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Quick question after 2600 break in...

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Eric_7810

15+ Year Contributor
112
3
Nov 17, 2004
Byron Center, Michigan
Hey guys, just need your opinion. I replaced my tranny in my 91Tsi about 5k miles ago. I installed an ACT2600 with it and after it was all put together it worked perfectly.

Well, now after 5k miles, and 183,000 on the clock, the clutch is gradually disengaging less and less. With the pedal floored it acts like its disengaged like 80%. My synchros are taking a beating when I don't pay attention, and I need to double clutch it into 2nd for a smooth shift. Is it the clutch fork that was worn out by the 2600? What do you guys think?

I cant stand grinding a synchro in public :tease:
 
No kidding buddy! Thanks for your advice!

What I'm going to do is just buy a new fork for now, the tranny is going to have to come out anyway, but guys the main thing I'm wondering, aside from what I mentioned, and 92awd thanks, is what normally causes a clutch to not fully disengage when a pedal is floored? Its just at that point where it just not.. quite.. fully disengaged, and its getting worse gradually.

What directly causes it? Any help is appreciated guys thanks.
 
Eric_7810 said:
No kidding buddy! Thanks for your advice!

What I'm going to do is just buy a new fork for now, the tranny is going to have to come out anyway, but guys the main thing I'm wondering, aside from what I mentioned, and 92awd thanks, is what normally causes a clutch to not fully disengage when a pedal is floored? Its just at that point where it just not.. quite.. fully disengaged, but its getting worse gradually.

What directly causes it? Any help is appreciated guys thanks.

It could be any one or a combination of all the things Ive mentioned. First, check around the slave cylinder and master cylinder for any fluid leaks. If you find one, that could be part of the problem. Rebleed the clutch and see if it helps. If so, that would lead you to replacing the master and slave cylinder.

Check the pedal assembly for excess play. The link I gave above tells you what to look for. If that is the problem, you need to either replace the pedal assembly or weld the linkage at the top of the pedal.

As for the rubber clutch line, it can swell from the extra pressure of the 2600 and cause inconsistent clutch pedal. It is highly recommended to replace with a braided line when installing the 2600.

I doubt that the clutch fork is your problem. If it was, the problem should have started when the clutch was installed. They dont wear that quickly and I dont think pulling the tranny to replace the fork will cure your problem.
 
Alright 92, thanks for your help I appreciate it. I'm going to look over the whole hydraulic system if thats the case.
 
I was on my way back from class last night after making those posts, its to the point now where I cant drive it. I was at a stop light and it turned green and I couln't get it into 1st. I just woke up I'm gonna go outside and see wtf I can find out. Basically I am pist, not only b/c of my car, but its SNOWING.

btw, I am on extremepsi.com looking for parts and I found the braided line, I'll pick that up. What about the Slave cylinder extension rod? Never heard of it but the description says it is a must after installing an ACT b/c the OEM doesnt fully disengage?
 
The slave cylinder extension rod can be found at Slowboyracing under their driveline parts. Not sure of anywhere else.

Would you guys reccomend a rebuild kit (for the slave cylinder and master cylinder) from NAPA or Autozone for the guy?
 
My only experience with a rebuild kit (from a dealer!) didn’t pan out very good… My master cylinder lasted about a week :(. Get the new/rebuilt parts from your local autoparts store. I found that those non-OEM parts are cheap and work just fine.

Eric, the fact that your clutch is failing so quickly, suggests that it is a hydraulic issue. Which is good, because it is much easier to replace the master and/or slave cylinder than the clutch pedal assembly.
 
I've had great success with rebuild kits. Recently, I have installed rebuild kits on my steering rack and on a clutch master cylinder.

http://www.rockauto.com is great for finding stuff like this and at good prices.

Eric_7810, please listen to these guys so you don't kill your transmission, if you haven't already. Inspect your pedal assembly and check for leaks at the master and slave cylinder and properly bleed the system before anything else.
 
Thanks guys, I read that when you replace one of the cylinders, you should do both of them. Well last year I replaced my slave b/c it was toast, but left the master.

Just got back from the garage and everything LOOKS solid and the fluid level is topped off. I am going to replace the master cylinder though I dont even care. I figure I should just replace everything here with the hydraulics.

I dont know, I'm a noob when it comes to the hydraulics of a clutch, never dealt with it before. When a master cylinder is shot, is it obvious when you look at it from under the hood or what types of signs do I look for. Will there be a leak on the cylinder itself or could it possibly just be something internal that went bad b/c I have no leaks from what I could tell. Huge thanks again guys
 
If the hydraulics check out fine, could it be a spring from the clutch disc coming off? I had a similar exp. with a prior car, and if I remember correctly this is a known problem with the 2600.
 
Replaced master cylinder = problem solved. I can finally feel the power of the 2600, I stalled it first time backing it out of the garage.:tease: THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR HELP!

:thumb:
 
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