I finally made my downpipe, dont mind some of the welds, as i have updated pictures when them cleaned up. It looks nice with the welds cleaned up. Keep in mind also this was the first downpipe ive ever made.
This stuff is awesome, Paul. Only downside, you'll get a lot of heat in the engine bay. Hope it is worth the power gains, or spool time.
The internal and external Jet-Hot coating on everything should help out quite a bit. Not to mention I have a two hood vents directly above this assembly. I'll make it work well.
1fastlaser - Where did you have your downpipe coated?
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Paul Volk
99 GSX - Compound Turbo'd
91 TSI - 14b
I finally made my downpipe, dont mind some of the welds, as i have updated pictures when them cleaned up. It looks nice with the welds cleaned up. Keep in mind also this was the first downpipe ive ever made.
You guys made some bad ass downpipes, Im looking into this myself now that I have my Holset. I dont have access to a welder and cant weld for crap anyway. If anyone is interested in making me one for my Holset please pm me! thanks.
Looks really good guys. Paul, how much is Jet Hot charging to coat all of your parts?
They sent me an info packet and a quote by mail. I believe it was around $570, including returm shipping. But I have a good feeling it's going to be a bit more once it's all said and done.
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Paul Volk
99 GSX - Compound Turbo'd
91 TSI - 14b
This is the mandrel custom 3-inch downpipe I made back when I had my talon (complete with v-bands)...its ugly, but it was fun to make..(I only had a Mig welder though)..
The internal and external Jet-Hot coating on everything should help out quite a bit. Not to mention I have a two hood vents directly above this assembly. I'll make it work well.
1fastlaser - Where did you have your downpipe coated?
Its acually called johnsons powder coating in burlington NJ. It was close for me and he charged me 80 to coat inside and out. I think it looks great.
Yeah it looks alright, its the first downpipe ive ever made. I was trying to keep the degree of the bends as smooth as possible, which it came out awesome i think. Next one will get tig welded.
Just finished up the full exhaust this passed weekend, got one spot we gotta fix because it hangs alittle low, but no bigger. Sounds great also with the dynomax bullet 4 inch inlet outlet muffler. Ill get pics
HA, funny you mention that. I was building a 3.5" turbo-back for a buddy's 2G this past weekend as well. I only got half-way done with it though. Going back tomorrow to finish it. His was tricky though, because the car has a solid axle 9" and a 4-link. It was tricky routing a 3.5" diameter pipe around the 4-link. It's pretty cool though. The whole things uses really lightweight 20 gauge SS piping, and one of these ultra-light 2-stage mufflers.
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Paul Volk
99 GSX - Compound Turbo'd
91 TSI - 14b
Last edited by 99gst_racer; 03-25-2009 at 12:28 PM.
Reason: typo
I guess I can post mine as well. This was made by a local friend of mine. 3" straight off the turbo with the alternator and oil filter housing at their stock locations. PS too.
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10.72@138.08 (Best MPH)
Street Radials, Pump E85
thanks, Im just trying to get everything sorted out and get my car to the track Saturday, My v-band flange warped on me so im going to have to get another one and re weld it on
Thanks for the reply. I already have the Jays racing relocation kit, and as for the oil filter, and local guy in pa setup his 4" downpipe to fit with the normal oil filter housing, so im going to shoot for that. I use evo oil filters so it should fit, and be able to come off when oil changes are needed it. Im sure ill end up relocating it eventually.
The only thing with aluminized is that im wondering if the joints will start rusting. The v-bands are going to be stainless so i have to put that into consideration. Im not a professional welder, so i like personal opinions of guys that have done it.
Ok why a 4 inch downpipe? I was thinking of doing a 4 inch downpipe, and 3 1/2 after the v-band.
Why not just go with a forward facing oil filter housing off a mighty max? From the looks of mine, you could fit a pretty good sized downpipe in there with it.
Why not just go with a forward facing oil filter housing off a mighty max? From the looks of mine, you could fit a pretty good sized downpipe in there with it.
I got it all together, and its been running. I didnt want to bypass running a oil cooler since i have no piston squirters in my motor to begin with, wanna keep the motor oil at a decent temp. Plus my turbular Front bar I think would be in the way. Oil filters easy to get off, and i changed the oil and it was no issue. Heres some pics. This was the first downpipe i ever made with a friend of mine. Next one im sure will be ALOT better.
Alot of it is just cutting some 10 degree and 15 degree cuts, and holding them together till it looks good. I used mostly 10 degree cuts. You use a chop saw and can set the degree of the angle before you cut. 10 degree cuts make more of a round turn then L's. You want it to be smooth and not abrupt, like it was ment to bend like that.
It takes time, alot of cutting, grinding, and fitting. It kinda falls together, and im sure the next one I make will turn out even better. Im happy this one works, clears everything, and the oil filter still comes off with no trouble. Its acually pretty rewarding.
Alot of it is just cutting some 10 degree and 15 degree cuts, and holding them together till it looks good. I used mostly 10 degree cuts. You use a chop saw and can set the degree of the angle before you cut. 10 degree cuts make more of a round turn then L's. You want it to be smooth and not abrupt, like it was ment to bend like that.
It takes time, alot of cutting, grinding, and fitting. It kinda falls together, and im sure the next one I make will turn out even better. Im happy this one works, clears everything, and the oil filter still comes off with no trouble. Its acually pretty rewarding.
Exactly, Cut a whole bunch of "cheese wedges" before even starting on the DP and make them all thin like the ones in the pics above, then you can make longer ones when needed during the build, but it helps to cut, debur and prep the wedges for welding prior to starting or you'll have a lot of hours of climbing in and out from under the car to test fit each piece...
Another thing to do is to mark a line (actually 2) on the pipe or weld 2 tabs that will keep it from rolling and allow you to make sure that each cut is aligned on the same axis (but 180* out) to the previous one or your DP will have a zig-zag in it's bend. if you can't put a tab on it put a line on it to line up with something fixed ( i use the edge of the clamp on the chop saw) Now, as for the 2 tabs or lines..make them 180 degrees apart because you have to rotate the pipe 180* for the 2nd cut of each wedge ...you'll see why when you make the cuts, if ya don't rotate it you'll get another zig-zag or re-weld a straight pipe out of it
, Im just trying to get everything sorted out and get my car to the track Saturday, My v-band flange warped on me so im going to have to get another one and re weld it on
