stroker kit

[szewczyd]

I have been looking around for a stroker kit for my talon. I found a few and all have been around or real close to $2000. then i found this one for only $949.95 at http://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/59245/CS23KIT.
Why is this kit so much cheaper than the rest? Even if i add in the crower rods it still only comes out to like 1300. do you think a remanufactured crank wil be ok? please let me know your guy's opinions on this kit? i dont want to spend 1300 dollars and regret it at all? If I was to buy this kit i was going to go with the exact setup with the crower rods and the remanufactured crank, how does that sound?

Other sites that have a stroker kit for about $2000 :http://dss-racing.com/default.asp?section=Eclipse_Talon&subname=DSM&group=Engine

http://monkeywrenchracing.com/mwr_mitsubishi_4g63_stroker_kit.html

 

[RipperXX]

From what I have seen when it comes to engines... you tend to get what you pay for. I know I would hate to build a stroker and then a yr later have it blow.. Becoues besides the extrea work then that would probly cost more in the end anyway.


(Then again it could just be truely a good deal...But I still stick by what I said above)


Just my .02cents

 

[TurboTerror]

You should also have noticed that if you add the option of the new crank it goes up $450 which brings the total to 1699 w/crower rods. The price they have is really close to that monkey wrench racing one you posted.

 

[eclipsefwd]

On dsmtalk there is a guy who has that kit. He really seems to like it and it looks to be of very good quality. It is under the parts review section if you want to check it out. Good luck with the rebuild and let us know how it turns out. Because I know when my engine finally gives I am considering doing a 2.3 engina as well.
Ryan

 

[RipperXX]

Originally posted by eclipsefwd
He really seems to like it and it looks to be of very good quality.

And ricers think the same thing about the big stupid cheap wing they put on there honduh. But that does not make it true does it?

I just have a problem beliveing the kit would be as good as some of the others with such a deference in price.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

I just dropped my block off at the shop to have the 2.3L kit done. I personally know the guy that sets up the website for that shop. He's been at that shop for almost 20 yrs. Shop has been around for a LONG time. Mostly a V8 shop, but recently opened up to the import crowd.

I'm the stingiest bastard out there when it comes to dropping my $$ on products. I wouldn't have taken it there if I didn't trust the guys/shop to do the work. Unfortunately, I probably won't have the block in the car until early spring.

Basically, parts are parts. It's the people BUILDING the motor that make or break it. This shop just happens to be getting you the parts at a cheaper price than others. Also, the $200 reman'd crank is a lot better than $750 for a new one. Of course, they check it for cracks, magnaflux, etc.

Personally, I wouldn't have any problems with their kit. They may also be doing some headwork for me as well.

 

[beeztsi]

i have read reviews and called shops about their stroker kits. i will be purchasing the carshopinc the first of the year. most people including me will never exceed the limits of the eagle rods. the only thing i worried about was the crank. after talking to the guys at carshopinc, they said that the nitried treatment that is on new oem cranks is for durability... like dirty oil. it has nothing to do with strength of the crank.
even if you did use a used crank it would be the same thing as using a .010stock crank.

 

[eclipsefwd]

And ricers think the same thing about the big stupid cheap wing they put on there honduh. But that does not make it true does it?

Did you go and read the actual thread? Did you see the pics? I am not some little rice boy. The kit is nothing more than a remanufactured crank, eagle rods and weiseco pistons. Those parts are more than proven. How could they be of lesser quality just because they are cheaper. I really like this kit and think it is a great value.

 

[wishihadatalon]

so does that mean you either get a remanufactured 4g64 crank or a 4g63 crank. if 4g63 where do you get the .3 liters of displacement from. the site isn't that informative

 

[eclipsefwd]

Well I am no expert on this subject but I think it is a remanufactured 4g64 crank. The extra displacement is from the extra stroke the 4g64 crank gives you and by also boring out the cylinders to accept the 1mm oversized pistons. Someone with more knowledge please chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[TRBOTSI]

I wouldn't trust the remanufactured crank. That's the sole reason this kit is so much cheaper than all other kits.

 

[Big Red AWD]

I noticed the thread om DSMTalk this week. It seemed like it could be a good deal, but I was worried about the remanufactured cranks. I talked to a guy at Car Shop inc. and I am basicly under the inpression the cranks they use come out of a grab bag. He stated the remanufactured cranks could just be polished or they could be turned .010, or .020 over.

I'm building a new engine and the last thing that I want is a crank that has no margin for error. If I spin a bearing or something of that nature and the crank has already been turned .020 over the crank is useless. I wont be able to cut it down again, I would have to start over with another crank.

 

[silverbulletAWD]

If these are factory reconditioned cranks, which I'm sure they are. Or even anyone else's reconditioned cranks, they would have to have enough sense to magna flux these things before they even #### w/ them. I would have no concern of varying strengths of these cranks as opposed to originals and as long as they are re-nitrided there should be no issues other than future regrind limitations as Big Red AWD stated. But if you guys are willing to bore your cylinders 1mm over (which is the max. they can go) and take the chance of needing to buy a new block the first time you fry the pistons/rings all in the name of a couple cc's more displacement than you should have no problem buying another crank if you spin a rod bearing (which by the way shouldn't even happen if the motor is built and used correctly.) Because keep in mind that just as larger displacement can increase HP, so can reduced friction to to the rotating assembly, as would be gained from a smaller bearing surface, which would be derieved from underground crank journals. Not that I'm claiming 0.25mm to be a noticeable improvement. Besides, given the considerable reduction in redline this particular setup nets, one should be about 15-20% less worried about your motor coming apart at high RPM's. Just my .02 cents.

Andy

 

[Groomz]

www.forcedperformance.net

They sell a new 4G64 crankshaft for a bit under 600$.

wishihadatalon, the 2.3-liter stroker kit is centered around the 100mm stroke 4G64 crankshaft which provides most of the displacement gain. You would not gain any displacement from swapping in the exact same crankshaft that was in there to begin with.

Go buy a new 4G64 crank, some Eagle rods ( stock 4G63 rods or aftermarket rods work ) and custom JE pistons ( which have a 6mm shorter height to accomodate the longer stroke ). Probably will run around 1500$ if you shop around. Thats a new crank and the right stuff. Should save you over 200$ over the kits they sell.

 

[Suparata]

Did you guys know that there is basically no warranty on reground cranks from production shops? The best you can hope for is that they will give you another one if it brakes and guess what : they do brake especially the ones that were welded (talking from experience).The rest of the damage is on you . It's one thing to have the shop disassemble a block and diagnose things while doing it and grind the shaft themselves or take it to the shop they work with and a completely different thing to buy one done by somebody who is paid 2 bucks an hour and who will never see your sad face.
Yes parts are parts and reasons for low prices are many so figure out yourself what the reasons are . One thing is certain : GET A NEW CRANK!!!!!
Then make sure that everything is done right ( balance, torque plate and all the rest).

 

[Groomz]

I would definitely agree. Go with whatever rod and piston ( JE and Wiseco are the only ones I know that make stroker pistons ) combo you want, but remember that the crank is the most important part. Thats why I listed the FP crank because it is new, and I trust companies like FP.

Especially with a stroker motor, the crankshaft is the center piece, so why cheap out?