SOLID front/rear aluminum motor mounts!

[biglady112]

No I mean zero WHEELSPIN. I put all the power to the ground now. Rather than spin/hop/waste the power anymore. I spoke correctly.

And I need to clarify. I do not understand why everyone assumes I have mounts laying around. I thought I mentioned it previously, but I will anyway. I do not have or keep anything in stock. Everyone that asks about these, needs mounts. I am assuming this is for no down time as their cars are drivers or only cars. Providing mounts is not my responsibility. I drive an 89 colt. That is all that I have parts laying around for. I had to source my own parts. I expect you to do the same.

Steven

[JWoodley]

Using the term "wheelspin" might be a bit misleading. I've never seen a FWD leave the hole without wheel spin. Most people assume wheelspin to be traction related. Unless you are using wrinkle walls or some other type of miracle worker on a high power FWD, then that might be an exception.

The spinning/hopping action you are referring to is "wheel hop". It can be caused be several factors and is usually the reason for the windshield wipers being turned on after a hard FWD launch.

If the wheels didn't spin at all, you'd break axles like they were going out of style.

Nothing personal, I'm just looking for a little clarification. Depending on how my Prothanes do, I might actually looking into these myself.

[biglady112]

Well bro, seems how you are so knowledgable with your AWD car, if you must know I broke two axles in a week last month. Both on the launch with slicks. Basically as soon as I let the clutch out. They broke before my rear tires could even get to the beams.

With that said, AGAIN, WHEELSPIN. I have been in the FWD world for eight years now. I am on my second 89 CSM. The other car was a 510whp monster. That car wheel hopped. That is the reason I came up with this idea. End of story. I am on a 1.6L with a 16g and no intercooler. I do not have enough power or torque to blow the tires off. But, I would wheel hop like mad before the mounts and diff. I still get really bad wheel hop on the street if I want. But that is only if I make it. Like a studder box launch on a public road with 30+psi in the tires. That will do it no matter how setup a car is.

Again, wheelspin. I have a very good alignment, new struts, AWD springs, and LSD insert and 6 years of dsm experience on my side. Not to mention 8-9 years of racing.

And this needs to be said. Stop pming me or emailing looking for handouts. Fend for yourselves. I am not tracking anything down, supplying anything or selling anything. The way it works is you folks send me your mounts, we work them over and send them back. That is it. Nothing more, nothing less. I am sorry.

Any more questions?

Steven

[mnetwork]

I would like to know more about this 1.6l setup... please share...

[dsm-onster]

I can attest to the benefit of metal mounts. If you want to see broken axles, I can take pics. . . But I think you'll believe us. I'll bring up a hot topic. Stiffer motor mounts, some cheap suspension mods, and a few axles are cheaper than an awd chassis.

I'm not saying that this upgrade is the great equalizer to FWD vs. AWD traction. I've done other mods. . . That have done even more. But stiffening the 'motor roll' helps everything work at least "properly" by keeping the shock/recoil in check and insures consistancy which is nearly important. There are FWD chassis seeing 1.9 sec 60 fts. Considering the 25-30whp less drivetrain loss AND 200+ lbs of extra weight, where does AWD provide a benefit when a FWD can demonstrate 1.9sec 60fts? I'm not starting a flame fest really.

And don't give us "well why doesn't Shep run FWD if it's better". I'm not saying it's better. I'm asking the doubters where the benefit of AWD is over FWD when a FWD can do a 1.9sec 60ft considering they both have the same engine mods. If you can answer that question then you can see that miracles are just occurences of nature with a lack of apparent explanation. Much like a 500whp evoIII 16g powered 2.0L DSM . So don't question the results. Just believe it or not.

[RU2SLOW?]

BIGLADY how can I get in touch with you to get a set of these? Please PM your info ASAP so I can Paypal you and get the ball rolling- these mounts look like exactly what I need for my FWD 1G build!

[biglady112]

Thanks matt. At least someone has their eyes open to other possibilities. And I just want to say that these are for everyone. Not just FWD. Toan is having a blast with his two mounts. And he is awd. So please folks don't be shy.

And I am sure just a few posts up I said fend for yourselves. If you want these you contact me. If there was some money in it for me than maybe. But there is not. You are big boys and girls. You can pm me or email if you are serious. Either you want them or you don't.

Steven

[biglady112]

Here are links pertaining to my car.

Mirage Turbo/Colt GT :: View topic - Steven Johnson 1989 Dodge Colt Gt(4G61)

Mirage Turbo/Colt GT :: View topic - Biglady's update thread

[Jst4Cyl]

Originally Posted by dsm-onster

And don't give us "well why doesn't Shep run FWD if it's better". I'm not saying it's better. I'm asking the doubters where the benefit of AWD is over FWD when a FWD can do a 1.9sec 60ft considering they both have the same engine mods. If you can answer that question then you can see that miracles are just occurences of nature with a lack of apparent explanation. Much like a 500whp evoIII 16g powered 2.0L DSM . So don't question the results. Just believe it or not.

Benefit is when there is a little rain out and you try to play.

Not being cocky, but my bone stock AWD pulled low 1.8's all day. But even so, say I pull a 1.7 and you pull your 1.9 your still going to (should) pull around the AWD if the power/weight/mods are the same. I just like the fact I can rock stock tires and drag my gas tank like a low rider

Biglady, do you want the old mounts out before I ship them?

[SonySlave]

I can't wait til' I pull my motor here soon so I can send my mounts to you! Such a killer deal for such a nice product!

[biglady112]

No guys. Please leave you old mounts in there. We need something to take our measurements off of. That way we can ensure that these will bolt back into your car without issue. We treat each mount as if it were a new and unique mount. Well, because they are. We get so many different sets, and I am sure there are slight differences even in the same mounts, we just want this to be an exact copy of what comes out of your car. This is truly a bolt in product when finished.

Steven

[Jst4Cyl]

Awesome work, I'm sure.

Everything you have said has been clear cut, I'm unsure why people would be backing out.

I'll try and pull mine this week and get them out by this coming weekend.

Kudos to you just for taking the time to do it BigLady.

I had seen where it had been discussed that doing all 4 mounts where the first thoughts and was later decided that only 2 mounts were advised. If one decided to do all four what kind of price would that run (approximate)

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl

Benefit is when there is a little rain out and you try to play.

Not being cocky, but my bone stock AWD pulled low 1.8's all day. But even so, say I pull a 1.7 and you pull your 1.9 your still going to (should) pull around the AWD if the power/weight/mods are the same. I just like the fact I can rock stock tires and drag my gas tank like a low rider

Biglady, do you want the old mounts out before I ship them?

Regardless of drivetrain lose; if you say both cars had same weight and mods etc,
and If both cars dyno'd equal "power"
and the AWD pulled a 1.7 and the FWD pulled a 1.9
and driving was the same, how would the FWD pull around the AWD, if they had the same power/weight but the AWD still took off faster? And isnt the AWD gearing more ideal for the track...

FWD setups can be made fast also, and there are plenty examples of that,
but truth of the matter is most people dont want to put the effort/ research
in doing so when there is a AWD model for this car for the same price.
The same money/effort spent in getting the fwd to hook could be equally spent on the AWD in making more power.
And when both cars are making serious power, the FWD will need slicks to run a decent time were as
the AWD can drive to the track on his street tires, run a good time, and drive home on those same tires;
without having to compromise his handling for a straight line specific suspension setup.
not to sound biased though....

Anyways; I am starting to consider getting my front motor mount done.
I have prothanes all around, but id like to just try it in the front.
I have to track done another awd front mount first though as I cant take the one on there off since i cannot have any down time on my car due to my job.

Id like to know if any of you already had prothanes and went to these welded mounts, is there still a significant difference in the shifting?

[mnetwork]

I'm confused... you put the 1.6l in your eclipse?

[projecTSI]

Originally Posted by mnetwork

I'm confused... you put the 1.6l in your eclipse?

He drives a Colt, not an Eclipse, which came with a 4g61t, turbo 1.6L engine.

[biglady112]

It just says eclipse in my profile, because there are no provisions for mirage or colt in the horsepower list. So a 90 FWD eclipse was the closest I could get.

Steven

[Jst4Cyl]

Originally Posted by Black_Bullet

Regardless of drivetrain lose; if you say both cars had same weight and mods etc,
and If both cars dyno'd equal "power"
and the AWD pulled a 1.7 and the FWD pulled a 1.9
and driving was the same, how would the FWD pull around the AWD, if they had the same power/weight but the AWD still took off faster? And isnt the AWD gearing more ideal for the track...

You said it right there my friend. Rotating mass is what helps on the top side. That's why there are Alum. driveshafts, light-weight flywheels. Even if they are the same weight it doesn't mean they share the same weight in the same area.

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl

You said it right there my friend. Rotating mass is what helps on the top side. That's why there are Alum. driveshafts, light-weight flywheels. Even if they are the same weight it doesn't mean they share the same weight in the same area.

But he said if they were the same power, so that already factors in the drivetrain lose...
How I see it, same power is same power, it would just mean the one with more drivetrain lose would
need a tad bit more boost or something else to close the gap and supposing both cars for this example
weighed the same amount, but the AWD pulled 1.7, and the FWD pulled 1.9 I dont see how the fwd would pass the AWD, especially since the AWD is geared better for 1/4mile acceleration... Thats just what makes sense to me though.

Sorry this is way off topic anyways and not trying to start a debate nor
pick at what Dsmonster said originally, I was just throwing in my confusion to the statement.

[dsm-onster]

Originally Posted by Black_Bullet

But he said if they were the same power, so that already factors in the drivetrain lose...

Really, no I didn't Having "the same engine mods" means that the whp is obviously different between the two. Favoring fwd, though the fwd is much cheaper to purchase at this time. Also, an AWD weighs 3-400 lbs more and say it gains .2sec at the 60ft vs. a decently set up FWD (1.7 vs 1.9). So what happens at the end of the track even if the wheel hp is the same? If you can achieve a 1.9sec 60ft with your fwd, then you DEFINATELY have a chance to match an AWD with the same engine mods by the 1/4 mile.

And a FWD is geared better for its particular drivetrain, IMHO.

Yea, this is way off topic. I didn't really bring up another topic to talk about it in paricular, just to show the potential of the product discussed.