Here I go again, tinkering along with this never ending POS. After sanding, I used compressed air to clean up the excess dust and wiped the entire bay with some clorox wipes I had laying around, then I sprayed the air again to make sure it was as clean as it could be. After that, I masked everything off as best I can and went to work:
I used duplicolor black primer for the first 2 coats:
Then I switched to duplicolor grey primer for another coat:
Here's the work today, I never thought I'd see my damn engine sitting on a table.
re-teflon'd the SMIM and installed a new fitting. The original came with 2 3/8's and 2 1/8's. I only needed one 3/8 for the brake booster, so I swapped in another 1/4.
Finally put in my dual nozzle (675 + 350)
And my favorite, this took about 1.5 hrs to make. It bolts to some factory holes and is sturdy as can be
Isn't underneath the AC and PS pipes and whatnot still white?
Yes it is, but you'll never see it anyway
Quote:
Originally Posted by chavez408
Any shaft play on your 50 trim yet? How much boost are you running with your meth now? I'm looking into them
Very slight shaft play, but then again it's been through close to 4 years of beating. Before the engine blew, I was bơosting about 32psi and it dropped off to about 26psi, even with my tial 38mm with a 1.4 dual spring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TuRBoTaLooN
Tom, you keep making me jealous. I'm stuck at a standstill now with the rebuild due to lack of money and totalling the evo.
hah, don't be jealous. The only thing I have on you is TIME. After leaving the job and what not, I've had buttloads of time to spend on the talon. Everything that I have done since the bearing spun has been all labor + a couple cans of paint and sandpaper. est. cost of repair is about 800-1500 depending on what the machine shop says. I want to gather the latter amount before I even take the trip to the machine shop, so I can just drop it off and get it done at one time. I plan on reviving the car mid september, with good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperXX
You totaled an Evo....... tisk tisk thats 8 years bad luck.
No worries, it wasn't Jeff's fault. The evo will be missed
Haha true. Got any closeups of those areas after the paint?
No, the pictures posted were the closest I took. Not much more detail to talk about other than it's smooth as can be. The paint has fully cured by now and has already had a couple bumps to it without chipping. Overall I'm very happy I took the time to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperXX
Why a black bay on a white car?
Because I like being different Well, that and it's much easier to maintain than the white. I was always very embarassed to show off my bay in person because the paint looked like shit. Painting it white was an option, but having seen someone else's car with the black, I think it will look awesome once complete. The black really hides all of the nonessential BS in the engine bay and makes for a cleaner look.
On a different note, I dropped off my block @ Edwin Automotive in Parsippany and Rob there really knows his shit. He had a once over with my stuff and said that everything was salvageable. I have since spent about $350 of money that I should have spent on new ARP hardware, ACL trimetal bearings, and a new set of rings.
Duplicolor Hight Heat Semi-Gloss Black? Any clear?
Pardon me for all the questions, but I pulled my motor and I'm also looking to freshen up my engine bay but was wondering how others did it (What paint, various lines, etc)
Holy poop Tom! I completely missed the part of this thread where you spun a bearing!!! Now it makes sense. Sorry to hear though, but I feel your pain. You're luck those parts are salvegable. I still have yet to remove the block/trans from my car. Everything else is out including the head (thanks for the help). Your block you gave me is on the engine stand halfway stripped. Since the evo accident I havn't had much time to work on her. But now I need to buy another car (which I will be picking up next week) and money is even tighter than before. However the new car should save me money on car payments AND gas so I should save up for the Talon motor no problem.
Let me know how it goes with that place in Parsippany. Maybe they can do some work for me since that's pretty local for me and I grew up in Parsippany. Have fun on your trip (jerk) and good luck with the re-build.
Holy poop Tom! I completely missed the part of this thread where you spun a bearing!!! Now it makes sense. Sorry to hear though, but I feel your pain. You're luck those parts are salvegable. I still have yet to remove the block/trans from my car. Everything else is out including the head (thanks for the help). Your block you gave me is on the engine stand halfway stripped. Since the evo accident I havn't had much time to work on her. But now I need to buy another car (which I will be picking up next week) and money is even tighter than before. However the new car should save me money on car payments AND gas so I should save up for the Talon motor no problem.
Let me know how it goes with that place in Parsippany. Maybe they can do some work for me since that's pretty local for me and I grew up in Parsippany. Have fun on your trip (jerk) and good luck with the re-build.
I hope you're getting your 2.3 build on the way. If you need assembling, just let me know. As for machining, Rob Hutton @ Edwin Automotive in Parsippany is freakin awesome. He was a bit pricey, but that's because I asked him to spend A LOT of time building this block as perfect as he could. He understood and respected my request for good work and I think he billed me appropriately.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourreGsixty3
Damn Tom, you better get into the 11s soon as your motor comes back! lol The bay looks good too!
Tell me about it 11's have eluded my for 2 years now and even with my setup it still kicks my ass. It's not the cars fault ,though, I just suck at piloting
Quote:
Originally Posted by squeak10686
What do you suspect the cause of spinning the bearing was, I know what makes a bearing spin, but what do you believe happened?
I honestly don't know what went wrong with the motor. It may be due to the block being mysteriously rehoned without new rings (entirely possible, don't ask), lack of oil pressure from me not paying attenion, or maybe just an aggressive tune @ 30psi and 19* timing, but with 1* knock. Who knows.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90laserRSfwd
I know this thread hasn't been posted in since the beginning of August but I was just wondering how your making out man?
I just got back from vaca and parts are being ordered very soon. Since then, I have had the block rebuilt by a local (great) machinist and built to a spec that I researched and requested using yet better quality parts (ACL trimetal mains&rod bearings, ARP main, ARP rod, new virgin 90 crank, recon'd rod) and built to spec with a spec sheet. No second guessing with this motor and it will be put together shortly with new OEM gaskets and a newer sprung 6 puck clutch disc. No reason to replace the disc, i just figure I'd replace it as I'm rebuilding. The build will take place within the next week or so and I'll be sure to snap photos to continue my build log.
Tom - good to see you're going back @ it. I'm eager to see how it turns out. My car blew up again, I ended up taking it to JNZ to find a blown FIAV line and blown headgasket. The head and block are getting checked for straightness and then reassembled.
I got the new external gate and big blue spring installed. so once I get it running and get a little money, I'll probably get in touch with you for assistance in getting my e316g rebuilt and setup for external gate as well as a few other quirks - im gonna try to get that high 11 with stickies on the front...ill be checking in on this thread though. keep it up, and keep in touch!
Good to hear you're right back to work after vaca Tom. Unfortunately I scrapped the 2.3L build project for now as a bunch of financial dilemmas have hit me and I need to start planning/saving for the future house I want to buy. So I decided to get the car running on the cheap so it's not sitting for years. I picked up a used 6 bolt shortblock on the cheap that's in good condition and is sitting in my garage. I need to order some more parts including a head gasket, water pump, water pipe, and FPR, etc. I need to pick a weekend to borrow/rent an engine hoist and swap the blocks in/out the car. Then I just need to drill out the holes for the head studs and slap it all together and pray I didn't screw anything up. Once my life is less hectic and I have the money to do exactly what I want, I'll build the monster 2.4L (yes, I want as much displacement as possible) I've always wanted.
Anyway, good luck with your re-build. I'll sure to be calling you in the upcoming months for torque specs, lube advice, etc.
Tom - good to see you're going back @ it. I'm eager to see how it turns out. My car blew up again, I ended up taking it to JNZ to find a blown FIAV line and blown headgasket. The head and block are getting checked for straightness and then reassembled.
I got the new external gate and big blue spring installed. so once I get it running and get a little money, I'll probably get in touch with you for assistance in getting my e316g rebuilt and setup for external gate as well as a few other quirks - im gonna try to get that high 11 with stickies on the front...ill be checking in on this thread though. keep it up, and keep in touch!
Damn, it seems everyone is blowing up this season. I hope you get your car back as soon as you can. Definitely let me know if you need any help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TuRBoTaLooN
Good to hear you're right back to work after vaca Tom. Unfortunately I scrapped the 2.3L build project for now as a bunch of financial dilemmas have hit me and I need to start planning/saving for the future house I want to buy. So I decided to get the car running on the cheap so it's not sitting for years. I picked up a used 6 bolt shortblock on the cheap that's in good condition and is sitting in my garage. I need to order some more parts including a head gasket, water pump, water pipe, and FPR, etc. I need to pick a weekend to borrow/rent an engine hoist and swap the blocks in/out the car. Then I just need to drill out the holes for the head studs and slap it all together and pray I didn't screw anything up. Once my life is less hectic and I have the money to do exactly what I want, I'll build the monster 2.4L (yes, I want as much displacement as possible) I've always wanted.
Anyway, good luck with your re-build. I'll sure to be calling you in the upcoming months for torque specs, lube advice, etc.
Well, if you didn't buy 3 cars every month, you'd be OK no jk, I hope you get your finances situated (I'm sure you remember I'm in hot water too) and get everything on the road. I've been realizing lately that the money sunk into this car is never going to be seen again and am kind of taken aback by it, but it's still worth it to me and I'm still crossing my fingers to hear that sweet exhaust note again in hopefully less than a week. As for your 6 bolt swap, I already have a 2g motor mount bracket clearanced for the 1G waterpiope (had a spare), so you can have them to help you get on the road if you want. Also, boring out the head for 12mm studs is .47244", so you can just use a nice 1/2" drill bit and get that straightened out yourself. After I get my car up and running, I'll see if I can get my buddy to let me lend his hoist out and you can def hold on to my engine stand if you need.
As for my car, the build was costly at the beginning and I just ordered the final gaskets to get the car up and running. I skipped on getting a new clutch disc because, as usual, it's overkill for just getting the car running. Finances dictate that I take it easy for now and just put the quality parts I bought in the beginning, instead of upgrading freakin everything. At about $1200 later, I hope my talon will see the road again for another month before she goes back in the garage for the winter
Well, if you didn't buy 3 cars every month, you'd be OK no jk, I hope you get your finances situated (I'm sure you remember I'm in hot water too) and get everything on the road. I've been realizing lately that the money sunk into this car is never going to be seen again and am kind of taken aback by it, but it's still worth it to me and I'm still crossing my fingers to hear that sweet exhaust note again in hopefully less than a week. As for your 6 bolt swap, I already have a 2g motor mount bracket clearanced for the 1G waterpiope (had a spare), so you can have them to help you get on the road if you want. Also, boring out the head for 12mm studs is .47244", so you can just use a nice 1/2" drill bit and get that straightened out yourself. After I get my car up and running, I'll see if I can get my buddy to let me lend his hoist out and you can def hold on to my engine stand if you need.
Thanks! I'll definitely take that motor mount from you and pay you if you want. Any other "6 bolt swap" stuff you have or can source would be great. I have an engine stand (which your old 7 bolt currently resides until T picks it up) that I'll stick the 6 bolt on to put together. I'll just need to borrow the hoist for a weekend to take the old out swap the accessories over, and drop in the new one. Then I can take my time putting the head on, intake, turbo, pipes, blah blah blah. I'm hoping this can happen by November
3pm get home and get these packages. My freshly cleaned up and CNC'd JMF SMIM and a whole buncha gaskets I needed from extreme. I did a shitty job polishing it (its not treated well ) so I guess someone from JMF felt bad and repolished it for me.
Still wondering if I'm going to get away with this oil pressure line (used a spare oil feed line)
gaskets:
Most importantly, before I started, it's great to spend some time organizing and cleaning/drying everything.
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 09-03-2008 at 11:00 PM.
Since I went through it already, I'm just going to blow by all this stuff
rear main gasket, torqued to 10 ft/lb
Believe it or not, this stinkin thing was leaking very slightly. JBWelded it this time around:
stuck the engine stand on:
view of the newly machined to spec shortblock. I got new ACL trimetal bearings, ARP main + rod studs, & ross piston rings along with a hone and recon'd rod 1.
motor mount bracket (pre clearanced for 6 bolt water pump, PITA) installed with timing tensioner (finger tight) pulley and idler pulley (35 ft/lb)
balancer sprocket installed:
good thing things get dirty! you can tell which side of the cam trigger plate goes on.
crank sprocket put on, step back:
spare -4an - 1/8NPT adapter I found:
remote line installed:
Moving onto the head studs, no matter how clean the block looks from hot tanking, TAP the threads of the heatstuds or else you will risk getting a false reading while torquing due to foreign matter getting stuck in there. For a 6 bolt, tap size is M12x1.25
shiny threads, remember to use air to blow out the dust/debris from tapping.
cleaned and dried head studs. I put the studs in with blue loctite last time, I am installing them dry this time. If you tap the threads, the studs should only require the force of two fingers to put them in place. If you have to use more force, then theres probably still crap in there. Use lots of ARP moly lube on the top threads.
Got to say great build......just one thing looks a miss.....
The battery relocation you did looks as if it will hamper your tranny installation a bit...at least from this angle of the picture may be hard to stab the bolt thu and tighten it up..
on new ARP hardware, ACL trimetal bearings, and a new set of rings.
no jk, I hope you get your finances situated (I'm sure you remember I'm in hot water too) and get everything on the road. I've been realizing lately that the money sunk into this car is never going to be seen again and am kind of taken aback by it, but it's still worth it to me and I'm still crossing my fingers to hear that sweet exhaust note again in hopefully less than a week. As for your 6 bolt swap, I already have a 2g motor mount bracket clearanced for the 1G waterpiope (had a spare), so you can have them to help you get on the road if you want. Also, boring out the head for 12mm studs is .47244", so you can just use a nice 1/2" drill bit and get that straightened out yourself. After I get my car up and running, I'll see if I can get my buddy to let me lend his hoist out and you can def hold on to my engine stand if you need. 
) so I guess someone from JMF felt bad and repolished it for me.
