Stroker Engine vs Fully Built Engine

[OneSexyDSM]

I have searched, researched, read just about every post that has ever been posted about the Hybrid and stroker engines. Well I have a little question for everybody.

I am in the process of building up a head (crower springs, 272 cams and more to come as I get money) so as you would imagine I want a good block to put it on, at first I thought I would go hybrid, but after reading a ton of stuff I think the 2.3L stroker would be better. But then I started thinking that sure I would get the added torque and all but if I built up a 2.0L 4g63 (forged everything, ARP studs, metal head gasket, blah blah blah) I could run some crazy boost, have a very high rev-line, and it would be more reliable.

what do you think?

 

[Slappster]

Personally I'm goin with a fully built block and head from slowboy. I dont think the extra torque from a hybrid will be needed with 50 trim and n2o.

 

[Libila]

Do you want to run n2o? You have to think if you have a bigger displacement motor then you will be able to spool a larger turbo faster. I would call magnus and see if you can work something out. Their 2.4L is bad ass.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by Libila
I would call magnus and see if you can work something out. Their 2.4L is bad ass.

I agree

 

[gritsak]

so is your options either a basically stock bottom end with a 64 crank (making it 2.3) or a fully built block with the stock 63 crank? In that case i'd just go with the fully built block, but its not all that much more money to do the 2.3l. you can get cranks cheap and get some pistons from ross. if you have the time i'd just go 2.3 but im sure eitherway you'd be happy.

and yeah i'd also agree with the above, if i had the cash i'd be getting the magnus 2.4

 

[OneSexyDSM]

the problem with magnus is their engine is $5,000...I can save ~$1000 by just going .1L smaller.

 

[swordfish]

Just to let you know, you can build the magnus stroker for way under 5k. Even with my experimental 156mm rod setup I am still under 3k using custom pauter rods and custom ross pistons. And yes I paid full retail for the rods and pistons. So, $700 for rods, $600 for pistons, $120 for the 87mm bore headgasket, $300 for 4G64 block and crank, say $200 for ARP main stud, and head studs and lets just say you go to the most expensive machine shop in the entire world and they charge you $1000 for machine work (which you should be shot if this happens) and you are at a grand total of only 2920. I know I left off main bearings, rod bearing, oil pump on some smaller things but you get the picture. Maybe I should make a post about how much my entire engine with head cost. You would be amazed at what $5000 will buy. By the way, my engine and head with oversized valves, and everything plus a sheetmetal intake didnt cost 4k. I mean everything to have an assembled long block.

Anywho... We got the 2.3L project car all sorted today and took it out for a drive. 10 psi with a sleeper 16G. The extra .3L are very very very noticeable. It makes 10psi by 2800rpms. And for those of you who know how big the turbine wheel is in a sleeper 16G, you know that this is great spool. This Eagle/JE (8.8:1) 2.3L was done for a price that will make you cry (including machining and assembly. All in all, the extra .3L of displacment is worth every penny, considering the only price difference between a fully built 2.0L and a built 2.3L is the price of the crank which is very easily found for $100.

Hopefully this will help you and others with your decisions.

jeff

 

[Slappster]

My worry is reliability of hybrid motors with modified cranks.

 

[swordfish]

Umm.... some one has given you some bad info. The cranks are in now way modified. They are stock mitsu cranks. Unless you have them knife edged or something yourself.

jeff

 

[OneSexyDSM]

Originally posted by swordfish
Umm.... some one has given you some bad info. The cranks are in now way modified. They are stock mitsu cranks. Unless you have them knife edged or something yourself.

jeff

the Magnus ones are knife edged (well one of them is)

and I was wrong on price, magnus ones are $4000, but still a lot of money.

 

[coos]

Is this going to be a daily driver, or a full on drag car. I think that the 4g63 block built up would be the way to go for a daily driven, once in a while drag, freeway car; would be more reliable for the money.

 

[OneSexyDSM]

daily driver/my only car/drag car

thats why I want to over kill on everything I do to it...

 

[cait sith]

Originally posted by OneSexyDSM
daily driver/my only car/drag car

thats why I want to over kill on everything I do to it...

Your car is box stock, isn't it. When you start actually doing something to it and getting actually fast, you'll realize that it's not going to happen.

 

[OneSexyDSM]

Originally posted by cait sith


Your car is box stock, isn't it. When you start actually doing something to it and getting actually fast, you'll realize that it's not going to happen.

noo its not stock, i've got a fair ammount of mods.

18g, sparco core w/ custom piping, autmeter boost guage, hallman MBC, FATT turbo timer, removed aircan, K&N AirFilter, Dejon Tools Intake, Apexi turbo back exhaust, ported 2g manifold and o2 sensor housing, data logger, walbro 190, stevetek mod from the banjo bolt, 550 injectors...I think thats it (im probably forgetting something)

so im too the point that theres not much more I can "bolt on"

and what do you mean by "its not going to happen" you mean blowing up the engine? it happened once so its always in the back of my mind.

 

[cait sith]

It's an exponential curve. The faster you get your car to go, the more likely things are going to break. Having an 11 second car as an only car/daily driver, is just asking for breakdowns.

Just go ask Rdkt.

 

[theTuner]

Fully built 2.0 vs stroker... id go with the stroker for spoolup, you could run a huge turbo adn still have decent spool

btw caitsith, did the moderators take ur sig out or did you? just wondering