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| Custom Fabrication: TIG/MIG welding, jig-building, metal working, fiberglass, carbon fiber, and other custom fabrication projects. |
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10-29-2010, 10:00 AM
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#31 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Registered: Sep 2010
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Is it necassary to cut the circuit board for this mod? I have been wanting to do this mod but I don't want/feel like cutting the curcuit board, in fear of messing it up then I am screwed.
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10-29-2010, 07:05 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Registered: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixrman
20-22 guage wire should do it. Actually smaller wire has more resistance than larger wire, then again it all depends on your draw. And the more strands the better.
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Thanks for the gauge size. Yeah I know smaller wire bigger resistance, harder for the electrons to flow easily, I was half asleep, when I wrote the post. I have had a terrible week flying around the country with all these storms and haven't had much sleep  But thanks for pointing me in the direction I needed.
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Roger.
1990 Talon TSi AWD.
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11-03-2010, 10:01 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2003
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For the gas gauge, well, I currently do not have one. The "Low Fuel" light still works though so it will still come on as needed. Normally, I only fix my cars completely up and I know about how many miles I get on a tank. Regardless, the low level light still works. I do plan to put a Cobalt gas gauge in but it will most likely go down around the radio.
As for cutting the electric board, some companies do make gauges that are not as deep or long. Those may work without having to cut the board. Or maybe some of the gauges that have a connector that plugs into the gauge. I'll have to see if I have any pictures of the circuit board. Mine was baically cut in half. I had a spare one though so I knew where all the traces went so I could rebuild them. Only thing I may change is I may go with smaller wire than I did. The wire I used is kind of thick and stiff. If you scratch too much off to get to the copper, then it can peel up.
Still works though, even after my car sat for a year and was not started.
____________________________
~TJ
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11-05-2010, 06:48 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Registered: Jan 2006
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Do you have any pictures of the wiring of the board after it was cut? or pictures of of what it looked like when it was done? im actually doing this now on my spare cluster and would like to see what traces go where and how you tapped them in. Thank you
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11-10-2010, 09:08 AM
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#35 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperXX
OP looks awesome.... but what are you going to do about not having a fuel gauge?
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This is what I did with mine:
Do not need the factory boost gauge anymore so did some modifications and fit the factory fuel gauge where the old boost gauge was. Had to solder wire connections on the old original fuel gauge circuit board sheet and then ran them to the new location. Works great. EDIT: I should add the fuel gauge looks crooked only because thats the only way the sweep motor would fit in there around the tach and whatnot. I'll live with it being a bit askew for the sake of keeping the factory guage.
Nice work Eagle 5. Looks clean. I did not have to cut as much of my housing as you did. I tried to keep as much of it present as I could by using a hole saw to cut out behind each of the gauges.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM_munky_man
Is it necassary to cut the circuit board for this mod? I have been wanting to do this mod but I don't want/feel like cutting the curcuit board, in fear of messing it up then I am screwed.
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No need to cut any of the circuit board.
____________________________
Colin
90 TSi AWD auto conversion 10.54@129.74
Last edited by dsmmack; 11-10-2010 at 09:17 AM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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11-10-2010, 09:22 AM
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#36 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Thornton, Colorado
Registered: Mar 2010
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gauge mod
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmmack
This is what I did with mine:
Do not need the factory boost gauge anymore so did some modifications and fit the factory fuel gauge where the old boost gauge was. Had to solder wire connections on the old original fuel gauge circuit board sheet and then ran them to the new location. Works great. EDIT: I should add the fuel gauge looks crooked only because thats the only way the sweep motor would fit in there around the tach and whatnot. I'll live with it being a bit askew for the sake of keeping the factory guage.
Nice work Eagle 5. Looks clean. I did not have to cut as much of my housing as you did. I tried to keep as much of it present as I could by using a hole saw to cut out behind each of the gauges.
No need to cut any of the circuit board.
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What do you use for oil pressure? i never drive without checking that regularly
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11-10-2010, 10:06 AM
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#37 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmrollerz90
What do you use for oil pressure? i never drive without checking that regularly
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Oil pressure, Water temp and Trans temp are all down where the radio location is. I've had those down there for years.
____________________________
Colin
90 TSi AWD auto conversion 10.54@129.74
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11-15-2010, 11:32 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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Proven Member

Car: 97 Subaru Legacy GT
From: West Branch, Michigan
Registered: May 2009
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Is that and automatic AWD 1990????????????
Never seen an auto awd 90 or an auto 90 at all lol.
____________________________
Rally built 94 AWD Talon dualing as a daily!
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12-27-2010, 11:29 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: pasadena, Texas
Registered: Oct 2009
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that shifter looks good can u take a pic closer up
It looks like you have a hurst shifter !
Last edited by 90gsx_luis; 12-28-2010 at 09:17 AM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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12-28-2010, 06:17 PM
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#41 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: ~, Connecticut
Registered: Jun 2003
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Cobalts can get bright at night. Did this for a friend of mine using all Cobalts. (only shot I have left)
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06-02-2012, 06:48 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Great Falls, Montana
Registered: Apr 2012
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Back from the dead, didn't want to start a new thread on this. How big are the holes for the tach and the speedo? I am going to be replacing all my gauges with aftermarket ones and wanted to make sure that I got the right size gauges.
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06-07-2012, 09:26 AM
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#43 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2003
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The gauges come in 3 3/8" and 5" I believe. I'm not sure what the standard opening is on the stock bezel but it would probably have to be modified to fit the gauges. The openings for the 3 gauges I have had to be modified slightly for them to fit. The only thing I worry about removing my stock speedometer is losing the odometer on it.
Car has not been ran in about a year though as I'm about to start stripping her down and re-doing anything and everything on it the way I want. One issue will be when I get to the dash is whether I keep the stock dash and just do modifications to it, or whether I replace and make a custom type dash. I do want to replace the tach and speedometer but it would be nice if I could find a speedo with an odometer. I know some of the larger speedometers have a trip meter on them but that seems to easy to just reset it. Though, if I never decide to sell the car then it doesn't matter how many miles are on it.
____________________________
~TJ
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06-07-2012, 10:23 AM
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#44 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: las vegas, Nevada
Registered: May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmmack
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Props to you for where you mounted the fuel level gage... Looks a little too out of place for me but if it works...
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06-08-2012, 11:58 AM
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#45 (permalink)
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DSMtuners Supporting Vendor

From: aurora, Colorado
Registered: Jul 2006
Reputation:
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Here's a full replacement cluster, including putting a compatible fuel sender in the tank
____________________________
758/636 Uncorrected with a blow thru GM-MAF
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06-08-2012, 08:22 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Blaine, Minnesota
Registered: Oct 2005
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Hal, is that your car.
Looks so good. If i redid my gauges I'd copy the RX7 layout (FD & FC). But i've learned after having a lot of these cars its the stock stuff that is the attraction, well somewhat.
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06-09-2012, 02:35 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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DSMtuners Supporting Vendor

From: aurora, Colorado
Registered: Jul 2006
Reputation:
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It's been so long I don't remember the part number.
But is the one for the Autometer fuel gauge in the dash.
Replace the oem sender and removed the low fuel sensor.
____________________________
758/636 Uncorrected with a blow thru GM-MAF
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06-11-2012, 09:08 AM
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#49 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal
Here's a full replacement cluster, including putting a compatible fuel sender in the tank
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This is what I'm considering doing when I redo my car. Just haven't decided if I just want to keep the stock dash and just mount everything similar to what you did or if I will be replacing the dsh completely with something else.
____________________________
~TJ
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06-11-2012, 04:52 PM
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#50 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: washington, Illinois
Registered: Mar 2008
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hal i am curious as to what you had to do to get the aftermarket speedo to work with the 1g. i have been running over this in my head and looking through part to find something compatible with no good result.
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06-12-2012, 02:37 PM
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#51 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: ~, Connecticut
Registered: Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doayamaha
hal i am curious as to what you had to do to get the aftermarket speedo to work with the 1g. i have been running over this in my head and looking through part to find something compatible with no good result.
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Use a 2g electronic speed sensor.
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