transmission needs to be changed though. I just haven't got the slightest clue as to how to fix it without having to buy a new engine block!:mad:
 
same thing happened to my awd. not fun. the tranny kept backing off because that ear on the block wasnt holding it. You said the mount for the slave is cracked, this is most likely why you cant shift. when you press the clutch the slave cylinder pushes off the clutch release fork rather than pushing it in (because of the crack) and depressing the clutch. The broken block also may play a part. If the other tranny bolts backed out a little like mine the tranny will actually rock, and push away from the flywheel when you press the clutch. This doesnt allow the clutch to fully disengage, which makes it impossible to shift.
 
bought a new engine. I didnt want to mess around with welding the block. It's cast iron and welding it is not that strong, it could break again. You could go the welding route, but i dont half ass my cars, and i consider welding an engine block to be half assed. Welding the tranny should hold up pretty good though.
 
Originally posted by TSiturbo001
bought a new engine. I didnt want to mess around with welding the block. It's cast iron and welding it is not that strong, it could break again. You could go the welding route, but i dont half ass my cars, and i consider welding an engine block to be half assed. Welding the tranny should hold up pretty good though.


how much you paid for the engine?
 
Originally posted by geovanie
Well, changed the clutch kit and welded the transmission but it's still not working properly. Actually even worse, it's almost impossible to put the car in first gear. I guess either the synchros are totally gone or the transmission is..... Grinding in almost every gear and almost impossible to downshift....

The reason why you are having trouble getting the car into gear is because of the crack in the block. Have somebody pump the clutch and watch how far the transmission moves from the block. That movement isn't allowing the clutch fork to put enought pressure on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. That's your problem, and your "mechanic"(so he's called) should have figured that out right away. For example, when I installed the clutch in my car I accidentally left out the bolt on the back of the transmission, my car wouldn't go into any gear. For a temporary fix until you either weld it(good luck)or get a new block, you can try putting a longer rod in the slave cylinder to compensate for the movement. I don't know if or how long that will work though. Good Luck, Mike
 
Do you think I should try fixing the block before I put in the new trnasmission? I just bought a transmission and if it's not necessary I'll resell it.
 
I don't believe a new transmission is going to solve your problem. That block needs to be fixed or replaced so that bolt can keep that side of the transmission from moving. It being so close to the slave cylinder doesn't help things at all. Remember what I said, I left the bolt out on the opposite side of the transmission, furthest from the slave cylinder and mine still would not go into gear. Putting that "new" transmission in will be a waste of time and money if you don't fix the block first.
 
How much would that block cost to replace and out in? i bet a lot huh? Isn't there like a way to fix that ear of the block without having to get a new block?
 
There is a gorup buy somewhere, engine and tranny for 1600 shipped.

That is probably your best bet.
 
This could be a stretch, but you could take that ear off completely, get a thick piece of hardened steal a couple of inches longer than the distance between the motor mount and the crossmember. Place the plate on the other side of the cross member and the motor mount. Before doint that, drill a hole it in, get a much longer bolt, washer, and nut, and use the motor mount and crossmember to hold the transmission to the block. This is an extreme piece of rigging, but it may just work. I think it would definitely be worth a try before you go about replacing the block, especially if you are planning on selling the car. I hope you understood what I was saying. Mike
 
Actually I do. I was just thinking the same thing. I hope it works well in the end though. Do you guys think I should change the tranny? I already bought it but if it's not necessary I'll re-sell it. The only thing is that right now the clutch has no pressure at all. When I pump the clutch it goes straight to the floor. :cool:
 
Hold on a second, the way to fix it is to take the tranny off and take it(the car or just the motor) to a welding shop, perfeably an engine shop that does welding. They will know how to fix it right. I have welded several bolt boss ears back on to engines. It is a strong and dependable way to fix it. The idea with the hardened steel is not neccisary because you will get better results if you use the same peice that is broken off. When you start to weld different metals together, they have a tendency to crack at the weld. The way to weld cast is with nickle rod. It is the only way to assure that the weld will bond correctly.
Call around to some shops and get a quote I'm sure that it won't be an outrageous price. Then go from there to get the tranny straightened out. The most probable cause is like what was mentioned earlier, the slave cylinder is more than likley flexing and not releasing the pressure plate all the way because of the broken ear. It's amazing that less than a 1/4 of an inch of travle will cause it to shift improperly, but it will. I have had my own experiences!!

Steve. :thumb:

:talon: :laser: :dsm:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top