Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild - Page 3

blcknspo0ln · 12-24-2007, 09:46 PM

Well, I decided to be productive and got some extra material and made a nice battery tie down. I was going to relocate it down to the firewall area, but figured, hell, it's not that important to do it; Plus it'd take a lot more effort. In case anyone is wondering, you have to get a smaller battery or relocate your stock battery when you get an SMIM (or at least the JMF one). This is the Duralast GOLD battery from a 2000+ civic. Same cranking/amp power as the stock battery, but half the size.

90* aluminum strap
aluminum bar
5/16-18 full threaded rod
nuts
fender washers
2 wing nuts
self-tapping screws
Cost ~$13

I eyeballed everything but it came out great.

Painted the bottom straps black for OEM look.

This isn't as fancy as JMF's bling kit, but it works!

romeen · 12-24-2007, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Ever have mini-throw up? Or felt that sinking feeling in your stomach? Well, that was my Merry Christmas EVE

I filled up the engine with some regular pennzoil 10w-30 non-syn and was ready to prime the engine before putting the tbelt on. I go and grab the air ratchet and put on my 14mm wrench. All of a sudden while I'm letting the pump spin and looking for oil to plumb to the head, my hand gets wet with oil. W...T...F...?? I look down to see this. A nice HUGE crack at the castle plug area. Wait, did I over torque it? No.. I have no idea why it split like this and it lead to another 2 hours of down time pulling off the oil pan, crank pulley bolt, etc. and finally removed the front case. I'm going to call extremepsi on wednesday and hopefully they can work out a warranty or something. I wouldn't mind buying a new one if it was my fault, but I can't see how any of the work I did caused this thing to crack.

Shit, since I have been following this thread so closely even I just got a sick feeling in my stomach for you. I think most DSM'ers have one of these stories that makes no sense and causes you to lose it. Sorry to hear that.

Nonetheless, better now than when you're driving down the road.

1gnasty · 12-25-2007, 08:32 AM

dam tom tha sucks, that had to be a factory defect i never seen a case brake like that, as far as the rest of the build goes the car is looking great man

90laserRSfwd · 12-25-2007, 04:53 PM

great thread, nice info on the battery too.. glad to here I don't have to spend $200 on a small battery kit when I install my SMIM from JM Fab.

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romeen

Shit, since I have been following this thread so closely even I just got a sick feeling in my stomach for you. I think most DSM'ers have one of these stories that makes no sense and causes you to lose it. Sorry to hear that.

Nonetheless, better now than when you're driving down the road.

Now that I've recovered from that nasty surprise, I agree. It sucks when it happens, but at least its over with. Hung @ extremepsi is seeking a warranty for me, so I hope that goes through

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1gnasty

dam tom tha sucks, that had to be a factory defect i never seen a case brake like that, as far as the rest of the build goes the car is looking great man

Yea Juan, that's what I'm thinking too. I guess we'll all find out what Mitsu decides in the next coming days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90laserRSfwd

great thread, nice info on the battery too.. glad to here I don't have to spend $200 on a small battery kit when I install my SMIM from JM Fab.

Thanks

JMFab hands down has an awesome kit, but if you're a cheapass like me, this works too

Starting off, I promised bruce (oldman) that I'd get the proper timing tin covers on the next build, so here they are! damn, I think this is the first time I've ever used 'em.

You can see the left and two right ones pretty clearly here.

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:28 PM

Front case : take 2

Got the new one in from extremepsi; here we go again..

A lot of people have suspected that the first case front case gave because of excess pressure and/or contact with the castle plug and BSE stub, but to be sure, the bolt has to be on the inside lip. I did that the first time, but it doesn't hurt double checking.

BSE parts:

Castle plug installed. Again, hand tightened with high temp sealant and then hammer/flat headed into place.

Replacing the balance shaft seal with the plug:

Putting the oil gear and stub shaft in should be flush against the casing:

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:32 PM

A nice recommendation was to make sure the oil pump casing was flush to the front casing surface without any pressure or aid. I had to wiggle it a bit, but here she is. Again, blue loctited bolts to 18 ft/lb.

The oil pump gear has a slot that you have to line up on the shaft in order to slide it down:

I used blue loctite this time because it was a major PITA to get the red loctited bolt off. I guess it really does its job

Hold it down and torque the nut with a 12mm wrench to 28 ft/lb.

Another new alignment pin:

New gasket, I've gotten really good at judging the tackiness/time frame

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:34 PM

Again, a little wiggling, but the front case should mate to the block (flush) without much effort.

Balance shaft sprocket:

Crank trigger plate:

Crank sprocket:

Oil pan is back on:

Oil return:

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:38 PM

I won't spend too much time on the timing belt, procedure outlined here:
Pictorial: Installing/Timing a timing belt (6bolt/2g)

For those who don't know what gap you're measuring:

My ubercool powdercoated cam gears

I put the throttle body on. It has no FIAV with the blockoff plate from JMF and this is with an SSAC TB elbow.

blcknspo0ln · 12-29-2007, 10:44 PM

I put the timing belt covers on. If anyone is wondering, those large gashes are a result of the AC tensioner slipping and causing near fatal death to my timing belt last summer. I have since cut the timing cover into two sections because it makes taking the lower cover off when the engine in the car much much easier.

Running new vacuum hose. Remember that the vacuum line going to the brake boost has a check valve in it. DO NOT FORGET!!! You cannot have positive pressure going back into your brake booster.

Tidying up and gearing for the trans and engine installation

Now I just have to get the cherry picker back from my friend.

Patiently waiting...

I forgot to put spark plugs in. Here's the good ol' "gap to .028 picture"

Using a feeler gauge IMHO is a much more accurate way of gapping plugs.

123bobby123 · 12-30-2007, 09:58 AM

Looks awesome.

Bill

fwdeclipse · 12-30-2007, 10:25 AM

Aewsome thread I love these. BTW where did you get that o2 housing or did you make it. It looks custom.

Jst4Cyl · 12-31-2007, 01:50 AM

Are you using an OEM front case or Topline?

Also try Never Dull made by Eagle the next time you go to polish a shiny metal or such, made my Magnus shine up real nice.

BTW, it's looking great

StockBiotchs · 12-31-2007, 10:34 PM

Nice post and build...

BlackWhiteBeast · 01-01-2008, 05:57 PM

Very impressive build. It should run strong!

90laserRSfwd · 01-01-2008, 10:32 PM

Nice thread, but you put the bolt on the alternator on backwards! the long one that has an almost square head.. the square head is supposed to be held in place by that little lip on the alternator bracket! just thought I'd point that out for you....

blcknspo0ln · 01-01-2008, 10:40 PM

Thanks again for the support guys

BTW, if anyone has any constructive comments, don't keep them to yourselves! I'd love to know if there are things you all would have done differently.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl

Are you using an OEM front case or Topline?

Also try Never Dull made by Eagle the next time you go to polish a shiny metal or such, made my Magnus shine up real nice.

BTW, it's looking great

Thanks for the suggestion

As far as front cases, the two that I've used on this build were brand new OEM units purchased through extremepsi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90laserRSfwd