So, have you guys thought about when it comes time to lower your car off the lift, and you still have extreme negative camber? Or you may want a little toe in, and less camber. Have you guys thought about that at all with these lower A Arms?
I am trying to decide if i want to cut the arms a little, to "tuck" the wheel in better and run a little less camber.
James
You can achieve both of those things with the RRE camber plates. I'd rather make these adjustments at the camber plate instead of at the control arm anyway.
____________________________
-Chris
FP3150-powered road racer!
Please use the "Site Problems" forum or the "Tech" forums instead of sending "help" questions directly to me or the Moderators/Wisemen.
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I probably have a few different sets of tubular Mustang control arms on the shelf here at work.
Which generation Mustang are they for and what measurements would you want?
2005+ Mustang. Hell, maybe you could just take a piece of cardboard and trace the outline of the control arm and mark the location of the bolts (connection points). That's what I'd want to do.
Any chance you could send one of the arms out to me and I'd ship it back when I'm done?
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-Chris
FP3150-powered road racer!
Please use the "Site Problems" forum or the "Tech" forums instead of sending "help" questions directly to me or the Moderators/Wisemen.
If these parts are chromoly and undersized wall thickness then the welding procedure could have created the problem which is what i suspect being it broke right outside a weld area.
I'm reluctant to point at the weld as an actual problem, as Polk has a good rep for race car fabrication.
The wall thickness of the tube in that spot is quite thin IIRC. That coupled with no gusseting, most likely due to this being primarily a lightweight dragracing design, are more likely the true cause. I doubt anyone else will be running these outside of the drag race community, and really, we are here to talk about other options.
2005+ Mustang. Hell, maybe you could just take a piece of cardboard and trace the outline of the control arm and mark the location of the bolts (connection points). That's what I'd want to do.
Any chance you could send one of the arms out to me and I'd ship it back when I'm done?
I could possibly get some measurements from a 2005 Mustang as my neighbor has one. Do you just want measurements of just the front control arms? I could take pictures and measurements. He most likely wouldn't let me take them off so I'd have to do the job just with the car in the air.
Any chance you could send one of the arms out to me and I'd ship it back when I'm done?
+1 If you could actually do a trial fitments then you could get proper measurements. The only thing from the photos I see is the angle of where the ball joint is... Notice on ours the ball joint looks to be a straight line from the bushing/mount... the Mustang ones look to be a little off center.
Cause I don't think pulling out the ruler is going to really help. I'd love to pickup a set whenever some get made. I'd love to make my own but I don't have a welder worthy of molding pipes together. Just have a cheap 100 dollar welder for quick small jobs. Like my Strut Tower Bar.
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-Josh
94 Talon TSI AWD
Headlights are EBAY.
Paul is going to trace a Mustang arm and send it to me so I can compare. The Polk arm in the photos above actually have a similar curve, so I'm not sure it won't work, though I'm not holding my breath. What are the chances?
If nothing else, the BMR design gives us something to base our design off of. If that design works for a Mustang, it should most definitely work for our cars.
____________________________
-Chris
FP3150-powered road racer!
Please use the "Site Problems" forum or the "Tech" forums instead of sending "help" questions directly to me or the Moderators/Wisemen.
Yeah just gotta get good welds on a strong material and were golden. I'd be happy with non adjustable up front cause my stock setup is perfect for me...
I still wanna get something built up for the trailing arms.
____________________________
-Josh
94 Talon TSI AWD
Headlights are EBAY.
I'm reluctant to point at the weld as an actual problem, as Polk has a good rep for race car fabrication.
The wall thickness of the tube in that spot is quite thin IIRC. That coupled with no gusseting, most likely due to this being primarily a lightweight dragracing design, are more likely the true cause. I doubt anyone else will be running these outside of the drag race community, and really, we are here to talk about other options.
Typically a tube will bend not break but in most cases w/ chromoly its not the weld that fails its the overheating of the material which will cause it to become brittle and it'll break outside of the weld. Im just advising those to take precaution in dealing w/ some of these parts as it can be a huge liabilty if there's failure due to lack of experience w/ design and fabrication of these types of components.
Has anyone looked into using a sypherical bearing cupstyle ball joint? Pictured below is the bearing cup style we use in the motorcross stuff.
So far, no one wants to deviate from the stock type ball joint.
Except me...
I just finished the rear end with all tubular control arms.I picked up a complete front sub frame to make a set of front control arms. I was planning on using the ball joints from top chrysler or afco # 20212 tie rod end.I am still in the planning stage.Does any body have photos of Larry Parker's front control arms?I like his design.
I just finished the rear end with all tubular control arms.I picked up a complete front sub frame to make a set of front control arms. I was planning on using the ball joints from top chrysler or afco # 20212 tie rod end.I am still in the planning stage.Does any body have photos of Larry Parker's front control arms?I like his design.
If Larry is 3litrpwr or like that, yes I have seen those and like them too. In fact, I asked him, previous to getting my Polks, if he'd make more. Of course he said no.
Anyone else have any more info? I wish I could join in on this but I wouldn't know where to start, I want all front and back adjustable tubular arms. And got a kick ass welder but I'm not really sure where to start.
____________________________
-Josh
94 Talon TSI AWD
Headlights are EBAY.
I have made hiem joint on the rear trailing arms,adjustable rear upper control arms and adjustable rear lower control arms.I am planning a tubular front control arm.I just finish steel bushings for the front control arms.They worked out fine,no extra noise or vibration.
Ah! so maybe the threaded rodstock wouldn't break AT the rear bushing. But you at least have you have to take into consideration the material for the lever arm between the front and rear bushings. I see. The rear bushing may see much more load than I would have thought too.
Putting a threaded piece into bending like that will break it. It may not be a hit a pothole and die kind of thing, it's a cyclical issue. The notch (thread) in the rod adds a stress concentration factor that will dramatically reduce the cyclical life span of the piece in comparison to a non-threaded rod.
You could oversize the bolt, but then again you could also just put in a solid rod.
That's the better way. It still has threads, but they are not bearing the bending/shear load. Anyone serious about making these things will make them that way.
Yeah, definitely a typo. Afco 20212 is a 700lb IMCA torque link.
They are very beefy. I have one here that I was going to use on my 2g toe arm I'm building. To use it would require me to ream the hole out quit a bit. I'm now looking into using Part # ES258L. It appears that it has a smaller center pin. I should know in a few days.
Putting a threaded piece into bending like that will break it. It may not be a hit a pothole and die kind of thing, it's a cyclical issue. The notch (thread) in the rod adds a stress concentration factor that will dramatically reduce the cyclical life span of the piece in comparison to a non-threaded rod.
You could oversize the bolt, but then again you could also just put in a solid rod.
That's the better way. It still has threads, but they are not bearing the bending/shear load. Anyone serious about making these things will make them that way.
I've spoken with BM about producing control arms for the 1st gen DSM. They've told me that they would consider doing it in the off season (any time now I'd guess) but I have no details on what pricing would be or what they'd need in terms of minimum orders. I'll check in with them again.
____________________________
-Chris
FP3150-powered road racer!
Please use the "Site Problems" forum or the "Tech" forums instead of sending "help" questions directly to me or the Moderators/Wisemen.
Sorry I haven't responded in awhile, we've been very busy with other projects. Last we wored with these, I did some strength testing, but i have lost the info from the tests, so I will do them again in the upcoming days. when I post results I'll also talk about some of the design changes we're planning on making.
