SOLID front/rear aluminum motor mounts!

[DSMunknown]

So I was talking to my uncle (who has 25+ years experience with drag racing muscle cars) about solid mounts. He still has his OEM mounts installed on his '85 Camaro. He just hasn't gotten around to installing his polyurethanes.

He brought up and interesting point about solids cracking/damaging the frame. The vibration has to take a tole on something somewhere. He also noted that other things also have the possibility of wearing/breaking faster.

All thoughts are welcome, of course.

Just thinking out loud - with these mounts perhaps things like steering responsivness and braking may also become improved.

[biglady112]

I can say that braking has improved. The car responds when the pedal is depressed. No chassis slop or nose dive anymore.

Your uncles car also is a lead sled and the engine is configured the correct way. Our engines are facing the wrong direction andare trying to jump out of the engine bay each time the gas is pressed. Nor is his car a wheel hopping machine like the AWD and FWD mistubishis.

Steven

[romeen]

Just thinking out loud - with these mounts perhaps things like steering responsivness and braking may also become improved.

I agree with Steven. The car's response to all inputs (throttle, braking, etc.) is much crisper now. The car is just so much more fun to drive with this mod. You give up a bit of comfort for a big gain in performance.

[DSMunknown]

Perhaps I should reconsider my earlier statement when thinking about the rust factor on the strut towers.

[KazooGS-T]

So what exactly is the price for these and who can I send the money to? :P

[DSMunknown]

^ Are you effing kidding me?! Read through the thread!

[1992awdlaser]

Originally Posted by KazooGS-T

So what exactly is the price for these and who can I send the money to? :P

If you read the first page you would find that information.

Why are people so (lazy)

[KazooGS-T]

I read the thread twice already, . I somehow skipped the part where biglady said to email him, sorry guys. All I got was around $40+8.95 shipping. I was trying to have possibly the information such as paypal and the direct amount needed to go ahead and send the money, for others to use as well. Sorry guys, chill out!

[Black99gst]

Originally Posted by biglady112

^^^^^

This is what I am talking about. Are you serious? Look at how active this thread has been.

has been, i tried to get in on that 16g waste gate mod by Mr. Peepers, but he wasn't doing it anymore because he was bombarded with people who wanted it done... i guess how i should have worded it was "Once i find some spare motor mounts, i really hope this is still available, that way i can send them off to you and get solids for $50..."

sorry for the stupidity

[biglady112]

I guess I live in a different world. I have a toy and a daily driver. So it is no big deal for me to pull my mounts if I had to. That is all I get from people. Well "if" I can find some mounts I would love this. If you want them you will make and effort for them. So no simpathy from me that you can't take care of business. If I want something for my car, my wife, or anything for the matter, I am going to make every effort I can for it. I usually don't half ass and blow smoke up people's ass. But not everyone can be like me. We have four cars and there is only two of us. Once we started making big power and breaking stuff, we learned long ago that a dsm cannot be the only vechicle.

And for the record there are currently four sets of mounts down at the shop getting worked on. So yea, this is still going on.

Steven

[blcknspo0ln]

Originally Posted by biglady112

I guess I live in a different world. I have a toy and a daily driver. So it is no big deal for me to pull my mounts if I had to. That is all I get from people. Well "if" I can find some mounts I would love this. If you want them you will make and effort for them. So no simpathy from me that you can't take care of business. If I want something for my car, my wife, or anything for the matter, I am going to make every effort I can for it. I usually don't half ass and blow smoke up people's ass. But not everyone can be like me. We have four cars and there is only two of us. Once we started making big power and breaking stuff, we learned long ago that a dsm cannot be the only vechicle.

And for the record there are currently four sets of mounts down at the shop getting worked on. So yea, this is still going on.

Steven

Stop fighting, you sissy's Although I do agree. I wanted these mounts bad and I searched for quite a while before I got my hands on a set. If anyone needs a spare 2g rear mount, I have one from when I switched (my front one was donated to a good cause ). Just find someone parting out a 2g, i'm sure they'll gladly get rid of them!

[DSMunknown]

I asked kiggly about what he uses in his FWD dragster.

Originally Posted by kiggly

No, I'm running rubber mounts at 3 points and one mount off a spherical. I'd be afraid of breaking the block with solid aluminum mounts. I would be very surprised if any block mounting bosses lived through tire shake with solid mounts.

[dsm-onster]

I'm not running 700+whp. So I'm not worried about as much instant torque surge. Kiggly has gone where no FWD has gone. So I expect more than one issue he would be concerned about to be what no one else should worry about.

I welded my mounts several years ago. My daily driver powered by a 60-1 and now a holset, both showing over 40lbs/min and with suspension mods that cause the front tires to dig on accel (lowered rear joint by 2.2" on the lower A arm) has seen no signs of damage. CG lowered 1.9". Stiffened rear springs. It's fine for 4-500whp, 4K studderbox, NLTS, a heated 6 puck clutch, and drag radials.

[DSMunknown]

Any other thoughts on having four solids for the DD?

[dsm-onster]

Me? . . . Shifts better. Snappy response with the laggy 60-1. I can launch at a higher rpm. Vibrations aren't that bad at all. I have both b-shafts, though.

[SonySlave]

Biglady has e-mail!

[allgripnoslip]

Just received mine yesterday!

[DSMunknown]

Installed mine today. Took it out for a drive.

As far as Romeen's statement of a "racecar" feel, that was not my experience. There is hardly any increase in cabin vibration. Noticeable, yes. Overwhelming, no. Screws aren't backing themselves out, change isn't jiggling all over the place, and there's no hint of me having an orgasm due to vibration. I think Romeen was just having a "ricer" post and may have been overly excited about the modification. I'm pretty neutral on the subject.

Perhaps I'm not experiencing the same/similar thing because I still have the OEM side mounts in. They won't be there too much longer, but they're in there for now.

Idle is where I see the most vibration. After 10-15MPH in 1st, I don't much notice the vibrations. Something I will definitely get used to, in a very neutral sense.

I wasn't able to open her up all the way, but I will very soon. When I took the car out earlier this week, one of my oil return line bolts blew off, so there's oil spitting everywhere. Thought I blew Tiny Tim. Guess not. So I'm trying to take it easy for now.

A good mod? Sure. The best eva? Doesn't top my list.

[DSMunknown]

I would like to extend two how-to guides in relation to this modification. Someone say please?


#1

Originally Posted by romeen

Hey Anthony. I don't even have an engine hoist. I used two scissor (screw type) jacks: one under the oil pan and one under the tranny bell housing. Used a block of wood on top of each jack to distribute the weight over a wider area. Used two jacks just so there wouldn't be as much weight on one area although you can do just the oil pan if it is going to be like that for a day or less. You really don't have to lift the engine all that much. You just want to relieve some of the weight. You'll know when you have it right because the cross bolts can be easily removed by hand. Lift a little/lower a little until the bolt feels loose and just comes right out by hand.

The front one is very easy and self explanatory when you look at it. The rear mount can be a BITCH! I had removed/replaced them before so it wasn't too bad this time. But that rear one kicked my ass the first time. You need to remove battery and tray, probably EVAP, shifter cable bracket (bolts to top of bell housing) and free the cable end links from the shifter linkage. This is because the cables exit the firewall and run over the top