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Alternator Relocation kit wiring?

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,823
266
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Okay, I just ordered my Jayracing kit last night. Now I've seen a few threads talking about installation, etc. But nothing about the wiring. Maybe it's in the instructions (I dunno, since I haven't received it yet), but how are you guys doing the wiring to the alternator? I see pics of the alternator installed but NONE with the wiring to it. I ask because I'm just concerned about the belts hitting it, or wondering how I get the wires moved from the front side of the engine to the back side of the engine and want it to clean like a clean install. Thanks for anyone who can help out.
 
The wires lead to the big bundle under the radiator support, then to the fuse box. I pulled mine out from that big bundle and then re-taped the bundle back together. IIRC one or two wires were run in between the wires for the plug in for the alternator, so I had to cut and resolder one of the wires for the alternator plug in. There is enough harness then to run it along the firewall to the newly relocated alternator.
 
It's better to rewire the route coming from the back side of the block where the red line is rather than wrapping the wires where the around the block (gray line) touching the belt.
 

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It's better to rewire the route coming from the back side of the block where the red line is rather than wrapping the wires where the around the block (gray line) touching the belt.

Ah, so if I follow the wires from the harness to the alternator, they'll go back to passenger side of the vehicle? I was thinking the harness was coming in from the drivers side for that. I haven't been under there really to check that out yet. Been a lil cold the past couple of days. Wonder if I can just pull the wires out of the cover and stretch them around the back without having to do any cutting and soldering. Maybe just rewrap them if anything. Hmmm....
 
Okay, I'm doing this tomorrow. So just wondering but when you guys do the wiring, where do ya'll put it, mount it, or whatever? Not sure if I need to go and get some sort of clips or what but I want this to be a good clean install. The only part about any of the modifications I'm doing that I'm nervous about. Wish there were more pics on this.
 
when i moved the alternator i untaped most of the engine harness, ran all the wires behind the motor and under the intake manifold. {magnus smim}

Left the injector wires long so they could fit up between the runners.

The four or five wires that control that alt should just be moved, retaped and reloomed. I just used a piece of 10g wire from an amp kit to rewire the charge wire from the alt to the fuse block.
 
I pulled it in here at school today and was about to do it today but then I realized that the big thick harness goes behind the radiator and I didn't wanna drain all my fluid and pull the radiator just yet. I should be getting my JMF manifold sometime in October so I'll do it all then I guess. Sure I'll be posting questions about it again soon enough. Where are you guys securing the wiring at and how? Up against the firewall somehow or what?
 
So my transmission crapped out on me and I'm throwing in my awd tranny and QuarterMaster clutch and figured it'd be a good time to do it. I decided to run the wiring through the frame and exit back out on the back side. Less of a hassle to move the wiring all the way around to the back side of the motor, and no worries about it being too close to the belts or anything. I used a knockout punch to make the hole but it was a pain to get it started. To spare anyone else the trouble, I'll just say that if you plan to do it like I did, use a stepdrill bit or possibly a hole saw but the metal is fairly thick for that. And aim high on the frame. Towards the back, there's another piece of metal inside the frame and if you do the hole too low, you'll end up having to drill through it as well and it's at an angle. Towards the front, be careful not to drill too low because the metal for the crash beam support thingy is there. I hit BOTH of these and my gosh was it a PAIN to get the holes drilled. It took me an entire day just to get the holes done alone.

After the holes were completed, I put in some rubber grommets to keep the wiring from getting cut on the sharp edges. I had the bumper off and took off the crash beam and the 2 14mm bolts that held the support in the frame. I took the new wires and taped it all together about every 6 inches and then fed it through the front of the frame and then pulled it out of the hole in the back side of the frame on the side. And then pulled the rest out of the front hole. Then just did all of the soldering. Hope ya follow me.

I dunno what I was thinking but I thought the timing belt cover had to come off to install the relocation kit....but it didn't. So wasted some time doing that. Anyway, here's a few pics of what I did. Excuse the mess. There's some dry sweep on the ground and the engine bay isn't the cleanest, yet. Work in progress and all. Hope this helps for anyone else planning to do it. It was a pain to do the holes but I'm happy with it.

One word of caution. IF you do it through the frame like I did, keep in mind that if you get in a wreck, your cables may get pinched and will short out. Personally, I'm probably gonna install a battery kill switch inside the car just for this reason like they do on drag cars where batteries are located to the rear, and a kill switch is installed on the back of the bumper. Anyway, here's the pics...

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Finished up soldering the 4 remaining wires today and everything with the relocation is now complete. Figured I'd add a few more pics just in case anyone's confused about what I was saying.

Finished product. Wires are pretty stiff and going nowhere near the belt.
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The hole I ran the wiring through to get to the back. It's a pretty straight shot.
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Here's what to look out for in the front if ya happen to make a hole in the frame. I hit this stupid sucker of course before I was smart enough to think, and take it out of the car.
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And here's the back hole, looking inside the frame. You can see the metal that goes at an angle which makes it a pain if you aim too low.
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