I definitely will do a boost leak test, but I visually inspected all vac lines and ic piping. It would be a MAJOR leak to cause these symptoms on idle. I removed all uncessary vac lines anyway (emissions). I'll also do a compression test.
To me it looks like whatever is supposed to translate your 1g CAS signal to be correct for your 2g ecu is either not working right or needs a setting changed, something like that. The behavior of your ignition timing in the log just doesn't look right.
Are you using a 1995 ecu?
To me it looks like whatever is supposed to translate your 1g CAS signal to be correct for your 2g ecu is either not working right or needs a setting changed, something like that. The behavior of your ignition timing in the log just doesn't look right.
Are you using a 1995 ecu?
Yea it's a 95 ecu. I have plug wires on reverse order. Maybe I have a setting wrong in dsmlink
Well I fooled around with it a bit today. I went to rent a timing light but apparently nowhere around me rents them, they only sell them. I refused to spend $50 on something I'll use once in the next 3 years. So I just moved the CAS while it was running to see the affect it had. I moved it all the way in the (i think) CCW direction and got a stable idle out of her at 1000RPM. It breaks up a bit at 800RPM still, but it'll stay running at 1000RPM. Removing the oil cap allowed some smoke to come out of the VC which I've been lead to believe is from the copper spray-a-gasket burning off. I let it idle to operating temps then turned it off for a cool down. It still sounds like shit when it idles.
I'm still waiting on some more trans fluid, I'm like a half qt low. That should be in tomorrow.
I'm waiting on my boost leak tester back from Nick (no hurry dude) to do a boost leak test.
I'm waiting on borrowing a timing gun from my buddy Jason this week to set base timing.
Also this week I'll do a compression test to see what that turns out. Then maybe I can actually drive this beast down the street.
I picked up a timing gun at AutoZone for $40. Looks like a piece of turd and packaging was impossible to get open. There was also a random sticker on it that just said "Good". Hahaha. But ####ed if I was spending $99.99 on the "deluxe" turd model.
Anyway, by the time I got a chance to attempt to set base timing in the car it was dark out and I couldn't see shit even with my L.E.D. super bright flashlight. So I'll wait until tomorrow. All I did today was fill the rest of the trans up with fluid and replace a t-bolt clamp on the IC piping.
But I still don't like the way the engine sounds, it sounds like a freakin' diesel motor and I have no idea if its normal or good or bad or whatever, so I took a brief video with my camera. I realized later I had the "ground timing" option set on DSMLink at this time. It's the only reason it sounds/looks so steady. So anyone care to weigh in on this horrific noise my motor is making?
For me, setting timing in the dark is easier sometimes as the white mark on the harmonic dampener is easier to see. You should have no problem doing it in the dark.
For me, setting timing in the dark is easier sometimes as the white mark on the harmonic dampener is easier to see. You should have no problem doing it in the dark.
Perhaps, but I was also in the middle of figuring out how to use this thing. Ive never done this before. I may need to employ the help of someone who has done this before to make sure I do it right.
Could this happen if my cam gears are not "timed" correctly? I think I remember someone saying there should be 15 teeth from the middle of one dowel pin to the middle of the other. I think I counted 16 including both ends, but the timing lines matched up when the motor was at TDC.
There should be 39 teeth from outside cam mark to outside cam mark.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln
You start counting from 1 at the tooth on TOP of the exhaust timing mark and continue onto tooth #39 which is the tooth that sits directly on the intake cam mark.
You can do it yourself!
Connect the positive and negative clips to the battery and the weird clip goes over spark plug wire from cylinder 1 (closest to timing belt). Then you point the gun at the harmonic dampener from the engine bay. You'll point it to the right of the alternator belt. You'll see the timing mark degree indicator on the lower timing belt cover. It can be seen in this thread: T-belt cover base timing marks
With all of the timing marks lined up (cam gears, crank pulley, oil pump), the white mark will be lined up with the 0. Then when you ground timing and shoot the light, you'll adjust the CAS until that white mark lines up with the 5* tick. Engine Timing Base Timing Adjustment
Thanks boss. I'm thinking one of the cams is off by a tooth. It would explain a lot. But what the hell, I've done the t-belt on this motor about 39 times already, hahaha.
More than anything else I hear lifter tick in the video. I haven't really followed this thread but even if you replaced the lifters with the revised 3G ones it will continue to tick for awhile after initial start up.
It's hard to detect other possible undesirable sounds in that video but it could be as simple as letting the lifters quiet down with some normal driving.
Sorry if this has already been discussed earlier in this thread.
So anyone care to weigh in on this horrific noise my motor is making?
You're right it sounds like a diesel. It also sounds like a 1999 Ford gas engine van when they first start up, for the first couple seconds BEFORE THE OIL PRESSURE COMES UP. So I'm sure you know what I think it is, I think you probably need that cylinder head oil pressure mod #2. The one that opens up the diameter of the hole that the one stud goes through so there is enough clearance there to let the proper amount of oil flow through to the head. I know you've got oil to the head, I just think not enough. If you had a way of measuring the oil pressure in the oil gallery that goes down the length of the head, downstream from where that head bolt is, you would probably see about 0 psi in there. If you really have a .465 diameter head stud inside a .470 hole like what bogusSVO measured, I don't see how there could possibly be the right amount of oil going through there to the head.
We're on Boost, I understand what you're saying. Now my only thing is that I've NEVER read anything about other people who have done this "7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block" mod that had issues with oil pressure in the head due to the low clearance. If I had remembered this before I put the head back on I'd be inclined to say yea, that'd be a good idea, why not. But now with it all together and visibly seeing oil in the valvetrain, I'm more inclined to look at timing issues for now to get it running right and then seeing how it sounds.
But now with it all together and visibly seeing oil in the valvetrain, I'm more inclined to look at timing issues for now to get it running right and then seeing how it sounds.
Yeah, that's what I would do too.
Wishing there was a way to measure oil pressure in the head downstream from that head bolt. I'm not clear at the moment on whether the turbo oil comes from upstream or downstream of the head bolt restriction. If it was for sure downstream of the bolt you could Tee in a temporary oil pressure gage there and get a reading.
So I checked out the timing belt....something is off, but I'm not sure what.
I checked the cam gear positions. I lifted the motor up and used a straight edge to verify timing marks are parallel with each other and the VC. Check....
I counted teeth from left to right (and vice versa to be sure) and got 39 teeth.
So I checked the crank pulley. What appears to be the timing mark was WAAAAY below any of the numbers on the tbelt cover. Take a look here (shitty iPhone pics...)
It may be hard to see, but the little notch in the pulley is just above where the bottom of the tbelt cover is. I would assume it should be pointing somewhere where the numbers are shown???
So I removed the crank pulley and tbelt cover to check the crank sprocket. It seems to be lined up with the timing mark....
So I'm totally confused....
Additionally there was a small drip of oil running down the auto tensioner. Very very light, but I couldn't tell where it was coming from?
AND, if you look closely at the trigger plate behind the crank sprocket, it looks like something (maybe the belt?) was rubbing against it as it was spinning. There are smooth areas around the center, then rough areas near the edge.
The harmonic dampener timing mark is off because somehow the crank sprocket is not the way it should be. The dowel pin to help align the dampener is currently at 1 o'clock or so, but it should be at 3 o'clock.
Your oil pump timing mark isn't lined up, but that won't really affect it since the trigger plate mark is lined up.
Does the inside edge of the belt look worn? You should be able to easily see this edge at the cam gears.
I would rotate the crank clockwise until you get all the marks lined up (cam gears, oil pump, and crank sprocket) and see if anything changes. If not (and if it were my engine), I'd take the timing belt off and check everything out. Something just doesn't seem right with the crank sprocket.
I agree with what Brian is saying. Your crank sprocket appears to be rotated too far CCW.
I haven't looked at mine in awhile but shouldn't the Woodruff key/slot be visible at the 9 o'clock position? If the key is there it should be practically impossible to misalign the sprocket.
On the side that's visible in the pics you can see what appears to be markings from the larger diameter balance shaft belt sprocket.
I even looked at those grease marks for a minute or two and thought to myself it shouldn't have those there. But I haven't reused a trigger plate, nor have I reused the balance shaft sprocket. Good call!
haha damn dude, I even mentioned in my article to check and make sure the plate is on the right way!! Either way, I am absolutely amazed that you got good compression *i.e., didn't bend a valve, with the plate on backwards.
Hahaha, yea...I'll have to run a compression test later and do some other tests, but in the meantime (since I'm in a hurry) here's a copy paste of my post from NJDSM:
So I'm an idiot. I had the crank trigger plate on backwards!! I hope I didn't #### up any of my valves. Anyway, I reversed it and put it all back together. Long story short, she purrs like a kitten (minus a small exhaust leak) and I even drove her around the block!!!
Only small issue is a tiny oil leak behind the tbelt cover....oh well...its a DSM
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