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exedy clutch?

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I just got the stock replaced with the Exeddy. Not bad. It is a good clutch but it is not for racing. It will run you about $138 + shipping from www.clutchmasters.com. Great shop, I would suggest you get in touch with them and tell them how you drive. They will tell you the deal on what clutch is good. If you want to race then you should go I believe with the ACT 2100 or 2600. There is another that is good but I can't remember which one. But then you are talkin' I think $350 or higher. I went with the Exeddy because I was pinching pennies. It is, I believe, 40% over OEM and I am just a daily driver. No track or street racing. Get on it once in a while but nothing major. Best bang for the buck in my catagory. Any other inputs?
 
I got the Exedy 3 puck racing clutch w/ 60% over stock pressure plate about a month ago. At first it chattered excessively, but that went away after a while. However, a few track days, and the pedal engagement point (friction point) moved all the way up to the top, it chatters like crazy (undrivable), and I adjusted it as far as it would go & still it won't hold when i step on it in any gear above 1st (just revs & no go). I thought a 3 puck would hold power...but it didn't even last as long as my stock clutch. Maybe there is something else wrong, but I doubt it. I'm having it looked at tomorrow and I'll post what they find.
 
Shop took off the inspection plate. Found chunks of cerametallic clutch broken off, and I've had the thing for a whole month. OK no more experimenting, it's going to cost me an extra:

new ACT 2600 w/ street disk: $400
resurface flywheel: $50
clutch installation labor: $200
-----------------------------------------------
Grand Total: $650

Add that to the $350 for the old Exedy setup, $200 for a new flywheel, $200 for labor, for a total of $750, add that to my new expenses, that's one god damn expensive clutch job at $1,400.

I could have 2 Lancer Evos for how much I have been paying per month in maintenance lately :mad:
 
You know what? I've had the same problem about a year ago. When I had my '95 TSI AWD, I had bought a clutch kit off ebay a while back. Well, it drove good for about 15 mins, but as soon as I got the car up to normal operating temperatures, it started to slip.... I brought it back in, and they did some adjustments on it, and brought it home. Next day... SAME THING happened. The clutch place determined it to be something was improperly machined (can't remember what), and that certain kits tended to do this on DSM's (fukkin lie, I know it).

From there... I was like, "Where do we go from here?" He goes, well, it was your part, so I can't guarantee anything we've done for you. Ended up dropping another $600 for a new clutch and labor. Ended up coming to roughly a $1000, NOT including the original clutch I provided... It was all downhill from there.
 
they told u certain clutch kits caused that problem cause its somewhat true, but its not the clutch directly thats at fault, when ur clutch was installed did they remove the hydrolic restrictor from ur clutch line? if they didnt then there is a good chance thats what causes the problem, or if u didnt get ur flywheel resusfaced properly that could be it too
clutchmasters sends a disclaimer with instructions on how to remove the restristcor with every clutch iv ever seen that came from them(but they were all stage 3 clutches), it clearly says there is a pretty high chance of causing any number of several different problems if u dont remove it
i dont know where u got ur clutch installed or if they removed the buffer or not, but if they didnt i would call them and talk to the owner and tell him if they knew what they were doing the restrictor would have been removed, so they should pay for ur losses cause their error in not installing it correctly caused the problem, but they will probally still blame it on the flywheel surface not being machined properly, if u dont get the flywheel resurfaced when replacing a clutch it cant bond properly and any clutch will slip no matter how well it was installed
 
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