Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[blcknspo0ln]

When doing the BSE, make sure you put the bolt INSIDE the lip of the gear, not on the flat side. I used red loctite and torqued to 20 ft/lb:


Put lithium grease on the gears:




blue loctite to 18 ft/lb:




Use a 12mm open ended wrench to hold the BSE stub shaft and tighten the oil pump gear bolt down to 30 ft/lb using red loctite:



More copper spray:

[blcknspo0ln]

I greased the crankshaft prior to putting the front case in. Here's a pic of new guide pins for the block/front case:





Note the orientation of the balance shaft sprocket and crank trigger plate:



This is how I've always torqued that stupid crank bolt down. Just stuff a bunch of rags in the crank until it doesn't spin anymore. I used red loctite and torqued to 60 ft/lb on the bolt.



When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak.

[blcknspo0ln]

Oil pickup:

Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit larger:




Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank? Sadly enough, I don't know if it was like that prior to my build or if the machine shop just did it

[blcknspo0ln]

Oil pan gasket:

straight forward, I cleaned it off and used some "great stuff" and a new felpro gasket, torqued all bolts to 10 ft/lb.




Cleaned it off:




Note the orientation of the bolts. There are TWO that are shorter than the rest. These two bolts need to be used under the oil pump sprocket and the one next to it. If you can imagine, if they are too long, they will make contact with the timing belt.

[blcknspo0ln]

Head:

New guide pins from JNZ:




ARP: I used blue loctite where the stud goes to the block, finger tightened and snugged with a hex wrench (don't apply too much torque to just the stud/head). put moly lube on the top threads (where the nut will go).



set the engine at somewhere BTDC:



STOP! If you are running aftermarket springs/retainers in your head, read on. At least in my case, the BC springs/retainers are a bit larger than stock so the ARP washer won't go all the way down when the stud is in the head. So, before you put the head on, drop the arp washer in each respective slot. You can see clearly here why this needs to be done prior to putting the head on. I used a screwdriver to point and slide the washers on, it's much easier than trying to eyeball or needle nose them into position.





Ok, now that the washers are in, I sprayed the headgakset about 4 layers worth on each side.




Now carefully slide the head on, watch the washers so they don't get pushed out by the headstud!!

[blcknspo0ln]

I cleaned the CAS and put a new Oring on.



OFH:
Pretty straight forward, clean both surfaces, new teflon, a bit of black RTV, and copper spray.




2g mounting bracket:


Here's "the cut" you have to make to modify the 2g bracket to accomondate the 1g water pump.




Install the timing idler pulley with red loctite to 35 ft/lb, finger tighten the timing tensioner pulley on.

[blcknspo0ln]

Waterpipe:
I used hylomar on the actual water pump housing and a new Oring for the pipe. This is an NT water pipe, no water provisions.



Here's the bolt everyone complains about when the turbo is on. Just take a swivel socket or a gear wrench to get at it. In this case, it's right there




hmm.. Just had to take a step back:



Thermo housing:

Black RTV, gasket, and more RTV (you're using thin layers right!?)

[blcknspo0ln]

Turbo was all put together, so I just needed to clean off the gasket (get Permatex gasket remover, that stuff WILL TAKE OFF ANYTHING!!) and put her back together. I like using some copper high temp RTV on exhaust parts, some people don't, some people do.





The shop put a plug in here as a precaution, since I'm running the oil feed from the head, it obviously has to come out.





I had to admire my new valve cover



More updates later

[99gst_racer]

Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln

Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank

Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.

[DsmDave95]

awsome thread, you do some good work there Tom, i use alot of your threads as a refrence to alot of things i do, and this thread will be bookmarked on my comp. build came out very nice. congrats
-Dave

[BoostedinSoFla]

Beautiful build so far Tom. Powdercoated parts are definitely a plus. I'm curious though. Why did you go external? Better boost control?

[Nicks2319]

This is one of the most informative threads I've ever seen on Tuners! Keep it up!

[welfle18]

Gives me hope and courage to do my own build here soon!! Keep up the good work man and love the color scheme you got going on. Looks sharp!

[blcknspo0ln]

Thanks for the support guys, I did a bunch more work today, but i'm too lazy to post it just this second.

Originally Posted by 99gst_racer

Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.

Thanks Paul. I guessed that was the reason, but the amount of drilling/welding seemed very overwhelming to me. Oh well, now I know.

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by BoostedinSoFla

Beautiful build so far Tom. Powdercoated parts are definitely a plus. I'm curious though. Why did you go external? Better boost control?

Yup. I didn't feel like dicking around with the adjustable wastegate that PTE supplies, so I just went external. I figured the gate would be useful for the next turbo I get anyway.

Originally Posted by welfle18

Gives me hope and courage to do my own build here soon!! Keep up the good work man and love the color scheme you got going on. Looks sharp!

That's the whole purpose of this thread. I think a lot of people are too scared to do engine work because it's foreign to them. I love taking and making pictorials because it brings light to things. Once you see it in front of you, it's not hard at all. Time, knowledge, and patience will net you the best things

[blcknspo0ln]

Continuing on... I found a barbed 1/4"fitting for the water feed for my turbo. Put my autometer water temp sensor in and put OEM sensors.



I put my JMF coil pack bracket on. I had to switch to two smaller 10mm bolts to fit it on.




I guess I'm just another victim of rushing, even though I've tried to take this project as slow as I can. I had to put the power steering bracket on and had to remove the water pipe to do it. I pulled it out and put a new layer of hylomar on there for good measure.