Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[blcknspo0ln]

I had a mega-bitch time putting the hard lines back on, I must have bent them when I removed the engine.



Solution? Upgrade it I also did a bit of research on removing the accumulator and as defiant says, it will not be missed after I remove it.



I aimed it upright so that I can have access to the bleed port when I rebleed the clutch. I just moved the line in between the engine mount, instead of below. When you buy a new one, it comes with 2 new crush washers and banjo (14mm).


I'm not sure why it's so long.


Flare (line, crow feet, whatever you want to call it) wrenches need to be used here. THE NUT WILL STRIP if you try to use an open ended wrench on it. Sizes are 10mm and 18mm for the two sides.

[blcknspo0ln]

Test fitted and drilled new mounting holes for the JMF oil catch can (thanks Rich!)


Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle.


tilt your head to the left


You can make out both arms here:


lateral arm (it's a long bolt and nut)

[b00stedtalon2]

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

[blcknspo0ln]

TB rebuild! I'm still waiting on new shaft seals from JNZ, but it's the same concept for putting it back together.

Remove the TPS and you get this, take the 10mm bolt out and don't lose the lock washer!


Here's a machv shaft seal


Switch to the other side of the TB where the cable ear is. Take a sharpy and make 2 lines on both sides of the springs, this way you know how many revolutions you need to go back to correct tension. Remove the 12mm bolt.


Just wiggle the ear off and the plastic under it:


Other side of the TB:
[IMG]

Now, find a phillips head bit that is the correct size for the bolts. These are a major PITA because they strip all of the time. The easiest way I've found to do this is with an electric drill. Use the drill and put all of your wait on the bolt before you start loosening it. This way theres little chance the bolt will strip. In my case, I put red loctite last rebuild and this is what I had to deal with .



Sucks. I drilled 2 holes with a #19 bit, so I could later tap with a 5 x .8 bit.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

[blcknspo0ln]

If you had good luck, the bolts came out nice and easy. Now take a sharpy and mark the intake and exhaust side of the plate. I like putting the up arrow on both sides so I know for sure the orientation of the plate once I have to reinstall.

Take a rubber mallet and tap the throttle plate out.


Here's a nice comparison. I had a spare 2g plate and it's much easier to visualize the plates next to each other instead of comparing whole TB's. Second pic is the two shaft differences, 1G on the left, 2g on the right.



Once the plate is out, just tap the shaft out:


Now take a flat head and pop the shaft seals out. If I remember correctly, stock seals are metal, so it'll take a bit of playing with to get em out.


I cleaned it up a bit with a dremel and pad:

[b00stedtalon2]

Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

Yeah not a problem. On another note, the build looks great! Keep up the good work.

[turbosax2]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

The full line is unnecessary. The only reason to get the full line is if you broke the hard line.

The point of the SS braided line is to prevent the rubber from flexing and expanding [and to eliminate the accumulator]. Other than that little rubber section, the rest of the Clutch hydraulic system (or the pressurized side of it anyways) uses hardlines, so they won't flex

[blcknspo0ln]

Unscrew the BISS all the way out. It'll start to spin in place at the top, all you need to do is get something small and push the BISS the rest of the way out.


new BISSS and Oring from extremepsi. My old one is only 2500 miles old, but better safe than sorry I guess. Make sure it's lubed (I used white lithium grease) before you install.



Time to tap the shaft. Again, I used a #19 drill bit and then a 5mm x .080mm bit with a 10mm long bolt.


A little unorthodox, but using a drill is much easier than hand tapping. I just make sure I put it in reverse every couple of revolutions.



I used new bolts that are flat headed instead of phillips head, I will be using blue loctite this time around.

[b00stedtalon2]

When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.

[turbosax2]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.

Probably due to bleeding the clutch and the elimination of the accumulator. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just maybe not worth the money.

[blcknspo0ln]

My dumptube exits right next to the oil return line and I wasn't very comfortable with that. So after some research, I went to autozone and bought 1.5" exhaust flex tubing. This stuff is awesome and only costs 5 bucks!! Don't mind the ghetto "bottom out" shield on my downpipe



As she sits now. Everything is ready to go, I'm just waiting for the shaft seals to complete the entire project

[tqmx1]

Well well when is it going to make noise??? It's looking GOOD

[fwdeclipse]

I asked a bit earlier I was curious where you got your 02 housing from, it looks like a custom made one.

[90laserRSfwd]

yeah looks awesome man, can't wait to hear results.. after reading your thread I want to go kick my fathers truck out of the garage and tear my motor apart and max out the credit cards!!! lol... I love reading these build threads, especially when people document all the details as well as you do...

[turbosax2]

You should loop the throttle cable underneath the smim. It's a much cleaner look and you can remove the two brackets for the cable on the fuel rail.

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post!

[tqmx1]

Originally Posted by turbosax2

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post!

1001 You will self destruct.