I greased the crankshaft prior to putting the front case in. Here's a pic of new guide pins for the block/front case:
Note the orientation of the balance shaft sprocket and crank trigger plate:
This is how I've always torqued that stupid crank bolt down. Just stuff a bunch of rags in the crank until it doesn't spin anymore. I used red loctite and torqued to 60 ft/lb on the bolt.
When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak.
Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit larger:
Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank? Sadly enough, I don't know if it was like that prior to my build or if the machine shop just did it
straight forward, I cleaned it off and used some "great stuff" and a new felpro gasket, torqued all bolts to 10 ft/lb.
Cleaned it off:
Note the orientation of the bolts. There are TWO that are shorter than the rest. These two bolts need to be used under the oil pump sprocket and the one next to it. If you can imagine, if they are too long, they will make contact with the timing belt.
ARP: I used blue loctite where the stud goes to the block, finger tightened and snugged with a hex wrench (don't apply too much torque to just the stud/head). put moly lube on the top threads (where the nut will go).
set the engine at somewhere BTDC:
STOP! If you are running aftermarket springs/retainers in your head, read on. At least in my case, the BC springs/retainers are a bit larger than stock so the ARP washer won't go all the way down when the stud is in the head. So, before you put the head on, drop the arp washer in each respective slot. You can see clearly here why this needs to be done prior to putting the head on. I used a screwdriver to point and slide the washers on, it's much easier than trying to eyeball or needle nose them into position.
Ok, now that the washers are in, I sprayed the headgakset about 4 layers worth on each side.
Now carefully slide the head on, watch the washers so they don't get pushed out by the headstud!!
Turbo was all put together, so I just needed to clean off the gasket (get Permatex gasket remover, that stuff WILL TAKE OFF ANYTHING!!) and put her back together. I like using some copper high temp RTV on exhaust parts, some people don't, some people do.
The shop put a plug in here as a precaution, since I'm running the oil feed from the head, it obviously has to come out.
Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank
Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.
____________________________
-Paul Volk-
'99 GSX
'91 TSI
Last edited by 99gst_racer; 12-21-2007 at 02:36 PM.
Reason: horrendous typo
awsome thread, you do some good work there Tom, i use alot of your threads as a refrence to alot of things i do, and this thread will be bookmarked on my comp. build came out very nice. congrats
-Dave
Thanks for the support guys, I did a bunch more work today, but i'm too lazy to post it just this second.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99gst_racer
Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.
Thanks Paul. I guessed that was the reason, but the amount of drilling/welding seemed very overwhelming to me. Oh well, now I know.
Beautiful build so far Tom. Powdercoated parts are definitely a plus. I'm curious though. Why did you go external? Better boost control?
Yup. I didn't feel like dicking around with the adjustable wastegate that PTE supplies, so I just went external. I figured the gate would be useful for the next turbo I get anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by welfle18
Gives me hope and courage to do my own build here soon!! Keep up the good work man and love the color scheme you got going on. Looks sharp!
That's the whole purpose of this thread. I think a lot of people are too scared to do engine work because it's foreign to them. I love taking and making pictorials because it brings light to things. Once you see it in front of you, it's not hard at all. Time, knowledge, and patience will net you the best things
Continuing on... I found a barbed 1/4"fitting for the water feed for my turbo. Put my autometer water temp sensor in and put OEM sensors.
I put my JMF coil pack bracket on. I had to switch to two smaller 10mm bolts to fit it on.
I guess I'm just another victim of rushing, even though I've tried to take this project as slow as I can. I had to put the power steering bracket on and had to remove the water pipe to do it. I pulled it out and put a new layer of hylomar on there for good measure.
Bolted on the oil return line, First I cleaned off the crap on the oil pan with gasket remove (this stuff is really nasty, I got it on my skin and it instantly burned). I used black RTV and an OEM gasket along with the little 6mm bolts (yes defiant, one day I'll tap it to SAE )
Put the alternator on. It's just a really long 8x1.25 bolt and nut for the pivot and about a 8x1.25x50 bolt for the bracket/water pump.
Bolted the knock sensor on. I used red loctite.
Bolted the JMF SMIM on . It's dirty and beat up, so I did my best to polish it up with some rags and mother's mag. I have a heat barrier gasket and used black RTV and copper spray on both sides of this. I used blue loctite on the bolts and torqued to 20 ft/lb on the smaller bolts and 25 ft/lb on the larger (14mm head) bolts.
I like putting the bottom seal on the head and then inserting the fuel injector into the seal. This is my foolproof way of installing these things. I torqued the fuel rail bolts to 18 ft/lb.
back to the turbo, here's my FP manifold, PTE 5031RE with PTE housing, and NT water pipe. No beating up this time to make it fit.
I put grease on the Oring on the dip stick tube and had to bend it to nearly straight to make it fit. The bracket bolts to the bottom of the power steering bracket, as seen where my socket is.
Tom, have you used the copper RTV on previous setups? Just wondering how it holds up to the intense heat, particularly between head-manifold and manifold-turbo? It's claimed to hold up to 700*F but I thought that our manifold and turbine housings can get hotter than that (maybe I am wrong about that).
Great work on this thread. Very informative and the motor is looking great.
Tom, That is going to be one sweet install. The one very minor thing I spotter was on the AN816 fittings you have installed in the oil filter adaptor the flair fitting end does not need teflon tape. the 37degree flair does all the sealing. Just a touch of antiseize or just plain oil is all that is needed on the threads for assembly. The teflon tends to gum up the works.
Just one of the minor things that sets off warning bells being an old aircraft mechanic.
Tom, have you used the copper RTV on previous setups? Just wondering how it holds up to the intense heat, particularly between head-manifold and manifold-turbo? It's claimed to hold up to 700*F but I thought that our manifold and turbine housings can get hotter than that (maybe I am wrong about that).
Great work on this thread. Very informative and the motor is looking great.
I've used RTV for the past two engine/turbo swaps and the RTV has seemingly held up. I've never really had an exhaust leak so I don't know if it's due to the RTV or the fact that I'm lucky; I'm not too anxious to find out though Oh, when I had an EGT, I saw over 1600*F
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourreGsixty3
Very nice write-up Tom Love the red VC...thats a sexy deep red color. Quality work!!!
You will see a write-up from me coming to this effect soon...keep your eyes open.
Thanks bro It's a blood red over silver base Definitely look forward to a 1G 6 bolt build to drool over!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123bobby123
Awesome work so far man, I really got to get over to your place to "help" you with this, haha.
Bill
Bill, after Christmas I'm gonna be killed with work. I hope you can swing by one of hte nights I get off early!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tqmx1
Tom, That is going to be one sweet install. The one very minor thing I spotter was on the AN816 fittings you have installed in the oil filter adaptor the flair fitting end does not need teflon tape. the 37degree flair does all the sealing. Just a touch of antiseize or just plain oil is all that is needed on the threads for assembly. The teflon tends to gum up the works.
Just one of the minor things that sets off warning bells being an old aircraft mechanic.
Hmmm, I've never thought of that. I've always used teflon tape on the AN threads. I have to run oil through the engine so I'll give it a try without the teflon
Yes you never use teflon tape or sealant on AN fittings. If for some reason oil made it past the 37 degree flare it would leak through the swivel on the hose end anyhow. And you put in the alternator bolt in backwards. The square end towards the timing and the nub on the alternator will hold it in place. Otherwise i think this is one the best write ups i have seen.
Very VERY informative....damn!
I have a question tho, not really pertaining to your build persay...but what would you say the easiest way to get the red fittings onto braided line would be....and w/out scratching the hell out of them?!~?
____________________________
ex SBR L.J.
476/441 Stock 7 bolt
Yes you never use teflon tape or sealant on AN fittings. If for some reason oil made it past the 37 degree flare it would leak through the swivel on the hose end anyhow. And you put in the alternator bolt in backwards. The square end towards the timing and the nub on the alternator will hold it in place. Otherwise i think this is one the best write ups i have seen.
Thanks for the tip on the AN fittings, I've always used teflon, but I'll give it a try this time around. As far as the alternator, I put it on backwards intentionally, I like having the nut a little more accessible when it's in the car. I've done it for years without a problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BUCK
PRETTY WORK - thanx~!
Ah, buck. Did you know your write up was the first writeup I ever read that helped me do my first timing belt job? I think that was in 2004 or something. Thanks for that retarded long article you posted years ago
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94Jettameowpsst
Very VERY informative....damn!
I have a question tho, not really pertaining to your build persay...but what would you say the easiest way to get the red fittings onto braided line would be....and w/out scratching the hell out of them?!~?
Are you talking about installing SS braided line onto an AN fitting? To get a nice straight edge, I wrap the hose with a single layer or two of electrical tape (wrap it AS TIGHT as you can, stretch the crap out of it). then I lay it on the floor and get a flat chisel (looks like a thick scraper) and have a huge whack at it with a 2 lb. mallet. This shears the fitting into two pieces as clean as possible. Next i lube the tape up (leave it on the hose) with a bit of oil and push the hose onto the fitting while turning it. It helps to push up against a wall or bench or something.
Ever have mini-throw up? Or felt that sinking feeling in your stomach? Well, that was my Merry Christmas EVE
I filled up the engine with some regular pennzoil 10w-30 non-syn and was ready to prime the engine before putting the tbelt on. I go and grab the air ratchet and put on my 14mm wrench. All of a sudden while I'm letting the pump spin and looking for oil to plumb to the head, my hand gets wet with oil. W...T...F...?? I look down to see this. A nice HUGE crack at the castle plug area. Wait, did I over torque it? No.. I have no idea why it split like this and it lead to another 2 hours of down time pulling off the oil pan, crank pulley bolt, etc. and finally removed the front case. I'm going to call extremepsi on wednesday and hopefully they can work out a warranty or something. I wouldn't mind buying a new one if it was my fault, but I can't see how any of the work I did caused this thing to crack.
Sigh, so my entire engine is sitting upside on the stand in the garage and I literally started throwing stuff around. What a crappy way to end a day.
)
