turbo glenn I have it wired correctly but it only humms when the key is on! I only have the L wire hooked up to the black/yellow wire! Also the sense wire is hooked properly but when I disconnect the L wire from the black/yellow wire the humming stops. But only humms when key is on
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turbo glenn I have it wired correctly but it only humms when the key is on! I only have the L wire hooked up to the black/yellow wire! Also the sense wire is hooked properly but when I disconnect the L wire from the black/yellow wire the humming stops. But only humms when key is on
I have had a lot of these hum when the regulator is excited.(has power to it) They always worked fine though. Is yours charging good?
I have had a lot of these hum when the regulator is excited.(has power to it) They always worked fine though. Is yours charging good?
I must be doing something wrong or using not so good wires! when i start the car it goes up to 14.1 then drops all the way down to 13.0. It stays between 12.8 to 13.1 and I have the sense wire going to where the battery, starter, fuse box, and alt cables go!
APEX..... ONLY RUN THE BLACK WITH yellow stripe to the "L" wire it stands for "light" as in the dummy light and if it doesn't have at least 35 ohms resistance you will fry the alternator on the spot... ( THIS is why we have the "alternator relay" it's not really a relay but a resistance box to add some more resistance over the dash bulb) The "F" wire is the one that does not need a resistor and both the "L" and "F" serve the same purpose and that is to activate the alt.
Glenn, I'm curious about this part. Where did the 35 ohm number come from? My car, being a '99, has no generator relay from the factory. I have a lifetime warranty on my 200A alternator but I obviously don't want to fry it right away when I try to start the car up. I'd have to check, but I doubt I have 35 ohms on the L wire, unless the factory compensated for this in another way when they chucked the generator relay. If what you are saying is true, then I could either add an inline resistor on my L wire, or just remove that wire and run a switched 12v to the F wire. I already have my car wired up per the old directions so I'm trying to confirm before I go changing it, but I would like to have the dash light functional.
Okay this is completely new to me. Can someone explain what i need to run a Saturn alternator for a 1g. I get confused reading cause it goes from 1g to 2g.
I need to know what has to be done to make it fit then what i do with the old wiring? 2 white wires and the ground. I am tired of having dying alternators and need help on this all steps from begening to end for A 1g. Thanks so much for your time and help.
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James Chanley 1992 AWD Automatic
I'm getting p1500 CEL "generator circuit malfunction" coming on. I have voltage between "13.5-14.5v"
I wired as follows.
Stock Black/yellow wire to terminal "L" on GM connector
Terminal "S" of GM connector wired to distibution block at B+.
Other 2 wires from stock harness are not hooked up. Should they should be, some say no. What's the haaps? I'm guessing one of these wires needs to be hooked up. But to what?
Do we have a part number for the plug from Advance or the likes?
When I pulled mine from the junkyard, it just has a 2 wire plug. F and L.
I have to weld a new flex section into my exhaust next week so I can pass inspections by the end of the month. I'm putting my car up on my buddy's lift, so it's a prime time to get this swapped in, especially before the winter when my A/C - Defroster will be running full blast at idle to get the windows defrosted.
EDIT:
I finally found the part number on my alternator
Delco: 21023702
It's 96 Amps
I that should be a bit better than the stock POS.
When looking for an alternator, try to clean off the part number. The Amp rating is printed just below it. There seems there may have been multiple Amp versions in different S-series. The older (91?-93?) have the 96Amp ones. Newer ones have 90Amps.
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Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
Do we have a part number for the plug from Advance or the likes?
I got a 3 wire plug from Oreilly's, and the brand is Dorman. the number on the package is 85854 it says use with GM regulators 1116411 and 1116408.
Hope this helps you find it easy.
awesome man... thanks for getting the part # on here. i just got my saturn Alt and im gonna have it built to approx. 180 amps for about $100 they even said they could have and adapter harnees made to go from the gm plug to the mitsu style. would anyone else be interested in a adapter harness? pm me if you are and maybe i can get a few made.
and a diagram would be great!
Last edited by snowborder714; 11-16-2009 at 08:49 AM.
I must be doing something wrong or using not so good wires! when i start the car it goes up to 14.1 then drops all the way down to 13.0. It stays between 12.8 to 13.1 and I have the sense wire going to where the battery, starter, fuse box, and alt cables go!
Where are you reading the voltage from? Is your volt gauge wired inside the car? If so, I would try running the sense wire to the same point that your gauge is wired to. see if that changes it at all.
Does the "L" wire on the saturn alternator plug have to have between 35-350 ohms or resistance to turn the alternator on correctly? How would you go about testing to see if you are having enough?
I put my volt meter in the wire and put the key to the on position but it still read 0 ohms but for some reason it had 11 volts to it. This was with the car off though and i think my battery is getting weak because its not getting a charge. It also reads around 8 ohms with the key out of ignition but as soon as i turn the key to crank the car or turn to just the on position it goes to 0 ohms on my meter.
