Its a Air to Water Intercooler . it uses water for the cooling instead of air . Good for drag cars because you can run Ice water and get your Intake temps below ambient temp.
I know this a little old but it's not a air to water IC that would be using air to cool water this is a water to air IC
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that is code word for "i get the hook up on everything"...hahah im still watching the build man...cant wait until you strap it back down on the dyno...
-wes
OK, so a little up date on the car. We got her all back together today and back on the dyno for a little while. We put her on at about 4:30. Running off of wastegate ~22psi she made 409.2whp on our dyno. Were really not impressed sad to say. The car is still losing tq around 6200rpm, just not as much ~90-100 lb/ft by 9000rpm. Is there anyone with a 42R car that has low boost #'s (22-25psi)? With a dyno sheet to see tq. Were racking our brains trying every possible reason for the, what seems like no power. We still have the BC 280's to put in. We were running my HKS 272's from last year (my 10.0 sec 35R set up) as well as the Polk head from last year also. The motor is in tip top shape 157-162 comp across all cylinders. No manifold back pressure issues, no crank case evac issues. Intake air temp is still around 70 degrees. So needless to say, were stumped. Tomorrow well swap cams and see if that helps and turn up the boost a little and see how she reacts. At this point thats all we can do. But like I said earlier, if anyone has a dyno sheet of there 42R on 22-24psi, can you please post it up or post up a link. Thanks.
OK, so a little up date on the car. We got her all back together today and back on the dyno for a little while. We put her on at about 4:30. Running off of wastegate ~22psi she made 409.2whp on our dyno. Were really not impressed sad to say. The car is still losing tq around 6200rpm, just not as much ~90-100 lb/ft by 9000rpm. Is there anyone with a 42R car that has low boost #'s (22-25psi)? With a dyno sheet to see tq. Were racking our brains trying every possible reason for the, what seems like no power. We still have the BC 280's to put in. We were running my HKS 272's from last year (my 10.0 sec 35R set up) as well as the Polk head from last year also. The motor is in tip top shape 157-162 comp across all cylinders. No manifold back pressure issues, no crank case evac issues. Intake air temp is still around 70 degrees. So needless to say, were stumped. Tomorrow well swap cams and see if that helps and turn up the boost a little and see how she reacts. At this point thats all we can do. But like I said earlier, if anyone has a dyno sheet of there 42R on 22-24psi, can you please post it up or post up a link. Thanks.
That's real low. There is a hx52 dyno thread, about in the same league as the 42r, showing 550whp at like 26psi so that is REAL low considering the 42r is still a little bigger than the hx52. This guy did this without all the one off stuff air to air and stock block and IM And he was tuning with dsmlink.
That's real low. There is a hx52 dyno thread, about in the same league as the 42r, showing 550whp at like 26psi so that is REAL low considering the 42r is still a little bigger than the hx52. This guy did this without all the one off stuff air to air and stock block and IM And he was tuning with dsmlink.
Keep in mind that these numbers really dont mean a whole lot... Most dynos out there are DynoJet's that read ~20% higher then our dyno, the 409whp on ours would be 491whp on a DynoJet, and im still a little boost shy of that mark but still... Hopefully tomorrow will be a big HP day and we can start to figgure this car out.
i know your looking for bigger numbers BUT that isnt even in the efficiency range of the turbo. why dont you crank the boost up and see what it does...
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David 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
Keep in mind that these numbers really dont mean a whole lot... Most dynos out there are DynoJet's that read ~20% higher then our dyno, the 409whp on ours would be 491whp on a DynoJet, and im still a little boost shy of that mark but still... Hopefully tomorrow will be a big HP day and we can start to figgure this car out.
The numbers I'm speaking of were on a low reading dyno too not a dynoJet. I think dazzller has a even better point and I told this to the guy with the hx52 also that these turbos are 30psi plus turbos and low boost numbers are actually usually better or comparable with smaller turbos even though the larger turbos obviously flow more. The gains seen from 25 to 30 psi will be more than from 20-25psi. You obviously know your shit or you wouldn't have even been able to build a car like you did but I would shoot for 35psi as a LOW setting and something like 45psi+ for the fun stuff
Edit: nvm it was a dyno jet they did the readings on but in the thread he talks about how the dyno they were on is a low reading dyno or something Holset Turbos, PART 4
i know your looking for bigger numbers BUT that isnt even in the efficiency range of the turbo. why dont you crank the boost up and see what it does...
That is the plan for today. Remember, you cant run without knowing how to walk first.
The right way to maximize a tune is not just to crank the boost up to compensate for either a bad tune or a ineffective part. The right way is to max out a given lower psi tune then tune it up and just make fine tune changes. Like he should be at or about 550whp atleast at 28psi once he gets there he can crank it up fine tune it make the right power then crank it up and hit his ultimate goal. Like he said walk before you run. That's why you see so many guys blowing up on the dyno trying to get more power with the boost controller instead of the laptop.
The right way to maximize a tune is not just to crank the boost up to compensate for either a bad tune or a ineffective part. The right way is to max out a given lower psi tune then tune it up and just make fine tune changes. Like he should be at or about 550whp atleast at 28psi once he gets there he can crank it up fine tune it make the right power then crank it up and hit his ultimate goal. Like he said walk before you run. That's why you see so many guys blowing up on the dyno trying to get more power with the boost controller instead of the laptop.
I agree to a point. Based off some of your other posts I'm sure you already know this but I want to clarify for other people. You don't want to max a low boost tune with timing and then just crank the boost up with the same timing that the low boost tune has. That can destroy your engine.
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Pat...AKA Project Pat
The right way to maximize a tune is not just to crank the boost up to compensate for either a bad tune or a ineffective part. The right way is to max out a given lower psi tune then tune it up and just make fine tune changes. Like he should be at or about 550whp atleast at 28psi once he gets there he can crank it up fine tune it make the right power then crank it up and hit his ultimate goal. Like he said walk before you run. That's why you see so many guys blowing up on the dyno trying to get more power with the boost controller instead of the laptop.
I couldnt have put it any better myself
The power was really no good at all, 428. Were stumped . Now were at the point of trial and error really. I have a JM Fab Drag Intake Manifold on order, so we'll be replacing the Magnus Street manifold with the JMFab Manifold and see if that helps.
Another little side note, the TQ graphs were dead nuts with eachother at 28psi and 35psi???
I agree to a point. Based off some of your other posts I'm sure you already know this but I want to clarify for other people. You don't want to max a low boost tune with timing and then just crank the boost up with the same timing that the low boost tune has. That can destroy your engine.
Very good point I wouldn't want people to just go out max out a 20psi tune then go and crank the boost up. What I actually do is leave timing alone till I get to the psi level I want to run max. Like say your goal is 45psi you set timing to zero set up a lower boost setting get your a/f ratio where you want it to be for whatever fuel your running. The power level won't be perfect but it will be in the ball park and then you turn the boost up readjust the fuel to make sure your still at that a/f ratio you want add timing till you see knock and then come back a hair so your on the edge. Then from there is where you experiment. Like if you don't think yoru power level is good enough you add and subtract in relation to boost timing and fuel. Like if I think I a car will make more power with less boost and more timing which happens I bring the boost back add timing and take away fuel or I'll just add timing and leave fuel alone but that alows you add more timing than trying to do both. Of course you have to watch as it's a balancing act not a science. Just my .02
The power was really no good at all, 428. Were stumped . Now were at the point of trial and error really. I have a JM Fab Drag Intake Manifold on order, so we'll be replacing the Magnus Street manifold with the JMFab Manifold and see if that helps.
Another little side note, the TQ graphs were dead nuts with eachother at 28psi and 35psi???
I was about to say the magnus is more for the 500-600whp guy who wants top end not the 700+ guy who wants to break trends 28-35psi and same trq is def no bueno Even with conservative dyno that thing should be high 500whp to 600whp somethings is def off. What are you taking the car up to rpm wise. You might just have to spin her out further.
8600 RPM for now. But if TQ keeps falling like it does in most of our cars mine included, to rev it further is pointless. The car is dropping 90 lb ft between 6200 and 8600rpm but it is a steady drop. Ill get some dyno sheets posted up with all the info by the end of the day. Its also making 28psi by 5800 rpm? Hows that happening?
8600 RPM for now. But if TQ keeps falling like it does in most of our cars mine included, to rev it further is pointless. The car is dropping 90 lb ft between 6200 and 8600rpm but it is a steady drop. Ill get some dyno sheets posted up with all the info by the end of the day. Its also making 28psi by 5800 rpm? Hows that happening?
Shorter piping and no fmic to slow things down. Part of the reason I want to go water to air. What cams do you have it actually sounds like your runnig a 272 type cam by your powerband situation faster spool and maxing out by like 6800 def has 272 written all over it with a gt42r with magnus setup.
They are my old HKS272s from last year, I have BC280's but when the car was on the Dyno befor they were in and there was no difference in power. Everything was the same????
The right way to maximize a tune is not just to crank the boost up to compensate for either a bad tune or a ineffective part. The right way is to max out a given lower psi tune then tune it up and just make fine tune changes. Like he should be at or about 550whp atleast at 28psi once he gets there he can crank it up fine tune it make the right power then crank it up and hit his ultimate goal. Like he said walk before you run. That's why you see so many guys blowing up on the dyno trying to get more power with the boost controller instead of the laptop.
i figured the tune would be around where it needs to be given the car we are talking about. if your tune isnt right then why are you still not happy with the numbers? obviously the numbers will go up once the tune is where it needs to be...
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David 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
you dont think its something dumb like spark blow out? i know we have good ignition systems but obviously not going to work with the power your wanting to make. i just say that because i noticed that it appears your on a stock ignition system...
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David 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
And he was tuning with dsmlink.
So well see what to do next????????
Were stumped 
. Now were at the point of trial and error really. I have a JM Fab Drag Intake Manifold on order, so we'll be replacing the Magnus Street manifold with the JMFab Manifold and see if that helps. 
you set timing to zero set up a lower boost setting get your a/f ratio where you want it to be for whatever fuel your running. The power level won't be perfect but it will be in the ball park and then you turn the boost up readjust the fuel to make sure your still at that a/f ratio you want add timing till you see knock and then come back a hair so your on the edge. Then from there is where you experiment. Like if you don't think yoru power level is good enough you add and subtract in relation to boost timing and fuel. Like if I think I a car will make more power with less boost and more timing which happens I bring the boost back add timing and take away fuel or I'll just add timing and leave fuel alone but that alows you add more timing than trying to do both. Of course you have to watch as it's a balancing act not a science. Just my .02
