Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[blcknspo0ln]

I had a mega-bitch time putting the hard lines back on, I must have bent them when I removed the engine.



Solution? Upgrade it I also did a bit of research on removing the accumulator and as defiant says, it will not be missed after I remove it.



I aimed it upright so that I can have access to the bleed port when I rebleed the clutch. I just moved the line in between the engine mount, instead of below. When you buy a new one, it comes with 2 new crush washers and banjo (14mm).


I'm not sure why it's so long.


Flare (line, crow feet, whatever you want to call it) wrenches need to be used here. THE NUT WILL STRIP if you try to use an open ended wrench on it. Sizes are 10mm and 18mm for the two sides.

[blcknspo0ln]

Test fitted and drilled new mounting holes for the JMF oil catch can (thanks Rich!)


Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle.


tilt your head to the left


You can make out both arms here:


lateral arm (it's a long bolt and nut)

[b00stedtalon2]

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

[blcknspo0ln]

TB rebuild! I'm still waiting on new shaft seals from JNZ, but it's the same concept for putting it back together.

Remove the TPS and you get this, take the 10mm bolt out and don't lose the lock washer!


Here's a machv shaft seal


Switch to the other side of the TB where the cable ear is. Take a sharpy and make 2 lines on both sides of the springs, this way you know how many revolutions you need to go back to correct tension. Remove the 12mm bolt.


Just wiggle the ear off and the plastic under it:


Other side of the TB:
[IMG]

Now, find a phillips head bit that is the correct size for the bolts. These are a major PITA because they strip all of the time. The easiest way I've found to do this is with an electric drill. Use the drill and put all of your wait on the bolt before you start loosening it. This way theres little chance the bolt will strip. In my case, I put red loctite last rebuild and this is what I had to deal with .



Sucks. I drilled 2 holes with a #19 bit, so I could later tap with a 5 x .8 bit.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

[blcknspo0ln]

If you had good luck, the bolts came out nice and easy. Now take a sharpy and mark the intake and exhaust side of the plate. I like putting the up arrow on both sides so I know for sure the orientation of the plate once I have to reinstall.

Take a rubber mallet and tap the throttle plate out.


Here's a nice comparison. I had a spare 2g plate and it's much easier to visualize the plates next to each other instead of comparing whole TB's. Second pic is the two shaft differences, 1G on the left, 2g on the right.



Once the plate is out, just tap the shaft out:


Now take a flat head and pop the shaft seals out. If I remember correctly, stock seals are metal, so it'll take a bit of playing with to get em out.


I cleaned it up a bit with a dremel and pad:

[b00stedtalon2]

Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

Yeah not a problem. On another note, the build looks great! Keep up the good work.

[turbosax2]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

The full line is unnecessary. The only reason to get the full line is if you broke the hard line.

The point of the SS braided line is to prevent the rubber from flexing and expanding [and to eliminate the accumulator]. Other than that little rubber section, the rest of the Clutch hydraulic system (or the pressurized side of it anyways) uses hardlines, so they won't flex

[blcknspo0ln]

Unscrew the BISS all the way out. It'll start to spin in place at the top, all you need to do is get something small and push the BISS the rest of the way out.


new BISSS and Oring from extremepsi. My old one is only 2500 miles old, but better safe than sorry I guess. Make sure it's lubed (I used white lithium grease) before you install.



Time to tap the shaft. Again, I used a #19 drill bit and then a 5mm x .080mm bit with a 10mm long bolt.


A little unorthodox, but using a drill is much easier than hand tapping. I just make sure I put it in reverse every couple of revolutions.



I used new bolts that are flat headed instead of phillips head, I will be using blue loctite this time around.

[b00stedtalon2]

When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.

[turbosax2]

Originally Posted by b00stedtalon2

When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.

Probably due to bleeding the clutch and the elimination of the accumulator. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just maybe not worth the money.

[blcknspo0ln]

My dumptube exits right next to the oil return line and I wasn't very comfortable with that. So after some research, I went to autozone and bought 1.5" exhaust flex tubing. This stuff is awesome and only costs 5 bucks!! Don't mind the ghetto "bottom out" shield on my downpipe



As she sits now. Everything is ready to go, I'm just waiting for the shaft seals to complete the entire project

[tqmx1]

Well well when is it going to make noise??? It's looking GOOD

[fwdeclipse]

I asked a bit earlier I was curious where you got your 02 housing from, it looks like a custom made one.

[90laserRSfwd]

yeah looks awesome man, can't wait to hear results.. after reading your thread I want to go kick my fathers truck out of the garage and tear my motor apart and max out the credit cards!!! lol... I love reading these build threads, especially when people document all the details as well as you do...

[turbosax2]

You should loop the throttle cable underneath the smim. It's a much cleaner look and you can remove the two brackets for the cable on the fuel rail.

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post!

[tqmx1]

Originally Posted by turbosax2

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post!

1001 You will self destruct.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by tqmx1

Well well when is it going to make noise??? It's looking GOOD

Not soon enough. Literally, the only thing holding me back from a startup is the shaft seals. I can throw the TB back together with the old ones, but running a known boost leak would defeat the purpose of my entire build

Originally Posted by fwdeclipse

I asked a bit earlier I was curious where you got your 02 housing from, it looks like a custom made one.

Yup, it's custom. I bought it off a fellow DSMer and he says its from 122 performance.

Originally Posted by 90laserRSfwd

yeah looks awesome man, can't wait to hear results.. after reading your thread I want to go kick my fathers truck out of the garage and tear my motor apart and max out the credit cards!!! lol... I love reading these build threads, especially when people document all the details as well as you do...

yes, it's time to max out the credit cards. I know I threw my $$ under the bus as soon as I started planning this in September. I had a whole 2 months to save up and it only accounted for half the money I put in.

Originally Posted by turbosax2

You should loop the throttle cable underneath the smim. It's a much cleaner look and you can remove the two brackets for the cable on the fuel rail.

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post!

Happy 1000th post to you! That was sooooo 2004 buddy As far as looping the lines, I never even though of that. Thanks!

[fwdeclipse]

You could just go down to the home depot and buy the o rings for the shaft seals.

[99gst_racer]

Awesome TB comparison pics. I never realized what a difference in thickness the plates were.

It also wouldn't hurt to mushroom the ends of those screws on the TB shaft to assure that they will never work themselves loose. I've seen it too many times where one screw backs out and takes out a piston and a couple valves.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by fwdeclipse

You could just go down to the home depot and buy the o rings for the shaft seals.

Been there done that. Either I don't know which seals to buy, or I'm just plain retarded. The O rings always ended up leaking when I tried them. It's ok though, JNZ is usually pretty good with their turn around time. I got them today and ordered Friday.

Originally Posted by 99gst_racer

It also wouldn't hurt to mushroom the ends of those screws on the TB shaft to assure that they will never work themselves loose. I've seen it too many times where one screw backs out and takes out a piston and a couple valves.

Yea, it's nice to have a ballpeen hammer handy. I bought screws that fit exactly, so there wasn't any of the ends left to beat up. I just kind of bit the bullet and used red loctite again. Hopefully I won't be that guy who makes a thread about a piston exploding soon.

[blcknspo0ln]

Almost done!

TB shaft seals came in, here's how to put it back together.


I put the seal facing IN and used an 8mm socket to press it into place, no grease was used.



Lube the shaft. I used white lithium grease, anything will really work here.


Note the orientation of the shaft. The shortest end goes where the TPS will bolt to.

[blcknspo0ln]

Spin the shaft on its side, so you can slide the plate in. DO NOT use a metal hammer on this plate. It is very soft and you can easily dent the plate and make it not seal correctly. I used a mallet for this.



Again, making sharpie notes on everything always helps.


You have to play with the plate a bit to get the holes to line up. Then just bolt her down. I used new screws and red loctite.



Here's the most PITA process of putting a TB together. Put the spring on, make sure the hook gets put on the post.


Slide the larger one over it.


Put the green spring inside the plastic casing here.

[blcknspo0ln]

NOW STOP! Instead of fighting with pliers, needle noses, clamps, fingers, etc. Just ziptie the two top hooks together. I found out by chance today that it was by far the EASIEST way of getting these stupid coils together. Now hold the ziptie in one hand and spin the TB, while pushing down on the plastic thing. Once you get the lines you previously made with your sharpie in line (usually 2 full rotations), put the hooks onto the ear.





Final product:


Bolted her down with the TB elbow:


I rushed along and bolted this stuff fairly quickly:
UICP with new hump hose from extremepsi
battery
FP intake pipe
home made CAI

For anyone who wants to know, it's just a 4" 90* PVC pipe (painted black), 4" fernco coupler (plumbing aisle) and a 4" KN filter.
JMF cans. Conveniently enough, the visteon radiator leaves PERFECT room for the arm on the JMF coolant can.

[blcknspo0ln]

Moving my throttle cable really did clean things up


Quick shot of how much room I still have


*DRUM ROLL PLEASE*
The final product!

[ludevtec93]

nice.. do i hear 11.5's or better this season??

[tqmx1]

I know and now your jumping up and down COME ON SPRING!!

I forgot to say, arn't those throttle return springs a real BITCH!

[Mikael SS]

if you have any issues with the clutch, put the slave back so the bleeder is on top. If you look at all brake calipers, the bleeder is always on top, since you might get an air bubble stuck in there.

[DsmDave95]

this is my bible

[oldman]

Dude, I have 20 sets of shaft seals sitting right in front of me.

Is it running yet?