That totally makes sense. But I have two arguments against your theory:
1) Oil drains from the head to the pan in the same manner, around a bolt hole, correct? All holes are the same diameter, so it wouldn't make sense for one to flow oil and not the other.
2) My turbo is fed oil from the cylinder head. When I removed the oil return tube from the pan yesterday it flowed oil which means oil somehow got to the head, right?
I'm not trying to say that you are incorrect, just providing information to help narrow down this issue.
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I don't think you understand what i'm saying. Only that 1 bolt hole has oil flowing through it around the bolt, and it is the feed for the whole head, all of the oil in the head flows around that 1 bolt and into the oil galley. If the studs barely fit in the holes, then there isn't enough room for the proper amount of oil to get in the head. That has nothing to do with how oil drains out of the head. The oil doesn't drain through the bolt holes, there are drains cast into the head.
Ahhh, I see what you mean. I misunderstood how the oil drains from the head to the oil pan. That could be a definite possibility. In the meantime I may as well replace the oil pump with a brand new one since a used one on a new motor was a bad idea to begin with...
So I ordered a brand new OEM front case, oil drive and driven gear (straight cut), front case gasket, and oil filter housing gasket for a whopping $300
I got everything off the front case today except the bolt holding on the crank sprocket and trigger plate. I was nervous about spinning the crank and bending some valves, so I wanted to get some advice from you guys on how to remove (and re-install) that bolt without turning the crank and bending my new valves. New parts should arrive on Friday.
Do you have an impact? I take it off with the air gun, and when i put it back on i don't tighten it fully until the t-belt is on. In other words i don't put strong torque on it unless the timing is already set. That way if it turns, nothing is messed up.
Do you have an impact? I take it off with the air gun, and when i put it back on i don't tighten it fully until the t-belt is on. In other words i don't put strong torque on it unless the timing is already set. That way if it turns, nothing is messed up.
Yea, I have an impact gun. I just wasn't sure how good of an idea it would be. The bolt was torqued down to like 85 ft/lb when I installed it the first time.
I kind of went off track for this thread into an attempted "how-to" thread on rebuilding the front case. Link. I decided to keep posting back here since this is no longer oil pump related...
Of course things just keep getting worse. Jason and I removed the head today. The oil port on the head seemed like it had plenty of room to feed oil through. So we decided to spin the pump without a head. Surely oil will come FLYING out, right???? WRONG! Spun the pump in BOTH directions (just to be sure) for a good 2 minutes and nothing. One time some oil barely dribbled out of the, now open, oil return line port on the oil pan. We heard gurgling after spinning, but saw no oil. It comes out of the OFH, but not the block. So we removed the OFH, cleaned up the relieve valve a bit, and stuck it back on. Same thing. I guess there is some blockage somewhere in the block.
Anyway, I guess somehow you have to get familiar with the oil passageway between the OFH and that hole on the top of the block. I wonder if it is just a couple of intersecting straight shot passageways, or if it is more complicated then that.
I emailed the guy I bought the short block from. 6 months later he tells me the holes for the oil squirters are not plugged. I apparently never looked for this.....
At least you know the problem. I bet next time you check things out a lot better. Something like this happens to all of us in the beginning.
absolutely. but now that i've done it all from the ground up I know what to look for. I pretty much ran into the major of issues with doing a 6 bolt swap.
Since this thread still exists, let me follow up with where I am now so I can get some more suggestions/ideas from you guys...
So as I mentioned I have oil pressure and the motor starts. Unfortunately I cannot get it to idle. I setup my fuel offsets in DSMLink for PTE 880's which (I think) was like -45% and 420 deadtime. Anyway, I set the idle to 850 for now to get it warmed up. The car starts up just fine, but once RPMS go down to about 1100RPM it idle surges. Vacuum reads between -16 and -11 depending on where the RPMs are. I checked all my vac lines for leaks, but I sealed them all up and even replaced some just in case. I have stock cams btw.
My first step tomorrow (or next opportunity) is to set base timing with my 1g CAS. But any other suggestions?
Is there something in DSMLink that translates 1g CAS to 2g ECU?
BTW, with a setup like you've got, how do you know the head is getting enough oil? If you are only measuring oil pressure down on the filter housing, you really have no idea what the oil pressure is in the head do you?
BTW, with a setup like you've got, how do you know the head is getting enough oil? If you are only measuring oil pressure down on the filter housing, you really have no idea what the oil pressure is in the head do you?
You're right. I need to check it at the head. Maybe I'll put the sensor at the head just to get a pressure reading.
Also, I'm not quite sure how I can set base timing. When the RPMs drop to around 800RPM or so the car starts to stall and eventually dies. How can I set timing like that?
Ground timing using DSMlink and see how the car reacts once warmed up. Maybe bump up the idle a bit to help stabilize it, if it doesn't start surging.
Can you grab a log or two of the car just at idle?
I'll log some data tonight and post it up. I'll also try grounding timing in link. I set the idle at 1100RPM in link and still couldn't get a steady idle!
Have you verified your ISC is in good condition? Checked your BISS screw? Checked for boost leaks?
I have not checked the ISC. I played with the BISS screw and it had no affect on the idle. I also haven't done a boost leak test but if a boost leak is affecting idle like this it would be a HUGE boost leak and very noticeable.
I played with the BISS screw and it had no affect on the idle.
That's weird. How could the BISS have no effect? If it has no effect maybe you have a vacuum leak that is bigger than the BISS, the BISS is puny by comparison! That's what it sounds like to me anyway, a big vacuum leak. You would be getting intake air that is not seen by the MAF.
In DSMLink can you set a floor (lower limit) on the MAF hz that is seen by the ecu at idle? If so you could set that to 40 hz or whatever and it would prevent a lean condition at idle.
A vacuum leak was my original thought since vacuum went down to around -11 when RPMs were in the 800-900 range. I have all the emissions stuff removed so the plugs on the TB are blocked off. That doesn't leave many vac lines. I checked them all and they seem pretty tight and I even replaced some. I feel like if there was a BIG leak I would be able to notice by sight. But its still a possibility.
I think I'll log a bunch of data in DSMLink to get a better idea of whats happening.
Well in the log, whenever your timing is low your rpm is high. Then all of a sudden your timing kicks up to 20 something, as soon as that happens your rpm starts to drop off. It just keeps going back and forth like that. Something seems inverted about that, and way too jumpy. My car (1g) has low timing with low idle rpm and high timing with high idle rpm and it doesn't oscillate.
The fuel looks ok to me, not what I expected, I thought it would be dying from going too lean but apparently not.
Don't know if the idle switch should be 0 or 1. Does it switch to 0 when you step on the gas?
Thanks man, I checked the DSMLink post. At least I know the IdleSW is correct. Looks like I'll need to set base timing first and go from there. I'm just hoping I'm not leaking air from the IM gasket...
