The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G TB just installed, thoughts/tips....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Tallen

20+ Year Contributor
2,739
8
May 28, 2002
Ashburn, Virginia
Well, after driving I felt a lil bottom end, but when I went for a cruise on I-80...WOW. She kept pulling and pulling really hard...harder than I ever imagined from a t-25.....I'd recommend this mod to all 2Gers....even those with basic mods. That 2G TB is SOOOOOO SMALL.

12mm socket (a universal fitting) helps too)
Coolant
Longer vac hoses
T-fitting for vac hoses
Die grinder...very necessary
Vac line caps (if you are going to keep the EGR function, you need 2 caps)
Vacuum
Eye, ear, mouth, and arm/hand protection for the grinding (that die grinder gets cold).

Install/Prep notes...
-RRE has some great install notes in their tech section.
-MCCC cleans the black gunk off the TB quite well.
-Remove the curise control box on the firewall....makes life easier!
-It's a pain porting the intake manifold.
-Where are my pants?
-Those little pinch clamps on the coolant lines are a pain to get off.
-Be prepared for coolant to leak out...everywhere.
-Put a rag in the intake mani to make cleanup easy.
-Use MCCC to clean the intake mani a lil while its open.
-Put a thin layer of silicon between the gasket and TB to prevent leaks....this fixed my leaks.
-Check the TPS, then reset ECU. Let it idle (learn) 5 mnutes.
-Remove the top right stud for easy porting.
-You can port the 2G gaskets to fit if your cheap (me).
-Don't forget to adjust the BISS...the RIGHT way...
-If your grinding bit gets clogged with aluminum, use a lil spray of penetrating oil on the bit and the intake mani. It will grind better/quicker/faster and won't buildup.
 
I know what you mean. At first I was like, "Umm, that was a pointless mod". Then I took it out on 35E and it was nuts how much it pulled. Think about how much of a difference it was for you and then think about me and my 16g at 20 psi. New turbo and bye bye vipers. :p .
:talon: :thumb:
-Cory
 
I just did my swap Sunday night and I'd like to add a few things to your list which is already pretty good. My swap didn't go as smoothly as I had planned. I tried to get the studs out using the double nut method but that didn't work. I used a dremel with a high speed cutting bit to port and that took about 2 hours and its not entirely port matched yet. Another thing is to pressure test the coolant passages for the FIAV first before putting it on. Unfortunately I didn't and had a nice coolant leak into the intake causing huge clouds of smoke out of the tailpipe as I was driving. So I had to do the throttle body coolant bypass mod which will probably haunt me come winter time.

So to summarize and additional tips:
1. Don't use a dremel. Use a Die Grinder.
2. Pressure Test the Coolant Lines for the FIAV
3. If you leave the UICP on, make sure to cover the opening so metal fragments don't fall in (nuts, bolts, sockets included):rolleyes:
4. 1G TB gaskets are cheap. I paid $15 for both sides of the TB.
5. Remove the strut bar (if you have one)
6. Using a wire wheel to unclog the bit works real well. The bit clogs because of high speeds and too much heat.

Well thats all I can think of.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top