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Bore on engine rebuild

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dsmBear

10+ Year Contributor
387
10
Aug 27, 2012
Carmichael, California
A buddy of mine rebuilding for 500+ parts, he works at local racing shop here. He's giving me his plan of how hes gonna approach the build.

Bore: .020 over

Forged pistons

ARP rodbolts with the stock used rods

Any suggestions? Seem like a good approach?
 
Last edited:
When i meant forged, All aftermarket, even oem style are forged aluminum, so we're thinking oem pistons, what rods and piston combos would you suggest

if your going .2 over how will you use oem pistons? I thought you needed the pistons to match and I would recommend if your doing this to get forget rods and pistons. what turbo? how much boost? goal hp? Top end rebuilt?
 
When i meant forged, All aftermarket, even oem style are forged aluminum, so we're thinking oem pistons, what rods and piston combos would you suggest

OEM and OEM style are cast not forged.

if your going .2 over how will you use oem pistons?

OEM replacement pistons are available over sized.
 
OEM and OEM style are cast not forged.



OEM replacement pistons are available over sized.

What are your plans for it? just a stock type rebuild or high HP?

Yea honestly I wouldn't go forged if he's keeping the stock manifold/turbo and not going to move to a big turbo(T3, T4), but if you want more then 500awhp then go forged!!
 
For 300-350hp, a stock rod build will be fine.

Decent bearings, a composite HG, BSE, ARP Head studs

Deck the block and port the front oil galleys

Remove the oil galley balls in the crank so you can clean it.

Weight match the rods and pistons

That should cover what you need for your goal.
 
Yea honestly I wouldn't go forged if he's keeping the stock manifold/turbo and not going to move to a big turbo(T3, T4), but if you want more then 500awhp then go forged!!

What exactly makes a "t3 t4" turbo big? Last I checked that just signified the bolt pattern on the turbo.

Back on topic, a fresh "OEM" rebuild should be plenty with a nice turbo and supporting mods.
 
First... Not the place you linked to, do a google search, and a fourm search on them.

Just a stock rod, and NPR 63DTF1 pistons are all you need
 
From what I understand NPR is comparable to oem(may even manufacture for mitsu but correct me if I'm wrong)..... But for the love of all that is good, do not give dsmgraveyard your money. It's a disaster of a shop if there ever was one. Please just read the reviews on that particular "vendor" from this site.
 
Yes those would be the correct pistons for a 6 bolt.
 
That mod is not really cost effective at most machine shops.

It would add $100 or so for the small end work

Then add the cost of arp rod bolts, and rod resizing

You may as well save a couple hundred more and move to a H beam and forged piston set up.
 
He's already planning on arp hardware for the rod bolts so whats a little extra for work on the small end. In my area its only $80 so for me that is well worth the extra bump in compression.

Either piston would work for his power levels because he'll never really be out of boost to feel the difference. Thats still after all 16g territory.
 
He's already planning on arp hardware for the rod bolts so whats a little extra for work on the small end. In my area its only $80 so for me that is well worth the extra bump in compression.

Either piston would work for his power levels because he'll never really be out of boost to feel the difference. Thats still after all 16g territory.


you guys are talking like 300-350 hp isnt a lot of power ahaha. Which compared to others it isnt. I just want a beast of a street car. at lowest possible cost
 
Stock rods,pistons,valves,cams etc. Entire stock longblock will easily and comfortably hold 300 to 350. If you tune it bad you will pay for it. If the machinist does good solid work and assembles it correctly and break in is done right then the engine will last a very very long time. Again, its all in the tune.
 
Stock rods,pistons,valves,cams etc. Entire stock longblock will easily and comfortably hold 300 to 350. If you tune it bad you will pay for it. If the machinist does good solid work and assembles it correctly and break in is done right then the engine will last a very very long time. Again, its all in the tune.

after the build it will be running stock tjune etc till i get bigger injectors, turbo, and other parts
 
Lowest cost possible? Whats wrong with your motor now? If nothing, leave it alone and just run it. A stock motor can hold 500whp easily.

Assuming all your maintenance is done. 300-350hp is an easy goal to achieve and if you want to be cheap about that too then.

Evo 8/9 injectors
Walbro 190
16g (any flavor will do)
boost controller
safc 2
homemade logger

Thats about all you need for a budget 300-350hp car.
 
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