Well I guess I need to weigh my car then cause what I did was put in about 2800 for stock and then I came up with 460 class of chute. I went straight to Stroud Saftey's site and that's a pro stock level chute and the mini is on there but it's like 3 classes smaller then I would need. I have a lot of weight reduction though so I would need to be at 2200 pounds about according to this chart to only need a mini chute. I'm gonna contact summit and ask them because I need to exchange my kirkey seat cover for a bigger size. My gf tried but you know how girls are with buying car parts.
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Well I guess I need to weigh my car then cause what I did was put in about 2800 for stock and then I came up with 460 class of chute. I went straight to Stroud Saftey's site and that's a pro stock level chute and the mini is on there but it's like 3 classes smaller then I would need. I have a lot of weight reduction though so I would need to be at 2200 pounds about according to this chart to only need a mini chute. I'm gonna contact summit and ask them because I need to exchange my kirkey seat cover for a bigger size. My gf tried but you know how girls are with buying car parts.
Slippi -- contact Stroud directly to get the chute tailored to your application -- their chart on the website is not made for our type of application -- as I am expecting to do 160mph, and be around 3000-3200# -- that gives me a 495+ for a rating -- resulting in the use of an Alcohol funny car chute -- which is not likely.
The Stroud chutes are really nice, and the Super Gas chute is likely what you would be recommended to run. The Pro Stock chute should be more than plenty.
The Stroud chutes do require a little more parachute mounting bracketry to be installed vs. a Simpson cross form chute, but they are extremely stable chutes when they are released due to their chute design and mount design.
As well, you need to run a full size chute -- NOT a mini chute -- and yes, I know how much the cost difference is. Expect to be spending 350-600 for the chute, bracketry, release cable, and hardware. It isn't cheap, and you will understand that when it comes to having to pay for all the safety stuff to go as fast as you are looking to go.
Wait on the cage padding until after your cage is completed , and the interior is in its final stages, as you will will need to make custom bracketry to run the Kirkey seats. Personally, I though the seats were way lighter than 13# (I guess I will have to go and weigh the ones I have here -- same P/N as yours).
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Tim Zimmer
2.3L, BW475, AEM, etc.
Slippi -- contact Stroud directly to get the chute tailored to your application -- their chart on the website is not made for our type of application -- as I am expecting to do 160mph, and be around 3000-3200# -- that gives me a 495+ for a rating -- resulting in the use of an Alcohol funny car chute -- which is not likely.
The Stroud chutes are really nice, and the Super Gas chute is likely what you would be recommended to run. The Pro Stock chute should be more than plenty.
The Stroud chutes do require a little more parachute mounting bracketry to be installed vs. a Simpson cross form chute, but they are extremely stable chutes when they are released due to their chute design and mount design.
I just got off the phone with summit tech line and I'm gonna go with a 10ft simpson. they're a lot of money for a chute but it is what it is. No compramises. My main concern is locking down this build mkaer deal that would put me on the fast track to getting this thing moving.
Edit: Yeah those seats aren't as light as people think. You have to have a sturdy seat that's strong before light and I think that was kirkey's idea too. It' lighter than any otehr type of seat except a CF seat which I'm thinking about getting anyway because I might put two in to make it a little more streetable without putting to much weight back in. My cae is already done and the kirkey seat won't affect where the padding goes as I can place it in where it's going and see which parts of the cage need to be padded but just the seat is next up on the to do list anyway so it will natrually get done first anyway.
I was bored last night and had some VHT left from my manifold and hotside coating so I did my fuel rail. I did a lighter coat as I only want to keep heat away not in as extreme as the turbo system. I may do one more coat though but it looks good for now.
You know your supposed to bake the mani for it to work. The metal has to be prepped, then 2000 degree primer then 2000 paint, then let dry for an hour, then baked for 30 mins at 250, they take out let cool for 30 min, then back in the oven for 30 min at 400, then let cool, then 30 min at 600. If you dont it will flake off and wont be chemical resistant.
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BLACKBIRDSM HX40 2500lbs BFG drags 10.50s or BUST!
You know your supposed to bake the mani for it to work. The metal has to be prepped, then 2000 degree primer then 2000 paint, then let dry for an hour, then baked for 30 mins at 250, they take out let cool for 30 min, then back in the oven for 30 min at 400, then let cool, then 30 min at 600. If you dont it will flake off and wont be chemical resistant.
I did bake it. I just posted pictures here but in the link forum I posted the complete install with pictures. I used VHT Flame proof ceramic coating. Here's some pics of the can
And to doing the fuel rail I will be running the car to 9.5k and hopefully making over 700whp and I would rather over build than under build. I know it may not get that hot but now it will get less hot meaning less heat soak
I didnt mean it like that, i meant that it wont matter if you bake it because it wont get too hot so you dont have to.
True but VHT said(I called them before I did my manifold for pointers) the coating does not get it's true strength OR heat deterrent advantages until cooked onto the metal. So even though it won't chip it also won't keep the heat away as good until you cook it on.
Well two things to update everyone on today. My HX52 after closer observation and being bored as my clear coat still hasn't been done yet by my one hook up(you can't complain when it's free though) had a little too much play. It doesn't touch the wall and never has but still it's just enough to make me go hmm. So I just picked up a rebuild kit from goldfarb for 75 shipped and I'm gonna have golden state diesel rebuild it. I also sent Paul my payment for the first batch of his front tubular support bar. I will have pictures as soon as everything gets in.
More pics por favor. and how about a purple engine?
Naw i'll leave that to you but I might have to throw some gf pics in there to up my viewing total like you did lol.
Yeah it's def good to see things slowly start to come together. I"m gonna wait till friday to start getting up my painters ass like come on man. Once I get the car back the seat will go in as I found out you don't have to weld it in you can bolt it in. I'm gonna get two brackets welded to the seat then get bolt the kirkey brackets that came with the seat to the floor and then to the brackets on the seat. Then I will pick up roll bar padding and put my wheel on and what not. I'm trying to do all the safety stuff and things you don't want to do as much because I know if I just throw a engine in I'll be like ehh I don't need that other crap lol even though I know I do.
One thing maybe some other kirkey guys can chime in how the hell are you supposed to mount this bracket? I figure it's to mount to the bar but kirkey isn't the best with pictures or install hints.
Christmas came late this year. I got into a fender bender in my jeep and the I quoted everything out to like 5-600 for parts and I was debating on reporting it or not. I said #### it I haven't been in a accident for a while. These characters quoted everything at 2200 - 500 which is the deductible = $1700 check to fix maybe 5-$600 job : )
Picked up my short block today. I will be tearing it down then sending it out to be cleaned honed and assembled as soon as I pick up my aluminum rods and 1400 pistons. I also got a steal on EMS for 800 with 5 bar map sensor and IAT so that is on the way. I picked up a valve cover with welded in -10 lines and catch can assembly off the link forums. Last but not least my hx52 rebuild kit came in today and Garden State Diesel will be rebuilding it so that I know it's ready for 45psi when this is all together. As soon as I get my hands on stuff pictures will go right up
After checking out Magnus's site and pricing out how much my fuel setup was going to cost me I'm gonna go with there mechanical fuel pump solution they use on their race cars where it mounts to the head and runs a mechanical pump at 1/2 engine speed. It will support 2000hp and eliminates the need for wiring relays and I may even throw around the idea of a engine mounted fuel supply like Shep but the kicker with that is I would be limiting the cars driving distance as I could maybe get a 5gal max cell in the engine bay.
That is the goal too that a regular guy can build a fast car...hopefully lol
