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To setup the TIG: I would start with 3/32 tungsten green, set the machine to DC RP turn the amp range to 100amps, use a copper block turn up your post flow and have the torch straight up and down. Feed the amps in slow and ball up the end of the tungsten, not a huge ball but just bigger in diameter then the tungsten. Then turn to you parts to be welded. Set the machine to AC if it has balance control set it twards the cleaning side not a ton of penetration needed, then turn on high frequency, and a Max amps of 140ish. I would use 3/32 4043 filler rod ans about 20-25cfh argon flow. I also use a diffuser nozzle and a wider opening cup.
As for torch angle its a fillet weld but I put more heat into the thicker material and with aluminum the easiest way to get penetration is to use more or bigger diameter rod. As you weld when you put in filler rod before you move the torch forward watch the puddle and you will see it "sink" in, then its time to advance.
Not to be a dick but my questions were directed toward Kurt because it was his welds on the manifold and I haven't seen yours.
And keep in mind that now a days 80% of people have inverter machines. That means they don't use green tungsten and there is no more balling of the tungsten.
To be honest beads done with a postioner or no diffrent then a machine welding them. As for welding valve covers it's not hard. You see he cleaned the surface nicely. Some valve covers just have a lot of oil in there pours. If that is ever the case run a tourch over it to get some of the oil out. Then weld accordingly. I use the most generic rod can't remember of hand since i've had a few tonight. Amperage is well over 100 don't know exactly since i always set to max and use the just feel out how much i need via the foot pedal.
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99 GSX - Talk Shyt Get Hit!
04 IS300
So i got my diversion 180 up and going yesterday on 110v in the garage. It's been about 10 years since I've done any TIG welding so enjoy my pain . I've got a new DD/toy 90 GST that needed an engine so, upon reassembly, I've removed the balance shafts. And without further ado; my first aluminum job with the TIG.
I started by filling BS tension pulley hole. I initially used a small piece of 1/16 in 6061 to cover the hole but I blew right through that piece upon tacking so I opted to build my weld. This went surprisingly easy
This did happen a time or two, whoopse
I finished up that plug and moved on to the balance shaft hole. The previous owner had replaced the seal and cracked the wall of this area so I busted down the seal walls and looked for an appropriate plug.
I didn't have any good stock with mill/lathe to turn so I opted to come up with a plug from things I had laying around. In comes busted maglite.
Fits pretty well. After finishing this job, I'm realizing that I should have prepped the surfaces even better. I should have dremeled the housing and the cap to be a tighter fit.
not my best work... The area on the left side was particularly difficult to weld as I couldn't get a good angle due to the oil plan plate. better prep work to make the welding surfaces even would have simplified that area greatly. Additionally I don't have a SS brush small enough to effectively clean that area; lesson learned. I was also completing this job at far to low amperage. I ramped it up from 90 to 115 at the end and the final parts went much smoother.
the back side of the piece. I will probably do some light filling here too if it isn't water tight.
I miss my MIG! I need to practice aluminum more. My steel TIG beads looked pretty good out of the box, aluminum beads were ok-ish but terrible once I actually started doing a job.
That Lincoln weld looks very nice. I can't afford the Lincoln stuff as of right now and this Everlast welder is really enticing me. Ugh, I want to join you guys in the fun so badly. My indecisiveness of quality vs. instant gratification is plaguing my decision choice.
I have been sidetracked with recently getting laid off and spending most of my time to work on my car with the motor swap so I haven't had too much time. Back to the valve cover, thanks for the compliments because that is the first time I ever welded oil infused cast aluminum. I was only one pass no practice on each fitting. The far fitting above the CAS has porosity in it but not enough to worry me with powder coating but the closer fitting I am more cosmetically pleased with.
Now for Gamble, I was using a Syncrowave 250, air cooled torch, 3/32 Pure tungsten balled, I always have the amps set at 140 but use what I need, not hammered on the pedal. I was using a #7 cup 15 cfm for sides and back but needed a #6 and about 20 cfm for under the treads with tungsten hung far out. There was no preheating done other than waiting a couple seconds before making a puddle. As for the cleaning was just wire brushing the anno off the fittings. No acetone or solvents used yet and I'm pretty satisfied with the welds I'm putting out. I was focusing more of the heat on the valve cover because the fitting was so small. Key for having the clean looking welds and even being able to tack it was no gap between the two and that was hard to do. I will be doing the baffle sometime this week so I will some more pics of that. I'm only about 10 classes in and I'm happy with my progression, learning something every time I pick up the torch.
Punched out a piece just to see how it would come out.
What was the balance on the machine set at? And how do you know when you need more argon vs less? I can't tell a difference if I'm at 12 or at 30 while welding.
Also how did you tie in your welds so nicely? It's always obvious where mine started and stopped at.
On most of the alum. I do its at the recommended #7 or 8 but when doing the valve cover I had to set it down to about 5 cleaning. It didn't really want to puddle nicely any higher. What I learned with the argon is try to keep it as low as possible without side affects ex. oxidizing and not puddling or allowing the filler rod to drop right in. Too high and the arc with be blowing around and unstable. I use to weld at school when begging at like 30 because I didn't know any better but once regulating the gas I noticed nicer welds and good for conserving gas when I own my own welder at home. I was stumped how to make a look like its all one bead because I couldn't do it and it bugged the hell out of me how people made it look like they welded fittings in one shot because I know they didn't and I didn't know how to. I did hear some where (pretty sure Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info) it helps to form a puddle where you stopped and instead of just moving forward right away, move the puddle back one bead and then proceed forward. It has helped me make some "one piece" looking welds. One thing that you will notice is the cleaning zone over the original bead that gives it away you stopped/started but that can be brushed/polished off. Hope this helps.
Lowell that's pretty cool. I always wondered how double syncros work. Great looking welds!
A couple weeks ago at class, I was bored so I just ran some beads trying different things.
3" sch 10 304 stainless. Kind of shaky - but was a field weld with 20' legs on each side and couldnt be rolled so not bad for just learning to pipe weld only days before this picture was taken.
Its been a while since I have welded, but these are the last things I did.
I don't have a very steady hand. I did these with a miller Econo Tig, and the stainless is at the very bottom of the scale of thickness. Basically the minimum amount of amperage possible.
On the aluminum, I was using orange tungsten ground to point...seems to work OK even on a transformer machine.
I feel like some people just have the "gift" for making nice welds... Sure everyone can make some good looking ones, but not everyone can have perfect ones all the time. One of my buddies that mig welds all day everyday, made better looking tig's on his very first attempt, than I ever have... He's got the gift, I don't
A trick I used way back with an Econo Tig was to ground through a bit of welding rod to add resistance. Always bugged me the current adjustment didn't go down low enough.
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92 Laser 50trim 10.97ET, best MPH 133.94 w/ DS-MAP
Needed a tougher test for some welders at work. We decided on a circular weld and needed a way to do make circular coupons. I came up with this to use in our hydraulic press.
whats a good starter welder Id be able to do aluminum and stainless with that I can start looking on craigslist for? I have a shitty one right now a wire feeder style/ its good for exhausts and stuff deff not manifolds or anything special.
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Built, Converted, & Tuned by yours truly
Last edited by Gamble97; 05-12-2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Looking better Gamble. This is some 308l SS 1.75 16ga tubing for my waste gate. This is just a practice piece and its quit clear practice is what the doctor prescribed. Any help I can get please ;p.
For the lower 3 welds (straight pieces) it was 1/16" wire and for the rest it was thinner wire not too sure what diameter exactly. #6 cup 1/16" cerium on an air cooled 17 monster torch. Machine is a miller syncrowave 250dx baseline ( cheap school). I will be practicing more tomorrow with better pics. I think I progressed pretty far for only welding 3 months 1-2 times a week
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. I've got a new DD/toy 90 GST that needed an engine so, upon reassembly, I've removed the balance shafts. And without further ado; my first aluminum job with the TIG.
