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A/C Compressor Dilemma

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zippyshoe

15+ Year Contributor
440
18
Aug 10, 2005
New Holland, Pennsylvania
For the past two days, my car has been making some very noticeable rattling/clicking :beatentodeath: sounds, which could be heard inside the cabin. Today, I popped the hood to see if I could pinpoint the source of this rather loud noise. I'm 90% sure it is coming from the A/C compressor. Once I positively determine that it is a faulty A/C compressor, I am debating on whether to go to the expense of having it replaced, or to simply cut/remove the belt which drives the compressor and live without any A/C. I am leaning towards simply removing the belt at this point, especially since this car will no longer be my daily driver shortly. Also, I'm thinking I may even gain a few wheel horsepower. What do you guys think? Thanks a lot.
 
I say remove it.

I just took mine out last week. I removed the idler pulley, compressor, all lines, condensor etc. I bet I took 35lbs out and now the radiator will get fresh air directly on it. Plus it cleaned up the engine bay considerably.
Tip: If you do decide to remove it all, the compressor can be finangled out from above. Just unbolt the brake fluid reservoir and snake it through. That'll save you from pulling the axle out to remove it from below.

Edit: Oh and if you do want to keep a/c and know you have a bad compressor, I have two good extras laying around.
 
housegsx said:
I say remove it.

I just took mine out last week. I removed the idler pulley, compressor, all lines, condensor etc. I bet I took 35lbs out and now the radiator will get fresh air directly on it. Plus it cleaned up the engine bay considerably.
Tip: If you do decide to remove it all, the compressor can be finangled out from above. Just unbolt the brake fluid reservoir and snake it through. That'll save you from pulling the axle out to remove it from below.

Edit: Oh and if you do want to keep a/c and know you have a bad compressor, I have two good extras laying around.

Thanks for the info, housegsx. I almost forgot about all those other A/C components besides the compressor. Did you notice anything on the butt-dyno after removing the A/C?
 
staticbrainwash said:
Is there anything you have to do with belts or lines? I read on here you can leave the heater core lines open and it's alright, but what about the belt?

As far as I can tell, there shouldn't be any problem with removing the A/C belt. The only devices interconnected by this belt are the A/C compressor, the crankshaft, and the idler pulley. By removing this belt, you are simply removing a load from the crankshaft (the A/C compressor). All the other accessories (power steering pump, alternator, water pump, etc.) are driven by other belts.
 
Awesome, thats been a question of mine for a while now. So you can just chunk the compand idler. Nice.

I will definitely be doing this while i have the motor out.

Good luck with yours too if you choose to remove or replace.
 
If housegsx is willing to give up his compressor I would go that route, sounds pretty cheap. If you are worried about performance, I have seen many dsms running AC and low numbers. Im not a 2g but I have mine removed, definately easier to get around the motor!

You will have to take it to a shop to get the Refridgerent removed/replaced, unless you have an evacuator.
 
Unless these are going to be track only cars, i would reconsider removing the AC. In all honesty the AC takes up very little space in the engine compartment. The weight is a very small issue as well, the rule of thumb is every 100 pounds is like .1 s, 1 mph, or 10HP on a 14ish second car. So the gain from the weight loss is minimal. The compressor also don't have much drag unless it's on. unless your doing serious bracket racing or going for some record it really isn't worth removing it. Think about the next 100 degree day you wanna take it for a drive, and then remember you don't have AC. You'll wish you still had it.
 
Maybe you should have prefaced that with "IMO", because i compleatly disagree. I don't need AC, it doesn't get THAT hot in michigan. And i feel the like the lines for AC in the engine bay are an eyesore. And also, i have an AT awd, so ANY hp and torque i can free up is good with me. That and my AC has been dead for 2 years and it hasn't bothered me yet, so my not chuck it all.
 
I used my a/c maybe a half dozen times in the 5 years that I've had it. And it was my daily driver up to this past winter. It never really blew that cold and wouldn't take a charge so I just though I would be better off without it. Plus I found that these cars suck balls to drive with the a/c on in traffic and that is about the only time I would want to use a/c anyway.
And I think the weight is fairly substantial. When you add that up with my emissions crap, removed cruise control, balance shafts, foglights etc. it's probably about 100 pounds off the front end. And that's alot especially when i am considering autocrossing or even an open track day or two next summer. But it won't be a track only car.

staticbrainwash said:
Is there anything you have to do with belts or lines? I read on here you can leave the heater core lines open and it's alright, but what about the belt?
I just disconnected the a/c where they are bolted to the firewall behind my battery. I'm sure a 1g is similar. The belt isn't needed in any way. The other belt on the crank pulley runs all other accesories via the waterpump pulley.
 
Ok you maybe right that it should be IMO, but i still belive that it makes the thing a pos to drive when the air don't work. Why does your car suck in traffic with the AC on? is it overheating, if thats the case then you have a bigger problem somewhere that you need to fix.

Staticbrainwash - I think that you misunderstood what i said about the "drag" from the AC compressor. Tthere is none. The only noticable power that is eaten up by the compressor is from the inertia of the pulley/clutch assembly. if you could some how send me a scan of RPM vs. time for your car in ever gear, i could send you a scan with the amount of horsepower and torque that the AC compressor consumes at every RPM and gear. If not an approximate guess of the times it take to go from 3000-6000 in every gear would be ok as well. First gear may be a little tricky, but thats where the most power is absorbed by the compressor becuase the angular acceleration is the hightest.
 
No, nothing was wrong. It just completely changes the driving style while the compressor is running. Very bogged down off boost and it needs revved a tad more pulling out from a stop. It wasn't bad at all, just noticeable and I guess I'd just rather be a little warm than deal with it. haha. Plus gas mileage. Oh well, to each his own.
 
I wasn't trying to start shit but yes, you have an extreme advantage with 9:1. Me in my 1g auto turbo, i've got #1, an auto trans, #2 i've only got 7.8:1 comp. So when AC is on, i BOG LIKE CRAZY. So i havn't used it in years (not to mention it isn't even cold anymore anyway). So to me, having it gone wouldn't be a big difference at all.

All i was really trying to get at is that people all have their own opinions of how they want a car. So don't call a car without AC a POS as a general statement and expect to get no flak for it. Otherwise you're all good man. Keep on boostin!
 
Well, if you change your mind and decide to keep a/c, i'm pretty sure its only the clutch assembly inside the compressor, because that's what was wrong with mine. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
 
Weenie4 said:
Well, if you change your mind and decide to keep a/c, i'm pretty sure its only the clutch assembly inside the compressor, because that's what was wrong with mine. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since.

Well, the A/C is gone, or at least the A/C belt is gone. I also believe the problem was the clutch assembly within the compressor based on the sounds it made. Now that this problem is fixed, today the plastic neck at the top of the radiator where the hose attaches decided to break-off. So now I will be shopping for a new radiator - Koyo's model is looking good right now (no plastic). This just isn't my weekend.:toobad:
 
Okay, I am in the same situation here with the compressor being shot, so I decided on removing the belt and just bypassing the ac. I tried going to the local Pep Boys and asking for a belt for non ac but they said there isn't one listed for our cars, and they would need to know the exact size needed. What belt did you guys use who bypassed the ac?
 
Yep, it is the only accessory that runs on that belt. Cut it. The other belt runs the water pump, alt, and p/s.
 
The AC is really nice when it rains and on the interstate. Other than those two situations I never use it. It feels like it sucks up 30% of the torque the engine is making off-boost and makes the car dog slow in city driving.
 
I have a 97 Spyder GS as well as my 92 and living in Florida its a must for a DD,at least for me.Now,the 92 had a shot compressor when I bought it,I swapped engines and the compressor on that one was fine but the fittings are different everywhere on every line and will not bolt up.I took the whole AC system from the donor car and was going to swap it out but found that there is a manifold block on top of the compressor.It would be much easier to swap that block than to swap the evaporator under the dash and everything else.Does anyone know if that manifold block on the compressor is interchangeable from a 92-94?

At the moment I said screw it and took all the ac stuff out of the car and the 2 complete systems are just hanging out in my bedroom...once the 92 is back at my house I will be looking to reinstall it.This will be a pretty much track only car but will have to be driven to the strip....I'd like defrost so I can see and ac if I ever have to drive it to work.
 
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