Then installed it by grinding (ALOT OF GRINDING) It fits Yay!
Head over to the local junk yard pick up a pigtail Yay! 2 bucks
##################### Confusing Part To People #####################
1st
Install The black with yellow stripe wire(light wire) goes to the L terminal (Black with white stripe wire on the saturn connector)
2nd
F (Little F on the Saturn connector) Run that to the Firewall used a source where the FPS aka stupid smog plugs I say. Use a multimeter to find the Source Make use it turns off when the car is off.
And BTW, glenn added some excellent info to the mod about using the sense wire to get the alt to put out more voltage if you still see to much drop under load.
With a Brand new alt that I just posted I get low 12s with AC/Both fans on/Radio on/HIDs on. With everything off and 700 idle around 13.7. I dont have any electrical problems etc Simple as this if you think your gonna have problems buy the damn 200amp one off that site.
Its a very simple mod. You only need to use 1 wire from the harness and the other one you run takes about 15min the most run it with your ac line if you wish.
ok now what is the sense wire? that's my question I have the 2 wires from sat alt connect to the 2 wires for the mitsu. There is wire that i can take off that's connected by bolt is that it?
What also gets me You guys are busting out the 4 gauge wire. lol You know that you already have a thick wire running to the Post right? ie the one that you have to tighten the nut for.
The F is one you just need to run a 12V Ignition Switched Source.
Man if am wrong tell me because after reading all this Its getting pretty confusing
Sense - Used to sense voltage across the battery to prevent overcharging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ECLEVO4G
ok now what is the sense wire? that's my question I have the 2 wires from sat alt connect to the 2 wires for the mitsu. There is wire that i can take off that's connected by bolt is that it?
The Big one with the bolt and nut is your:
Battery Post - Heavy gauge wire that connects to the battery. This is doing the charging.
Here is a pic to show a you guys a little something now just replace 1 with F and 2 with L.
ok now what is the sense wire? that's my question I have the 2 wires from sat alt connect to the 2 wires for the mitsu. There is wire that i can take off that's connected by bolt is that it?
The wire on the bolt is the charging wire that goes to the battery.
The sense wire was the main topic of this thread and was mentioned and explained in the first few posts.
The brown & brwn/wht wires should be labeled on the connector itself. I have the same one with brown wires and the plug has an "L" "F" & "S". The "S" doesn't have a wire and you have to put one in there. I just took apart another harness I had laying around and found one to fit in there.
Ok so the thicker wire in the diagram is the sense wire for the alternator that I should run to the battery. It said 4 gauge wire is good to run for the sense wire right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by My1GLaser
The wire on the bolt is the charging wire that goes to the battery.
The sense wire was the main topic of this thread and was mentioned and explained in the first few posts.
The brown & brwn/wht wires should be labeled on the connector itself. I have the same one with brown wires and the plug has an "L" "F" & "S". The "S" doesn't have a wire and you have to put one in there. I just took apart another harness I had laying around and found one to fit in there.
Ok see now I am confused so you have the same harness but you added a 3rd wire for it? Which is the sense wire?
Ok I had to re-read the post but i get it now, so I will change out my connector tomorrow and run the s wire to somewhere.lol Could i just run it to the fuse box in the engine bay? I don't have anything in my car right now, no accessories at all.
Here is a pic to show a you guys a little something now just replace 1 with F and 2 with L.
Everyones talking about striped wires... I have the Jay Racing harness which are solid colored wires. But i'm sure I will figure it out. Also, couldn't you run some type of resistor somewhere on the "sense" wire so that it would give the apprearence of not enough voltage (basically making the alternator put out an extra .5 to 1 volt extra)... if let's say it was hooked back up to the battery? Would that work?
Yes, we've tossed around the idea of using a potentiometer (pot) to add resistance in the signal line to fine tune your output voltage.
You run some dangers though, especially if you get too much output voltage, including, but not limited to:
*Frying your battery
*Frying your ecu
*Frying anything electrical in your car
*Having an electrical fire from an aforementioned frying
Unless you know what you're doing, you should probably just wire it in normal until instructions are made clearer (like what voltages to aim for, what resistance to use, where to measure voltages from, etc.) I'd hate to see another DSM with electrical problems. They can be such a pain to track down.
____________________________
Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
Well I guess that is what i'm waiting on. This generic diagram is nice, but not based off of what the OP was achieving. Guess that's why if "he" could make a diag of his own wiring setup. Patiently waiting.
Yes, we've tossed around the idea of using a potentiometer (pot) to add resistance in the signal line to fine tune your output voltage.
Hell yeah! Thats what I'm going to do. I have one from when I tried it on the "F" wire. Last year I thought its function was to sense...I didn't know about wiring up a 3rd wire to the "S" terminal back then.
I datalog every time I drive the car, so I will run the potentiometer into the passenger compartment and screw with it this weekend. I want to find the happy medium where it doesn't go above 14.7 when first cranked with no accessories on, or below 13.5 after hard pulls when it is hot and I have the lights and all 3 fans on. Or I could have a daytime and nighttime setting on the knob so it always outputs 14.5-14.7...
That would be nice! I am about to rewire the whole thing this week. Get my alt and battery check just to make sure it's good, cause when i logged it my volts were low as hell. Like around 10 and then 9 but I check the alt at advance and they said it was good. so I am going to redo everything
Where are you guys running the s-wire? I don't have any accessories right now no ac, heat, or radio, but radio will come later. what do you guys suggest i place the s wire
Where are you guys running the s-wire? I don't have any accessories right now no ac, heat, or radio, but radio will come later. what do you guys suggest i place the s wire
Mine is ran straight to the + post of the batt. Glenn has his ran to the distribution block. The best place to run it is to the place that would see the most voltage drop under load. Someone suggested the fuel pump, unless of course it is rewired.
I am going to run a potentiometer inline so I can just dial in whatever voltage drop I want instead of hunting for the best place on my car.
What is a potentiometer? My fuel pump isn't rewired just got the wally in there right now, but I am going to get a external pump.
how would you do the potentiometer mod to our cars, that seems to be very useful to have. If i can control the voltage coming from the alt it would be great
Just get the self exciting regulator and call it done. 4 gauge to battery, no wires from the harness needed.
All the saturn CS style alternators are self exciting.... but a better degree of of voltage consistancy can be had when the unit is powered on with a line with at least 35 OHms to 300 Ohms resistance (the dummy light provies the resitance along with out charging relay that's on 2g cars byt the BCS), and then with the "S" wire ran to the point where the alternator, battery , accesorries (meaning CDI boxes, radio, fuel pump etc..) andstarter all meet up you get the most consistant voltage to all aspects of the electrical system. I posted diagrams in the fist pages that explain how to getthe best performance from our alternators (well our saturn swaps anyway)
so I should run a 12 guage wire from s -wire to where I connect the battery, starter and fuse box at? Should I change the wires coming from the fuse box to another gauge wire? I know in an early post it said 4 gauge from fuse box to battery and 4 gauge from alt to battery as well. So everything is going with the battery?
Yes, connect it where everything major comes together.. I ran 4 gauge from the alt to fusebox, then from fusebox to battery and from there i have a distributiob block that houses the leads for the starter, fuel pump MSD, and all the car's normal accesories... This is where i tied in the "S" wire (I also have 4 gauge running from the starter to dist block and from the accessorie fuse (underhood) i also added 4 gauge instead of the 4 other wires that were there (the white ones)
If you read through it all the "S" wire should hook to a block where all of the major current draining leads join up, and yopu'll most likely need to use your own dist block
I just read through the whole article here lots of good info, my old alts. on its way out charging 12.9-13.0. So i picked up a Saturn Atl. last night 16 bucks at the U-pull it. I haven't gone out to the car yet and inspected all the wiring colors but do you think you make a quick diagram of the wiring you did matching color to color and such. Just as an extra reference. I'm not really in the mood to fry my whole system
Now I just need to go out and pick up the pigtail.
Well, I had a chance to wire in the potentiometer and do some testing this weekend. I got it all hooked up and even with it turned all the way up there is very little to no voltage increase from the alt over just having the sense wire run straight to the batt.
I have a 1M ohm version and when I hook it up straight to the batt and check the voltage, it reads 12.7 and when I turn the resistance up it reads 5v at the lowest. So I figure I only need to reduce what the alt sees by about 1-1.5v and this will work great.
I don't know what I am missing here? This should have worked. I rebuilt the alt with a 150amp stator and replaced the brushes/bearings and even bought the HD regulator??? The f_cker should be putting out more voltage than the 13.8v I get, which quickly turns to 12.8 with the lights and fans running.
I knew the person on this forum who told me how to wire this when I started installing and putting my car back together wasn't right after I finally started my car and my distribution block only read 12.8v at idle.
At first I didnt think much about it as I had a lot of other things going on with the car, then one day i tried to turn the car on and it wouldnt turn over.
I have the same plug as My1GLaser for a saturn alternator which has the brown solid and brown w/white for the "f" and "l".
The person told me to run the stock alternator black w/white wire to the "L" and leave the other stock wire that was thicker and yellow in color alone to hang. They told me to run the "F" wire to my ignition. I also have a 4 gauge wire to the power of my alternator that attaches with a nut and this wire goes all the way to my battery in the trunk. I have a 0 gauge wire to my distribution block in my engine bay which is how i monitor the voltage.
I'm still not 100% sure of where to run my wires but it looks like i should either buy a new plug that has the "S" pin.
Can someone tell me how my wires should be ran? I'm going to be upset if the way i had it previously set up blew my new 200 amp alternator....
After reading this entire thread slowly I figured i should attempt to re-wire my plug but this time with a new plug that has the "s" wire in it.
The black w/yellow wire should go to the "L" wire on the plug and the "S" should go to a place that will monitor voltage the best. Any main power wire basically.
I just wanted to know is the "F" wire is needed at all? And do i leave the other original wire off the stock alternator plug i clipped off just to hang there?
Or would it be best if I run "F" to a switchable power source, one that turns on when the key is on and off when the car is off?
I just wanted to know is the "F" wire is needed at all? Or would it be best if I run "F" to a switchable power source, one that turns on when the key is on and off when the car is off?
No. As long as the L wire is hooked up its fine. Thats how mine is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seminoles2005
And do i leave the other original wire off the stock alternator plug i clipped off just to hang there?
Ok this is weird! I wired everything up according to this thread, but when the black/yellow wire from the 2g harness is connected to the L wire on saturn plug. My alternator makes a buzzing sound when the car is on, it won't make it if the key isnt in the on position. When I messed with the wires sometimes the buzzing will stop but now it came back!
I am back again with the same problem! I have the wires hooked up correctly but my alternator humms only when the ignition is on. i followed the diagram in this post but to no luck it still hums
Unhook the "F" wire that's causing your humming... all you really need is the "L" wire (but it must ahve a dummy light connected to it or it will fry the regualtor in the alternator)
The "L" and "F" do the same thing and that's activate the unit (or excite in alternator terms) the "S" wire is for improved charging and better voltage stability.
I have been so busy with work that i haven't had the time to get on the net lately, so sorry for all the alte replies to PM's and such.
knochgoon.... I'll have them pulleys by mid october.. I got a broch of the correct size and have everything else i just have to finish up this huge paint job on a mansion that one of my builders lives in (hoping this wednesday..raining today and can'twork) so i'll be hitting you up soon for the trial run pulley for you.
i'll try and draw up a diagram here soon as well for the wiring since i've gotten a lot of requests over PM, email and here in the post.
as for adding a third wire to the plug... just go to autozone/o'reillys and ask for apigtail for a GM CS style alternator...they will say they don't have it if you ask for one for a saturn... man some parts people are just a bit tooun-informed to work at a parts store, but hey everyone starts some where
knochgoon.... I'll have them pulleys by mid october.. I got a broch of the correct size and have everything else i just have to finish up this huge paint job on a mansion that one of my builders lives in (hoping this wednesday..raining today and can'twork) so i'll be hitting you up soon for the trial run pulley for you.
Works for me. I've been busy with several other side projects lately anyways.
____________________________
Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
Thats what I'm going to do. I have one from when I tried it on the "F" wire. Last year I thought its function was to sense...I didn't know about wiring up a 3rd wire to the "S" terminal back then. 
So i picked up a Saturn Atl. last night 16 bucks at the U-pull it. I haven't gone out to the car yet and inspected all the wiring colors but do you think you make a quick diagram of the wiring you did matching color to color and such. Just as an extra reference. I'm not really in the mood to fry my whole system 
