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Can't decide which head

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turtlebain

10+ Year Contributor
447
27
May 16, 2012
Rochester, New_York
Guys - help me choose what would be the best path for my goal to be able to safely rev to 9,000 RPM. As I see it, these would be two good options, what would be a better package?

Force Engineering Street Head Deal
Parts Included - Kiggly street springs | Kiggly HLA | Force Spec valves | Viton Valve stem seals

T & W Machine Shop + Self install Kiggly Beehive Springs
Cory @ STM Recommended this Machine Shop around here. I would want to upgrade the springs for higher revs.
OEM Valves | OEM Seals | 3G Revised Lifters | KIGGLY BEEHIVE SPRINGS & RETAINERS
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...ions-kiggly-beehive-spring-retainer-kits.html

Side note: Evo rockers - worth the extra money?
 
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I have a slowboy stage 3 head with kiggly hla , beehive springs, titanium retainers, and so on and love it to death. Matched with big cams i can rev it as far as I want and she takes it.
 
I have a slowboy stage 3 head with kiggly hla , beehive springs, titanium retainers, and so on and love it to death. Matched with big cams i can rev it as far as I want and she takes it.

HKS 272 Delta Re-Grind Cams Here. How would the Kiggly HLA benefit me besides making it shine underneath my valve cover?
 
Sure , but I'd rather have people's collective knowledge than some sales blurb off the manufacturers web page. I've heard before that they're not worth doing (can't remember where)
 
It regulates the oil getting into the head, so you have more oil in the pan.

There have only been a handful of cast rockers breaking. I do however run evo rockers. They are slightly lighter and have never seen any cases of them breaking.
 
It regulates the oil getting into the head, so you have more oil in the pan.

There have only been a handful of cast rockers breaking. I do however run evo rockers. They are slightly lighter and have never seen any cases of them breaking.

I was thinking the rockers were better designed to see higher RPMs. Lighter & Stronger.

The Kiggly HLA seems to point out a flaw in OEM - that there is significant drop / fluctuation in oil pressure after hard acceleration. Apparently it is the fix to that. Interesting, didn't know that was a problem. I certainly don't want to see my bearings get chewed agian, so this could be cheap insurance. I'd like to see more evidence of it working besides Kiggly's chart but I'm becoming convinced.

So (back to the main subject) it seems that everyone is pointing toward the "T & W Machine Shop + Self install Kiggly Beehive Springs" over the Force Engineering Street Head Deal.

Thanks for all responses so far.
 
Have the shop do the springs. The retainer shims (or whatever there called) can be a pain to install. What about upgraded valve guides. I left stock one in there and did the Viton valve seals.
 
Actually yeah called the shop today (actually called TW Automotive & Machine) and they said spring swap was no extra charge.
 
They said full assembly assuming it includes that I just asked specifically about the springs
 
Well Idk if the stock valve guides will be fine. But double check before they do all that work and charge u extra pull apart n put better guides in. You know.
 
Guide work will be extra, and needs to be done before the valve job.

The best head for you will be one built to cover your needs for now, but allow you some room to make more power down the road.

I would suggest going to a stainless valve going to 8500-9000 rpm. Yes the stock 6T valves have done that, but we are talking about 20+ year old valves with who knows how many miles.

Also most stainless will bend if there is an issue that causes the valve to meet piston.
Where in a worst case, the 6T valves snap off.


For the rockers, the EVO VIII are lighter, but are they worth the cash lay out for new ones? I just do not see it personally for the bit of gain they give.
 
Hey guys,

Just wanted to share with you what TW Automotive & Machine in Fairport, NY. I finally got around to taking some pics with my good camera as opposed to with the iPhone. It's covered in WD40 at the moment for protection but for that one deck shot I wiped away the deck surface for y'all. Enjoy & let me know what you think.

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Head looks to be a bit thin, do the oil port mod.
I say this due to how shallow the oil trough looks in the pic.

Looks like you have the Hyundai valves in the head and not the 6T mitsu valves.

Did the shop give you any info on head thickness or combustion chamber cc?

Head looks good and clean, and a good surface.
 
Right, I forgot to do the oil port mod before bringing it. so just shove a rag down the port & cover surrounding areas to make sure no shavings gets inside? I wanted to grind off some of the flash too and probably should've made smooth oil drain passages. All these things I think would've helped.. Well there's always next time. And you think the Hyundai valves are no good?
 
I can not speak too much on the valves, I have not installed them in a head for turbo use.

Looks like you will find out how they take the heat from a turbo.

Tape an old HG to the surface to help protect it when you do the oil mod. The rag should block the oil feed hole.
 
I can not speak too much on the valves, I have not installed them in a head for turbo use.

Looks like you will find out how they take the heat from a turbo.

Tape an old HG to the surface to help protect it when you do the oil mod. The rag should block the oil feed hole.
 
Cool - thanks for the tip. As for the valves.. They were installed in my 400 hp setup running a PTE 6152 and they held up. I had the shop owner check the valves to make sure.
 
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