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Getting ready to throw all this on......

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Mackzero

15+ Year Contributor
595
1
Jan 2, 2004
Moses Lake, Washington
Allright guys, I have a fully stock 1G. It is a 1990 GSX Eclipse. I have read stuff in the newbie forum, and archives and figure it will be easier to get my question asked here, because I am doing a more advanced setup! Here is what I have:

Garrett T3/T4e 60-trim stage III wheel, .70ar comp., .63ar exhaust, 4in. intake.
Tial 38mm wastegate (external)
HKS Bov (old race style, not SSQ)
Big Spearco custom A/W intercooler with custom heat exchanger, etc.
Custom tubular manifold and O2 housing
Full 3" Turbo-back exhaust
Custom 4" intake
Walbro 255lph fuel pump and custom filter

What else do I need to get this up and running?

Apex SAFC II?
550cc injectors?
GmMaf w/ translator or 2G?
Custom intake manifold or 2G?
2G throttle body or BBK mustang style?

Please help me out here, I want to have this thing up and running by next month.:thumb:
 
Substitute the 60trim for a 50trim, it makes more power in all conditions and is proven on our cars as a serious pump and race gas performer. If you plan on running a T3/T4 you will need a custom manifold like a Turbonetics cast unit because it has a different flange than a Mitsu style.

For Injectors go with 660cc and a SAFC.

Don't bother with a throttle body or anything else just yet get that up and running on your car first then go from there. If you do too many things at once something will screw up and you won't know what it is because you have changed too many things at once.
 
Definitely get the 660's over the 550's. As for fuel control, the SAFC will work fine, but since you have a 1990 car with the eprom ecu I think it'd be wiser to get the keydiver chip (www.dsmchips.com) for your car. You won't have the timing problems that people get with an AFC. You probably won't need the afc after the chip because most of the people who have installed it have zeroed out their afc's after putting it in.

The 1g maf definitely needs to be changed out, 2g if you're on a budget or do the gm maf if not.

With the 255lph fuel pump you may need a afpr to control the pressure. Some people have problems with it flowing too much that the stock regulator can't handle it. I'd recommend the 190lph model instead - it flows enough to support 660's and does not need an afpr.

Other than that everything else sounds fine in your setup.
 
Take it in stages, otherwise you have a tuning nightmare on your hand considering you haven't tuned a car before.
Why the a/w ic, is this going to be a race only car? What's your goal here?

550s are definetly too small for a 60 trim. At least 660s, maybe 720s.
I'd take the maft over a 2G mas. I agree on the keydiver chip tip.
Get a supra pump over a walbro, it outflows the walbro at higher pressures. Or get that super pimp bosch pump if you want to go all out.
Don't forget you'll need a AFPR because your fuel pump will overflow the stock one, causing a high base pressure and non-linear fuel curve. Basically it's a pain to tune. I like the Buschur unit.

I'd do the fuel parts, then the FMIC, then the turbo.
 
Thanks guys :D
I am doing the liquid air, because it is a lot less of a pain to do the custom piping, and I allready had it from my previous project. I mainly drive the car around town, but like to get on it hard every once and a while. HP goals are set around 500. That is why I am doing the 60trim instead of the 50trim. I know I will have to put a new engine in soon.:thumb: I am going to have one built for me and then do the custom intake mani. and standalone. I think I might do drivetrain mods first though. I looked into it and it was like $270 for the 4bolt rear, spec stage IIIi clutch and other tranny stuff, and drivetrain stuff. Oh yeah, what do you all think of the Fidanza (??) flywheels?

Anyone know when I will see around 15psi with the specs of that turbo?? I figure that is where the boost will be set at for reg. driving.
 
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