The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

HELP! Clutch or Shifting Problems?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jhoe

20+ Year Contributor
90
1
Aug 18, 2002
St. Louis, Missouri
Hey,
Things that have been done to the car so far...
3" downpipe with exhuast...
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Was running 15lbs boost when the problem occured, was in the green (rich) constantly NEVER lean.
1993 Eaglon Talon TSi AWD

My car is undrivable right now...I can't shift in any gear with the car started. Problems and symtoms as follows:


-Can move shift lever into any gear with the motor off
-With the clutch depressed and the motor running I cannot shift into any gear, can only get 5th and reverse to grind...
-Can start car with the gear in first but clutch is ingauged slightly and smokes
-We have adjusted the clutch pedal from the floor to the top
-The recommened height on the clutch is 7inches, but i can only get 6 1/2inchs off the floor
-Adjusted free play from zero (none) to the floor
-Slave (release cylinder) appears fine, no oil leaking, and moves...
-Clutch master clyinder lines were full of crap so we bled them until clear fluid came out
-New stock clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing installed this summer, by someone else I did not install it, so basically I dont know the quality of the install.
-When starting the car inreverse, I have to give it gas to keep it from dying, even with the clutch pressed to the floor
-The clutch master cylinder appears to be leaking inside slightly along the Pushrod that attaches to the clutch pedal

Could the master cylinder be blown?
Could the fly wheel be loose?
Air still in the lines?
How far should a slave cylinder come out?
This process occured over about 1-3 days...
Could the fork be bent (I pulled the boot back and it looks OK)?
Do the shifter cables need readjusting?

Help, any ideas before I have to drop the tranny?

Thanks!
 
Flashback for me my friend. First thing I noticed after buying my talon was that the shift linkage had only one bolt holding it on and it was moving freely. Yours sounds like a combination of problems. If the clutch cylinder is leaking, you will have to rebuild/replace it. I suggest replacing it because the warranty is lifetime. There is a core charge.
Unfortunatly even with my suggestions I feel that your problems are not going to be totally fixed w/ the clutch. Either your shift fork is worn, the pressure plate fingers are worn, or the the clutch pivot ball is worn. Try my first few suggestions, see if that fixes it. If not what you will need to do is drop the tranny and find what is worn. Either way PLEASE GOD put two lock washers behind the clutch pivot ball and screw it back down so that the ball extends out farther and gives you a better clutch engagement point at the pedal. (Rather than right off the floor).

If you find that the linkage is loose under the hood, then tighten it back down. Now, under the console see if the bushings are hosed on the shifter assembly. If so replace them with lockwashers. (Be very careful the shifter assembly hold down bolts are Grade C for Cheese strength. I snapped one off and had to use an EZ out.) Once you have replaced those bushing take one shift linkage arm off of the shifter while in neutral. With it completely disconnected see if it still lines up with the shaft. If not then you need to adjust the length of the cable using the two wrenches. Once you look at it you will know what I am talking about. Regardless if none of this fixes your problem it was probably things that needed to be done anyway.

The last thing I can think of is the clutch pedal assembly. If you depress the pedal all the way to the floor and then let back up, reach the toe of your shoe under the pedal and lift. If it moves even a half an inch then the assembly is worn. It can be welded solid, or you can replace it. here is the instructions on how to weld it.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htm

Sorry about the long post but I wanted to make sure I covered all ground. If none of the above fix anything what so ever then you need to rebuild the transmission or your differential or transfer case is locked up. (hence the having to give it gas to keep it from dying while in reverse)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top