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05-28-2007, 07:03 PM
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#61 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxtacy
keep up the great work!
It brings back old memories to see another person going through the same thing with such meticulous practices and documentation...
You'll be so happy very soon!
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Thanks, I cant wait to be done and have this thing running already!
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Mike
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05-29-2007, 08:41 AM
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#64 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaboys2ndgen
lookin good mike!
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Thanks!
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Mike
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05-29-2007, 11:06 AM
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#66 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20psimitsu
Looks good, see you have put in a good amount of wrench time.
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Thanks!
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Mike
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05-29-2007, 06:38 PM
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#67 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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I went and worked on my motor today, I got alot done in the short amount of time I was there.
Can someone answer this for me, is this where the knock sensor goes on the back of the 6 bolt block?
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Mike
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05-29-2007, 10:23 PM
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#68 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Registered: May 2003
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Woops you where right its been a long time since I have seen the other side of the motor on my dsm and I was thinking honda which all together the wrong company.
Last edited by 93talontsifwd; 05-31-2007 at 01:18 AM.
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05-29-2007, 11:45 PM
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#69 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93talontsifwd
That would be the wrong hole. See the hole that is right at the top of the block that is where you screw in the knock sensor.
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Do you have a link to something that says thats where it goes? It just doesn't make sense to me. On my 7 bolt block it was right below the #2 cylinder so thats where I would assume it would be on the 6 bolt block? Thanks for the response.
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Mike
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05-30-2007, 12:02 AM
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#71 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Creve Coeur, Missouri
Registered: Feb 2005
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You do have the knock sensor in the correct spot.
Congrats and building what seems to be an awesome setup, can't wait to see some more updates!
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05-30-2007, 12:33 AM
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#72 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Muskegon, Michigan
Registered: Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoolin98
A few more pictures with the valve cover on.
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absolutely beautiful engine!
where did you get that spark plug cover and what did you pay for it by the way?
awesome work bro, hope mine turns out half as nice as yours
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05-30-2007, 01:20 AM
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#73 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Aurora, Colorado
Registered: Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93talontsifwd
That would be the wrong hole. See the hole that is right at the top of the block that is where you screw in the knock sensor.
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He has it in the right spot.
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05-30-2007, 09:14 AM
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#74 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1glaserturbo
You do have the knock sensor in the correct spot.
Congrats and building what seems to be an awesome setup, can't wait to see some more updates!
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Thanks!
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Mike
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05-30-2007, 09:16 AM
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#75 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbi
absolutely beautiful engine!
where did you get that spark plug cover and what did you pay for it by the way?
awesome work bro, hope mine turns out half as nice as yours
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Thanks for the compliment. I bought the spark cover like 3 years ago so I don't remember where I got it from or how much I payed. But I can tell you one thing, I remember it was too much!
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Mike
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05-30-2007, 09:24 AM
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#76 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Earlier in my thread I asked if anyone knew where I should put my temperature sender within the thermostat housing. Here is a few pictures to show you guys what I'm talking about. Should I put it below the thermostat or above? I have seen it done both ways.
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Mike
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05-30-2007, 07:30 PM
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#77 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Here are some more photos of my progress, the engine mount has been modified to fit. Everything has to come back off to put the tin plate behind the mount and I have to find the torque specs on everything. Basically this is a just a test fit.
I have another question, should the tensioner arm that holds the tensioner pulley have a little bit of play in it? I can wiggle it very slightly when its bolted down.
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Mike
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05-30-2007, 09:04 PM
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#78 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clovis, New Mexico
Registered: Apr 2002
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as long as you used the Modified 2G mount (which I see in your pics  ) and the 1g/6bolt tensioner arm you should be good to go...
I cannot recall if that assembly had any play in it...
What kind of oil does a real mechanic like yourself use in your DSM? (Oil has been discussed here many times, I just would like to know your Brand and Wt.)
What kind of break in period/procedure do you have in mind?
Looks like your coming along nicely and seem very thorough and knowledgable...
Ohhh and on a side note*
I noticed you are using a plug for your front BS block off...I recommend gently removing that front cover (I know....if possible) and welding (or having welded) a piece of aluminum plate to cover the FBS hole.....the Weld is Ultra Permanant...the plug could leak, or fallout, or seal great and never give you any problems....I am just saying while the engine is out, you could eliminate a possibility of a future problem.
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Gsxtacy
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05-31-2007, 09:06 AM
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#79 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxtacy
as long as you used the Modified 2G mount (which I see in your pics  ) and the 1g/6bolt tensioner arm you should be good to go...
I cannot recall if that assembly had any play in it...
What kind of oil does a real mechanic like yourself use in your DSM? (Oil has been discussed here many times, I just would like to know your Brand and Wt.)
What kind of break in period/procedure do you have in mind?
Looks like your coming along nicely and seem very thorough and knowledgable...
Ohhh and on a side note*
I noticed you are using a plug for your front BS block off...I recommend gently removing that front cover (I know....if possible) and welding (or having welded) a piece of aluminum plate to cover the FBS hole.....the Weld is Ultra Permanant...the plug could leak, or fallout, or seal great and never give you any problems....I am just saying while the engine is out, you could eliminate a possibility of a future problem.
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I did use the 1g tensioner arm, I just cant remember if its normal to have slight play in it, thanks for the input.
As for oil, I'm not sure what I'm going to use yet? What about yourself?
I was given a break-in procedure to follow by JAM. It is ALOT different from any other the methods I have seen on this site, but I'm going to follow it to a T. Ill type it up when I have time for you.
As for the front cover, there is no way that thing is EVER coming back off! I had to pound the crank sprocket on pretty damn hard, its not coming off without ruining or cutting something. I put the plug in with a high strength type of JB weld, I highly doubt its coming out. But thanks for the input, its much appreciated!
Thanks for the compliments, Ill type that break in procedure up for you asap.
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 09:11 AM
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#80 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Rear Main Seal?
I have another question I need answered or help with. I want to thank all of you guys who are helping me out here.
According to the Haynes manual, the rear main seal for the 2.0 DOHC motor there should be a hole in the seal. Your supposed to face the hole down toward the oil pan so the oil can drain out. I did some research on here and some people mention the hole or oil separator? I'm not sure what the oil separator is? But I haven't came up with any real helpful information.
Is the hole only on N/T 2.0 DOHC's? Because the seal I removed didn't have a hole in it and the new seal doesn't have a hole in it either.
If anyone could help me out on this it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 10:14 AM
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#82 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonzero0
Great job.
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Simply put...Thanks!
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 10:48 AM
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#83 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Muskegon, Michigan
Registered: Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoolin98
Simply put...Thanks!
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Just curious, Whats a rough estimate of your total cost for this motor so far?
Thanks =)
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05-31-2007, 03:14 PM
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#84 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Orland Park, Illinois
Registered: Jul 2003
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Nice setup. Is this going in an awd or fwd car?
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2004 GTO
2003 Corvette ZO6
2006 Busa
1997 GSX
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05-31-2007, 05:45 PM
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#85 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: casa grande, Arizona
Registered: Mar 2004
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Sick car. I really like that distribution block you used to rewire your battery to the rear. I think I'm going to do mine a little better. It's ziptied to the cruise control bracket.
What tuning programs are you using. I noticed a MAFT manual ontop of your fuelpump.. Big thumbs up bud. Keep us upto date. It's always fun to watch somone spend $$, and even funner when it's done right!!
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Scott See
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05-31-2007, 07:19 PM
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#86 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbi
Just curious, Whats a rough estimate of your total cost for this motor so far?
Thanks =)
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Oh geez, ALOT! To tell you the truth, I don't even pay attention to the money I spend or It would just depress me.
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 09:34 PM
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#87 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fast97gsx
Nice setup. Is this going in an awd or fwd car?
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Its going in my FWD eclipse, it may eventually be put in my talon awd if I don't swap an awd setup into my gst.
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 09:37 PM
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#88 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottsee
Sick car. I really like that distribution block you used to rewire your battery to the rear. I think I'm going to do mine a little better. It's ziptied to the cruise control bracket.
What tuning programs are you using. I noticed a MAFT manual ontop of your fuelpump.. Big thumbs up bud. Keep us upto date. It's always fun to watch somone spend $$, and even funner when it's done right!!
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Thanks for the compliments. I enjoy looking at my distribution block too
As of right now, I only have the MAFT. I only planning on running stock boost for awhile so the MAFT and datalogger will be fine, I hope! Eventually I'm going to purchase DSMlink and turn up the boost!
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Mike
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05-31-2007, 09:44 PM
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#89 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Salt lake city, Utah
Registered: Apr 2003
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So wich break in steps are u gonna use for the new engine and how much torque did you use on the Head Bolts? your build is similar to what I am doing too, I am only waiting for the block and head though hehe, and seeing that you are going to use that stroker motor on your fwd the's going to be alot of tire burnin'. nice work
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fully built enjun
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05-31-2007, 10:03 PM
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#90 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mephist0
So wich break in steps are u gonna use for the new engine and how much torque did you use on the Head Bolts? your build is similar to what I am doing too, I am only waiting for the block and head though hehe, and seeing that you are going to use that stroker motor on your fwd the's going to be alot of tire burnin'. nice work 
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I will post the break in procedure as soon as I have time to type the entire thing up, just stay tuned and I will have it up as soon as possible.
I used ARP head studs with ARP nuts, not the OEM head bolts. They are torqued to 80 ft/lbs.
BTW, its not a stroker motor, its just a 2.0 bored .20 over.
Thanks for the compliment
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Mike
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