I'm 99% confident that the oil pickup is attached to the pump. But I mean I have ARP rod bolts, so I had to drill out the oil pickup a bit. Perhaps it didn't seal well between the pickup and the pump?
Anyway, I snapped some pics of the oil filter housing and the cylinder head with the VC off. It looks like some oil got in there. There are small pools around the head bolts and in between the cylinders where the spark plugs go. The pics aren't fantastic, but you can definitely see some oil in there.
Also, with the VC off, I unplugged spark and fuel again and cranked over the motor in hopes of seeing it come up in the motor, but I don't think that built enough pressure to get it up there, so nothing came out.
Here are pics of the head without the VC:
Pics of the oil filter housing. You can see the plugged ports. Two plugged in the front, one on the bottom.
The ones that are plugged are like twice as big as the size of the threaded part of the sending unit...both the aftermarket and OEM one. Should I just remove the dummy light sensor and use that port for an oil pressure sensor?
Oh, and before I forget, I tested out the oil pressure sending unit by sticking a pin in an pushing it in with the gauge on. It didn't budge, so I'm assuming the sending unit is bad??
Advertisement
To browse the forums without the advertisements above, Login/Register
oh man Jeff, I told you to spin the damn thing before putting the motor in! Oh and just to contribute some advice, if the engine has not been primed correctly, it will sometimes take 30-60 seconds for the oil to start coming out of the head ports. by all means, though, DO NOT start the engine again. I'll check tomorrow in my parts bin to see if I have an extra 6 bolt OFH. I'm pretty sure I do, but I don't think that's your issue. The thread for the oil ports on the OFH are 1/8BSP
Yes, take off the dummy light (the small mushroom looking one) and use that thread. Be careful one threading the sensor, the aftermarkets are 1/8NPT, but will fit in the thread just fine, just don't thread it in too much or you'll strip the hole.
I think it's time to pull the timing belt and hit the oil pump with an air gun, dude. Better safe than sorry.
you can pump the oil in through that oil port where the sensor is on the OFH... this is how i primed my oil pump a week ago when i did my 6bolt swap. you can screw in the fitting thats on you IM that goes to you brake booster and get a fluid pump and just pump like 1/2-3/4 of a quart and you will be good to go!
you can pump the oil in through that oil port where the sensor is on the OFH... this is how i primed my oil pump a week ago when i did my 6bolt swap. you can screw in the fitting thats on you IM that goes to you brake booster and get a fluid pump and just pump like 1/2-3/4 of a quart and you will be good to go!
you can pump the oil in through that oil port where the sensor is on the OFH... this is how i primed my oil pump a week ago when i did my 6bolt swap. you can screw in the fitting thats on you IM that goes to you brake booster and get a fluid pump and just pump like 1/2-3/4 of a quart and you will be good to go!
Yea, this was my next idea. I'd rather eliminate as much as possible before removing the t-belt. I mean it's not a big deal, just a pain in the ass while it's in the car! Unfortunately I won't have time this weekend as I'll be in AC for a wedding, but hopefully next week I'll get oil up there!
I still plan on priming the motor again today using the hand pump on the bottle of oil to get it to the cylinder head, but......
In the event I do decide or find out I need to replace the oil pump, I have two questions:
1) Can I just purchase the drive and driven gears and "rebuild" the oil pump instead of purchasing an entire new front case/oil pump assembly?
2) Is it possible (easy/moderate/hard) to replace the front case/oil pump while the motor is in the car? Can someone give a quick rundown of procedures?
The hand pump I got from Advanced Auto was a huge piece of shit. The bottom part of it that goes in the bottle was like 3" long and everytime I attached a hose to it, it wouldn't suck enough to bring up oil. So I kept pouring oil into a cleaned out gatorade bottle since it was relatively short. Now the car has at least 4 qts of oil in it. I added probably about another 5 qts at least using this method and saw nothing in the head. Now I read this article on tuners ([RESOLVED] 10 quarts of oil to prime engine?) which leads me to believe I wasn't doing it fast enough and long enough to get it up through the head. However it also lead me to believe that if I disconnect the oil feed line and crank the motor, oil should shoot out and that means the oil pump is working correctly? I'm assuming this is having an oil feed line from the OFH. Mine is from the cylinder head.
Anywho, it got dark so I left it, but my plans are to drain the 10qts of oil that are in the car now and try this method again with a good 5 qts of oil and doing it really fast. Then if I still don't see oil in the head I'll crank it and see if it comes out the oil feed line.
...or should I just say #### it and remove the t-belt and spin it with a drill??
sweet ive been waiting for some rep points. when do i get a star???
but honestly it worked great for me and i only pumped about 3/4 quart. when you are pumping it in pinch the lower side so it forces it through the pump and not back into the bottle i didnt see it comming out of the head either but once i put 3/4 of a quart in i made sure it came out of the oil feed line when i cranked it over and it did so i figured i was good to go! and i was
I still plan on priming the motor again today using the hand pump on the bottle of oil to get it to the cylinder head, but......
In the event I do decide or find out I need to replace the oil pump, I have two questions:
1) Can I just purchase the drive and driven gears and "rebuild" the oil pump instead of purchasing an entire new front case/oil pump assembly?
2) Is it possible (easy/moderate/hard) to replace the front case/oil pump while the motor is in the car? Can someone give a quick rundown of procedures?
Thanks guys!
to answer these questions.
yes you can just buy the drive and driven gears and replace them. its very simple
i have never done the front case with the motor installed so i dont know how hard it wll be but i know it would be a PITA but then again what isnt a PITA on a DSM
sweet ive been waiting for some rep points. when do i get a star???
but honestly it worked great for me and i only pumped about 3/4 quart. when you are pumping it in pinch the lower side so it forces it through the pump and not back into the bottle i didnt see it comming out of the head either but once i put 3/4 of a quart in i made sure it came out of the oil feed line when i cranked it over and it did so i figured i was good to go! and i was
Well my oil feed is from the cylinder head since I"m running an FP3150 with a restricter/filter in the feed line. If I don't see oil coming through the head, do you think I'll get any from the oil feed when cranking?
Also, did you put in the standard 4.5 qts of oil and then pump in another 3/4 qt? I'm just trying to figure out how much oil I should have in there when I crank and check for pressure.
This morning I walked outside to get in my car and go to work and there is oil ALL OVER the floor!! It soaked through the cardboard boxes I had under the car and the various rags and started seeping through the garage door. Yet I didn't see anywhere where it was leaking?? I also didn't see anything leaking last night. So I cleaned up as much as possible at 7AM before work and came back on my lunch. I drained the oil and only about 4 qts worth came out of the oil pan when I put in at least 5 qts yesterday. Something is not adding up here and I'm losing patience, time, and money....and a clean garage.
Ok, nevermind that last post...I'm just retarded. I realized I left the hose connected to the oil filter housing and open. The 5 qts I pumped in last night just came back down in the morning. FAIL.
how are thing going on this??? you may not see oil comming out of the head... i didnt but i just unhooked my oil feed line off the turbo and cranked the motor over and oil came out so i knew everything was good... and i did end up over filling my oil when i pumped in the oil so i just drained it out of the oil feed line for the turbo. it worked great for me
how are thing going on this??? you may not see oil comming out of the head... i didnt but i just unhooked my oil feed line off the turbo and cranked the motor over and oil came out so i knew everything was good... and i did end up over filling my oil when i pumped in the oil so i just drained it out of the oil feed line for the turbo. it worked great for me
Unfortunately my time to work on the car has been limited. But I drained all the oil out of the motor and picked up a fresh gallon. I furiously pumped in the entire gallon (5 quarts) through the OFH and hear air and such come out but nothing out of the head. And yes it's possible I'm building oil pressure and I could just open the oil feed to the turbo, but I'd really like to see oil in the head before I start the car up again. So my plan is to remove the timing belt and use an electric impact gun and spin until I see oil in the head. Better to be safe than sorry.
I was talking to a buddy of mine at work who has a 98 GSX he's rebuilding. He was telling me that he heard when you put a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block, you have to port out the oil passages to the head because otherwise the head will get starved of oil. So I searched the forums for threads on this and the only thing people say is to bore out the head stud holes to 12mm (from 11mm) to get the head to mate with the block on the head studs. Does anyone else have information on this? Perhaps this is why I'm not getting oil in the head.
Either way, I'm removing the tbelt and spinning the pump this week.
theres no need to do any porting like that i have had a 6bolt head on a 7 bolt block with no problems. and if you have removed your balance shaft you normally have more oil pressure then you need!
hopefully someone else can chime in on this but oil does not need to reach the head. that is just an indicator the you have flooded the pump and oil filter.
for example... when you do an oil change there is no oil in the head and all you do is fill it up with oil and start the car up right?
but the pump is still flooded (full of oil) after you remove the filter and drain the oil. so really as long as there is oil in the pump, it will be fine
anyone else want to chime in and assure our friend here!
anyone else want to chime in and assure our friend here!
I mean that makes perfect sense to me, but everyone has told me that when you prime the oil system you should see oil come out of the cylinder head. Therefore I don't feel comfortable that it is "primed" until I see oil coming out of the cylinder head. I'm nervous about the cams/rockers/springs not being lubricated while spinning. Albeit much easier to just start the car and assume I have oil flow, I'd rather take time and make sure I'm getting oil. But I'm open to suggestions.
It's not so much the lubrication factor, but the fact that you're looking for 100% operation of the oil pump. To me, that's the only reason why anyone would want to prime the pump. Either way, I think you've got the right idea Jeff and just spin the damn thing and move on with your life.
I hadn't had a chance to post, but I removed the timing belt and spun the oil pump for over a minute several times with an electric impact gun. Not only did NO oil come up to the head, but I also rounded off the nut on the oil pump. So it looks like I'll be removing the front case and rebuilding the oil pump with new gears.
You do know that the bolt hole on the exhaust side on the end that the water housing is on is the oil feed for the head.
So are you saying that I needed to port this out more when putting a 7 bolt head on my 6 bolt block? I know other people that have done this combo without such porting. But I'm obviously open to suggestions.
I did some searching and I have not seen any mention of modifying oil passages in the 7 bolt head to accomodate a 6 bolt block. Also, I noted that the oil drain passage from the head seems to work fine as I've poured in oil and it reaches the pan. This is leading me to believe its more of a problem with the oil pump. I'm just going to go ahead and replace it and see what happens. Worst case, it will eliminate that possibility and running a used oil pump on a brand new motor is a dumb idea to begin with. I apparently rode the short bus to school...
No, the oil feed to the head is the bolt hole for the hole on the exhaust side closest to the passenger side. The oil flows around the stud and into the passage. If the holes are only reamed enough for the studs to barely fit it could be blocked. If you look down the hole you can see the oil port.
I understand what you're saying, but if he's not getting oil through the galleys up inside the head, it's enough to be worried, although it'd be nice if he saw oil coming out of the feed as you said.
I understand what you're saying, but if he's not getting oil through the galleys up inside the head, it's enough to be worried, although it'd be nice if he saw oil coming out of the feed as you said.
I don't understand what you mean. The oil galleys in the head get their oil from that bolt hole. There is a hole in the block that is the oil feed for the head. It flows through the trough in the head, around the bolt, and into the feed port in the bolt hole. From there if feeds the entire head. If the hole was reamed only enough to barely fit the stud, oil may not flow around it into the feed port.
