What to change while changing clutch?

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Well I have my new clutch almost completly pieced together here. A 2600 PP with a clutch net 6 puck E-Z lock sprung disk, and a Fidanza Flywheel. New TOB, Pivot ball and cluth fork.

My question is what around the tranny should I do? I have a new oil pan gasket to go on. I have a new fuel filter. What else while Im around there? Thanks in advance.
-Matt

Im changing Gear oil and motor oil as well. My 18G is going on at the same time.

 

[GSX93DSM]

Double check your rear main seal and see if it is ok.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Double check your rear main seal and see if it is ok.

Ill probably just pick one up then, Thanks. What else guys?

 

[92awddsm]

Rear main seal and possibly axle seals while you are there.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Rear main seal and possibly axle seals while you are there.

Those are pretty new and the motor only has 11K, im wondering if he changed the rear main seal. Probably, but it cant hurt, right.

 

[92awddsm]

Those are pretty new and the motor only has 11K, im wondering if he changed the rear main seal. Probably, but it cant hurt, right.

I would hope the rear seal was changed when the engine was rebuilt. If not, you have the wrong person doing engine work.

If it only has 11k miles, I wouldnt even touch it unless it is leaking. Just look for oil seepage when you remove the flywheel. If none is present, dont touch it. Why take a chance of developing a leak while trying to fix a leak that doesnt exist yet?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I would hope the rear seal was changed when the engine was rebuilt. If not, you have the wrong person doing engine work.

If it only has 11k miles, I wouldnt even touch it unless it is leaking. Just look for oil seepage when you remove the flywheel. If none is present, dont touch it. Why take a chance of developing a leak while trying to fix a leak that doesnt exist yet?

Got ya, and yea I bough it with the stock rebuild-balance shafts. The exact stuff is in my profile. I am leaking oil from somewhere, hence the gasket I bought. Im just assuming its the oil pan gasket.

Also what do you think of that FP flywheel bolt kit? Worth it? Im really undecided on this. I could just ober torque to 100lbs, but Ill have to read more about the subject

 

[92awddsm]

Got ya, and yea I bough it with the stock rebuild-balance shafts. The exact stuff is in my profile. I am leaking oil from somewhere, hence the gasket I bought. Im just assuming its the oil pan gasket.

Also what do you think of that FP flywheel bolt kit? Worth it? Im really undecided on this. I could just ober torque to 100lbs, but Ill have to read more about the subject

I highly suggest getting the fp install kit. The fidanza flywheel is thicker in the crank flange area than a stock flywheel so the stock bolts have less thread engagement than what they really need. The fp kit also incldes the steel outer bolt ring to prevent the heads of the bolts from eating into the flywheel surface. It works the same as a flat washer but stock bolts arent long enough to run a flat washer on. Some people say that the kit isnt needed but I personally prefer to spend the extra $45 as added insurence. I surely wouldnt want to have to redo it because of some bolts that I should have replaced to begin with. And to completely put things into perspective, bolts that are stressed as much as flywheel bolts should be replaced with new periodically.

As for the pp stud kit in the fp kit, it works well but you need to bottom tap the holes in the flywheel. If not, the studs wont screw all the way in thus preventing the pp from tightening completely against the flywheel step.

Regardless of what bolts you use for the flywheel, make sure to use red loktite and torque to factory specs.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I highly suggest getting the fp install kit. The fidanza flywheel is thicker in the crank flange area than a stock flywheel so the stock bolts have less thread engagement than what they really need. The fp kit also incldes the steel outer bolt ring to prevent the heads of the bolts from eating into the flywheel surface. It works the same as a flat washer but stock bolts arent long enough to run a flat washer on. Some people say that the kit isnt needed but I personally prefer to spend the extra $45 as added insurence. I surely wouldnt want to have to redo it because of some bolts that I should have replaced to begin with. And to completely put things into perspective, bolts that are stressed as much as flywheel bolts should be replaced with new periodically.

As for the pp stud kit in the fp kit, it works well but you need to bottom tap the holes in the flywheel. If not, the studs wont screw all the way in thus preventing the pp from tightening completely against the flywheel step.

Regardless of what bolts you use for the flywheel, make sure to use red loktite and torque to factory specs.

Got the loctite, red. Ill order the bolts tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

 

[elfroggo]

A new stiffer clutch has possibility of busting your master or slave clutch cylinders

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

A new stiffer clutch has possibility of busting your master or slave clutch cylinders

Opps forgot to say I got a new slave cylinder not to long ago, Not the master though. I wait to see if it goes, although I hope not.

 

[allgripnoslip]

How weird, I have the same exact set up going into mine as well ( act 2600 pp, clutchnet 6 puck sprung disc and fidanza flywheel) Let me know how this works out for you.