hey daren_p...
im bolting up the gas tank first thing tomorrow and a picture would be worth A LOT right now sense ive got no idea which one it is your talking about???? thanks in advance and this swap is actually going really smooth (so far) and its going to be very rewarding. im excited to get her off the jacks and back out onto the street again, soon... maybe.
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-Corey
97 Sorano Red A/T GST converted M/T GSX
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I didn't happen to take a pic of the modified bracket & my gas tank is already installed, so to late to take a pic now. Though you can see the bracket I was talking about, back in post #198, where I posted a pic.
Daren - Did you wire your fuel tank just like my diagram shows?
I also check my PC at home to see if I could find pictures of the hangers that I made and I cannot. I must have deleted them. But basically, all I did was re-create the AWD hangers with some moly tubing I had laying around. It worked out nicely.
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-Paul Volk-
'99 GSX
'91 TSI
Daren - Did you wire your fuel tank just like my diagram shows?
I also check my PC at home to see if I could find pictures of the hangers that I made and I cannot. I must have deleted them. But basically, all I did was re-create the AWD hangers with some moly tubing I had laying around. It worked out nicely.
I had the factory wiring schematics printed out to use but I think I ended up throwing them out with some other papers so I just quickly made a note of the connections from the factory wiring diagrams & used this & your drawing to hook it up. Basically was going off yours & then just looking at my notes to verify we got the same answer.
No problem on the exhaust, I think I'll be able to locate most of the OEM brackets & if not I'll do what you said
Just wanted to check in and say that I am doing this swap right now and it is going very well so far. Gofer and I are doing a bit more than most as we are going from fwd auto to awd manual. We have about 12 hours into the swap right now working after work and on weekends when we can. We have all bolts removed for the GST set up and all bolts installed for the AWD rear subframe, both tunnel hangers are welded up and the gas tank is installed. Waiting to get another buddy to help install the rear subframe then we are done out back. As for the front, both axles are out, auto tranny and shifter are pulled, and clutch and brake pedels are installed(as well as the cluthc master cylinder). We are doing a whole bunch of "while we're at it's" such as changing springs from sportlines to a pro-kit, installing rmdsm sways, all prothane motor mount inserts and so on. I'll get back to it on thursday. scheduled is reinstallation of the manual shifter and cables, re-wireing the fuel system for awd and putting the interior back together.
I've taken a ton of pictures too so look for those soon. We should have this done in the next week or so depending on when the dealership can get parts we need.
Daren, good to see you are doing the AWD too! Did you ever get any testing results from the evo3 IM?? Gofer now has the one that was in my car and I still wish I could have gotten before and after tests!!
-Danny
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-Dan
20AUG08- crashed 99GSX
Worst day EVAR.
Rear subframe installed. Had a quick question. I wired the fuel pump according to sources here. I was trying to test its proper operation. I put the key in the ignition and turned it to on. Pump is a 255 and used to be quite loud. Now there is no sound. Does it only turn on when it gets signal that the car has started? Also having trouble getting the spacer out of the crank to replace it with a act chromoly fw.
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-Dan
20AUG08- crashed 99GSX
Worst day EVAR.
Daren - I just stumbled across those pictures of that hangers that I made. These are basically just replicated AWD hangers that I welded onto my car. Worked great.
____________________________
-Paul Volk-
'99 GSX
'91 TSI
The starter is out as there is a manual tranny going into the car. I did try pushing the key into the crank position just to see what would happen. still nothing.
____________________________
-Dan
20AUG08- crashed 99GSX
Worst day EVAR.
im assuming since you went over to chiefs yesterday and got all the nice battery stuff you did hook up that battery before attempting to listen to the 255 whining to verify the electrical? haha, at least thats something id forget.
im 99% sure that the only time you could actually hear my fuel pump was while the car was running. when i was doing alex's FP rewire i noticed his would come on with the key turned to accessory, i thought it was strange so i checked if mine did the same and of course it didn't. i pulled up his carpet and the previous owner did some gheddo FP rewire to the radio power? im sure you did the AWD FP wire correctly and if we can't get the FP to kick on maybe a wire got pulled loose on the FP rewire i did? i can bring some good meter leads up tuesday when i get back...
If you really want to check the FP without cranking, you can unbolt the CAS and spin it by hand. That will cause the ECU to kick on the fuel pump.
I'm sure I once saw a fuel pump test connection in the 1g harness, should be in the 2g harness as well. Check the factory wiring diagrams and I'm sure you'll find it. It is in the engine bay on the 1g.
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Nick - AWD turbo swapped USDM 7g Galant
I was going to wire this up today and noticed my 97 spyder wiring differs from the diagram here. The diagram lists a 2 pin and a 3 pin FWD connectors, My car has the 2 pin (black & black/blue wires) and a 8 pin connector utilizing 7 pins. Do I only use the 3 listed wire colors in the 8 pin connector? I also have 2 yellow/blue wires in said connector, one is thicker...which do I use to match the listed diagram.
Any idea what the functions of these other wires are? I read through this whole thread for searching sake but didnt come across this....Although I did read somthing about a purge selenoid...
Quote:
Originally Posted by daren_p
Did you figure this out? I just did my re-wire & didn't run into any issues. Your probably talking about the main harness connector? You don't need to worry about all the additional wires (leave connected as is, if you want to keep them functioning), their for ABS & possibly a pressure sensor. I left the large connector & just tapped into the required wires further down the line. I used Pauls drawing & had the factory wiring diagrams to compare & his drawing appears to be correct as far as I can tell.
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Yes, I did figure this out. When I sat in the car to really look over the connectors, I had realized that I was an idiot....I noticed that 4 of the wires in the connector in question has no pins on the mating connector. Once I noticed I had over looked that, I simpy over looked the unused wires and It was cut and dry.
Okay, another question here. I don't know if I just missed it somehow but what is the proper torque spec for the subframe mounting nuts? The only spec I came across was the fwd spec, which was 64 ft/lbs. I wasn't sure if it would be the same being the fwd subframe is metal to metal & the awd obviously has the bushings.
I finally gave it a test fire last night! Low gas light worked, gas gauge moved as I poured in some fuel (won't know about the other sender till I actually fill the tank), no leaks. Checked all gears & all 4 hubs spun! So just have to fab up the exhuast & waiting on a couple more small items to put everything back together. So hopfully will have it back on the road next weekish!
Still looking for that rear subframe torque specs?
Daren, I searched a few times through the manual and didn't find specific AWD specs either, so it's not just you. But in section 34-7 where it says 64 ft.lbs., the picture is showing a rear FWD subframe, but the picture also shows a driveshaft going to it. So my guess would be that the 64 ft.lbs. applies to both AWD and FWD. Hopefully somebody else has a real answer...
Thanks Eric, so atleast I'm not the only blind guy out there
I also noticed the rear diff show on the fwd subframe, so 64ft/lbs seems like a resonable torque spec for that location, so I'll probably go with that, unless someone tells me otherwise
Also Daren, what did you use to freshen up the underbody of your car?
Thats depends on which part exactly, the spare tire well is just some ruberized rocker guard from a company called Rust Check (company that does rust spray, not sure if their in the US). The subframe I painted with Rust Bullet which is an epoxy coating that is super tuff, its a silver colour so then sprayed it with Eastwoods Extreme satin chassis coating. Some of the pieces are new OEM & most of the suspension related components have been powder coated in satin black.
dan (sd_ff22) and I finally finished this last weekend and I couldn't be more happier, i can't even believe its the same car. Still working on some small bugs like getting the Speedo to work and the alignment where it needs to be. Mine definitely doesn't look as nice underneath as daren's but I don't think we could have done all that and complete it in two and a half weeks like we did either. Nice looking swap daren, just don't hit those dirt roads in Canada or it'll go back to looking like it did real fast.
Well I'm up & running now too Still have a few small things to take care of, but so far everything seems good. I do have a question about drivetrain noise though (thought best to ask hear, as were all use to a silent fwd). Under normal cruise & acceleration (haven't got on the throttle at all yet, as breaking in many parts) the car seems normal, no unexpected noise or vibrations but when I let off the gas (car still in gear, clutch released) I'am getting some noise that seems to be coming from the rear. When you put the clutch in, the noise isn't there. I'll have to confirm but I think I'm getting some descent noise when in reverse as well (not sure if that normal at slow speeds as well?)
The car does have new tranny, rebuilt transfercase, rebuilt rear diff & new Ujoints. So I wasn't sure if maybe things had to break in abit? Also my stock rubber rear diff bushings have been replaced with the UMS urthane bushings, so I would imagine I will get more noise/vibrations vs a stock setup, though like I say sounds pretty quiet under normal driving (well quiet enough that its drownd out by the exhaust )
Guys,
I have two questions when it comes to wiring the fuel pump / fuel gauge senders.
I've wired up the floats so that they work and everything matches up (ohm wise) so it looks like I should be good. However I have two wires left over from the AWD SUB sender - one yellow/blue and one yellow/black. According the the wiring diagrams, it appears these are the for the level switch. What's the level switch for and how do I wire it up into my FWD?
Here's my rendering of how I have everything wired up (so far)
2) On the AWD Main sender/pump, there's a thing called a "THERMISTOR". What's that for? I'm thinking it causes the low fuel light to come on, but not sure. If I'm correct with my assumption, do I have to wire anything differently to ensure my low fuel light comes on??
Ran out of fuel the other day...no low fuel light. Any Ideas? Wired per diagram
Also while im here, have any of you guys experieced this?
I noticed a vibration while driving the car a couple days ago, since then, it seems to have gotten worse. Im still new to AWD (recently swapped) so im not exactly sure where to look or how to diagnose this issue...
It almost feels like its coming from the area under the shifter area or possibly further back but im not sure. I feel it while accelerating and on decel, most noticable on decel from a higher rpm (5k). I dont feel or hear it as much or at all when acclerating under alot of load. It doesnt seem to be RPM or gear specific and I dont hear any odd noises when engaging a gear (R or 1st) from a stop. I did notice that if I release the clutch quickly at lower speeds, I occasionally hear a metallic clunk and feel a shake/rocking from the drivetrain.
I jacked the car up to make sure the carrier bearing brackets and rear were'nt coming loose and they're pretty tight. I checked the play in the drivshaft and it feels soft on the carrier bearing closest to the rear which may be the issue. I cant find any markings in the exhaust to point the finger at for rubbing either.
What are the most common vibration problems on the 2g AWD setups?
What should I check?
How should I check the U-Joints, and carrier bearings?
Possible t-case, drive-shaft, or rear issue?
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What year is your Spyder ('97?) and what year did you take the donor tank from? I've recently learned that there's minor different wiring from a '95 AWD Tank vs a '97 AWD Tank. I can't comment on other years cause I've only ever compared a '95 and '97
What year is your Spyder ('97?) and what year did you take the donor tank from? I've recently learned that there's minor different wiring from a '95 AWD Tank vs a '97 AWD Tank. I can't comment on other years cause I've only ever compared a '95 and '97
Yes, My car is a 97 and everything used was out of a early model 95
assault187, Since your Spyder is a '97 and your donor is a '95, the wiring diagram posted earlier in this thread (and on the VAFQ) should work. Maybe you have a bad THERMISTOR? There's a way to test this part using a test light and a battery - pretty simple test (page 446 (54-23) of the '97 Electrical Service Manual. It'll take 1-2 mins for the test light to illuminate so be patience. If the test light doesn't illuminate then this part is probably bad thus why the low level light does not come on.
'97's (maybe 98 & 99?) have a THERMISTOR and a LEVEL SWITCH thus why the sub assembly (driver's side) had 2 extra wires for the LEVEL SWITCH. In order to wire a '97+ AWD tank into a FWD (mine being a '97 Spyder), here's what I had to do (special thanks to Dave @ DSMLINK for helping me out)
I can comment on your driveline issues as I have not completed my swap yet
On a side note - did you notice any slack in the rear corners of fuel tank straps like I'm having? I think is because Spyder's don't have these "humps" (as seen circled in red) thus there's nothing directly above the tank forcing it down. Thoughts / Ideas on how to make the tank straps more secure?
Some of those colors of wires aren't the same as mine, My parts are both from 2ga talons...interesting. I think i got it wired right though. What do i do about teh grey/red wire and the other ones from the GST harness, is that just abs hookups?
![AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]](/forums/iconimages/drivetrain-tech/awd-conversion-swap-guys-enter-here-advanced-merged-2-07-a_ltr.gif)
maybe. 
haha, at least thats something id forget. 
im sure you did the AWD FP wire correctly and if we can't get the FP to kick on maybe a wire got pulled loose on the FP rewire i did? i can bring some good meter leads up tuesday when i get back... 
AWD manual swap COMPLETE 
Still have a few small things to take care of, but so far everything seems good. I do have a question about drivetrain noise though (thought best to ask hear, as were all use to a silent fwd). Under normal cruise & acceleration (haven't got on the throttle at all yet, as breaking in many parts) the car seems normal, no unexpected noise or vibrations but when I let off the gas (car still in gear, clutch released) I'am getting some noise that seems to be coming from the rear. When you put the clutch in, the noise isn't there. I'll have to confirm but I think I'm getting some descent noise when in reverse as well (not sure if that normal at slow speeds as well?)
