I built my awd spyder about 2 years ago and the gas gauge has never worked right. When its full, it reads about 3/4 of a tank but from there on it works normal. I dont let it bother me. I fill it up and wait for the light to come on and fill it up again.
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im just starting my awd swap and I had 2 questions... probably many more to come...
do the shifter cables line right up for both trannies...
I was told the slave cylinders are different, Im pretty sure they are the same but just wanted to make sure
Im acually just going to swap the front ends of the two cars tomorrow I think its gonna be pretty easy, I can do an AWD clutch in 2-3 hrs
im just starting my awd swap and I had 2 questions... probably many more to come...
do the shifter cables line right up for both trannies...
I was told the slave cylinders are different, Im pretty sure they are the same but just wanted to make sure
Im acually just going to swap the front ends of the two cars tomorrow I think its gonna be pretty easy, I can do an AWD clutch in 2-3 hrs
The shifer cables should line up just fine. The mounting locations are the exact same for the two transmissions.
The slave cylinder from the FWD will also work on the AWD. Plan on adjusting the pedal freeplay (duh), but other than that you shouldn't have any problems with it.
ok.... so I am doing an AWD conversion, and Im also converting my donor car to FWD so I can sell it!!!! I wanna break even on this... so far Ive stripped down my FWD car and have the AWD car ready to get torn apart.
1)I can see that the subfram bolts have a lot of support in the frme with that long cylinder it goes though and is welded on bolt sides... Am I OK just dropping a short bolt down there or do I need to weld the bolt to both sides.
2)For the AWD gas tank front bolts the one toward the front of the car. Am I ok cutting a hole in the fame slipping a bolt down there and pulling it though the hole to bolt the strap to.
Ok you can see Im parinoid about support I want my car and the donor car to be sold after this is done.
O and I had an inquiry, Instead of taking off the brake line and taking off the ebrake cable I just disasembled it and left it hanging ... This saves SOOOO much time I wont have to bleed the breaks or hunt for the Ebrake cable and unbolt it from inside the car!!!
So I finally finished rebuilding the rear end that I bought. Bought an LSD the donor did not have one. and replaced two lower control arms, a number of bolts, sanded, treated and painted.
The next thing I am going to do is get the tranny rebuilt and make sure I have all required parts.
Here is the Question:
In another thread I read that the starter plate from a GST does not work with with the GSX tranny.
Is this true also on 2g's?
I did not get a plate with the shell I bought and can not find it in CAPS. Just exactly what do I need to fit the starter on?
EDIT - FOR CLARIFICATION
The plate mentioned is nothing but a dust cover between the tranny and the engine, the mount holes for the starter are fixed in the bell housing. Remove the dust plate and lay it on your AWD tranny bell housing to see what has to be cut. Not only does one screw hole need to be slotted but the big hole for the starter has to be opened up toward the drive shaft.
You can re-use your FWD starter.
Yea i just finished this.. AWD IS AWESOME!!!! O and the starter plate... you can grind the hole closest to the front of the car out and the starter will fit fine... I finished everything and found out i needed the other plate, it was an easy fix. the plate I think is part number MD167356 but dont worry about it grinding it worked perfect!
Yea i just finished this.. AWD IS AWESOME!!!! O and the starter plate... you can grind the hole closest to the front of the car out and the starter will fit fine... I finished everything and found out i needed the other plate, it was an easy fix. the plate I think is part number MD167356 but dont worry about it grinding it worked perfect!
Is the GSX flywheeel smaller or larger than the GST flywheel?
I'll be starting this process in the next couple of weeks. We are going to strip everything we need from the parts car on the first day. We'll get everything lined out and hopefully have all the rear end stuff swapped out in a day's time. I picked up a running car (but rusted through shock tower) so I should have everyting I can't imagine what this car is going to be like.
Hopefully this is my last question before I actually start stripping my Spyder.
I have the rear end completely rebuilt and painted, should be getting my awd tranny back from Shep's next week. I still need exhaust and front axles.
So here's the question - I went searching online for axles, according to "thepartsbin.com" AWD & FWD manual turbo axles are the same part number.
anyone tried their original axles?
Other sites have different part number for AWD, FWD and Spyders.
So if there are separate part numbers for Spyders, what axles do I need for an AWD Spyder?
nice pics... i got like 40 or so pics of my AWD conversion i was going to make a tech article on it when I get some time. What is that neutral safty switch thing he had a picture of, is he automatic or something I didnt do that
Finally started mine - last weekend I stripped the GST stuff off. This weekend I started the cutting and fabricating. I printed out all of the pics from the above mentioned link of Jay's conversion. Everything was going well until I got to the point where you install the front gst bolt for the gsx rear carrier. If you look at the pic's that Jay did of his spyder conversion, he cut a hole in the frame to insert the bolt, that is what I was planning on doing. One major snafu - on my passenger side where you would cut the hole there was a cluster of steel brake and fuel lines - did not think I could move them easily. Second snafu - again looking at Jay's picture, where he cut the hole is low on the frame and there is a heavy duty frame reinforcement welded inside the frame at that point, look closely at the spot welds. I did not want to cut out the much reinforcement.
After staring and poking and probing for a couple hours, here is the solution that I came up with. I drill three large holes on the outside of the frame and used a sawzall to cut between them. After the bolt was installed I drilled a hole and inserted a bolt which was tack welded to hold the bolt inside, down. I then welded a cover plate/reinfocement back over the hole.
y didnt you just come from the top and not cut any renforcement?
yup the bolt for a GST is a lot easier to get to.
Spyders have a large welded in bracket for the convertible top mechanism. I looked long and hard at it, you just about have to pull all of the mechanism, the boot and then using a long extension, you "might" be able to cut from the top.
But thanks for the pic - best shot of bolt location I've seen.
one minor edit - get a "mechanical finger" used to pick up dropped things in tight spots. Using one of these I was able to insert all but one of the new gas tank bolts. The one hole that I had to cut, was passenger side front.
For time to complete, I am not fast, and have about 80 hours into right now. This time includes adding cams, walbro 255, afpr, e3 exhaust manifold and new carpet. About the only things left are to put intake and radiator back in, bleed brakes and clutch, install exhaust.
Plus the time it took to clean up the donor parts which were covered with rust - about another 50-60 hours
yea its easy... thats about it... you will see the new place it bolts up to when your down there... not 100% fit but it will slip over a stud and you just thread a nut behind it. You will know it when you see it
I just wanted to check back to this thread and see how it was going with the latest AWD swappers. I looked at that vfaq, and cringed when I saw one thing in particular:
When prepping the underbody of the car to weld on the carrier bearing brackets, do NOT undercoat anywhere near where you are about to weld. The undercoating near the welds will burn off when welding, can contaminate the weld, and will offer no corrosion protection. Instead, grind all the paint off in a strip about 3cm wide where your spotwelds will be. This will ensure a proper surface to weld on to. Next grind all the paint off of the face of the brackets that you will be welding underneath the car. Then prime all metal surfaces with weld-through primer. Weld through primer is made with zinc, and will not contaminate your weld, or burn off. Instead, it will allow you to weld clean, while protecting the otherwise bare metal surfaces that are touching. This is important as it is easy for moisture to collect here. After your piece is welded on, then you can go about undercoating/painting, or otherwise applying whatever substance you want to beautify/protect.
For those of you who will read this and say, "Well I didn't use weld-through primer, and my brackets are fine," you are right; I am sure they are OK. The time it would take for the use of weldthrough primer (or lack thereof) to become evident, is probably longer than you will own the vehicle. However, when spotwelding pieces like this together, it is just very bad practice to not use weld-through primer. It costs about $5, and is available at some/most auto parts stores and welding supply stores. When spending all this time on an AWD swap, do it right. Your welds will turn out cleaner, stronger, and will resist corrosion a lot longer.
Another thing I would like to add from my experience swapping a spyder: when cutting into the framerail like the guy did in the vfaq, I would advise against using a holesaw like that, and then welding that plate over. Instead, cut a little 'trap door' on the rail, and then put the new bolt in. Additionally, if you looked at my pictures, the large, thick, square washers work great for added strength, and will prevent the bolt from spinning. Weld a similar tab in if you would like to prevent the bolt from going up too far into the frame. If you did this carefully, you will be able to close the framerail back up, and repair it 'good as new'. It will be both strong, and look great.
![AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]](/forums/iconimages/drivetrain-tech/awd-conversion-swap-guys-enter-here-advanced-merged-2-07-a_ltr.gif)
I can't imagine what this car is going to be like.
