arp headstud install help

[91-gsx]

i was wondering what the procedure is for removing the stock headstuds and replacing them with arp headstuds without removing the head.
thanks for any help

 

[Below Ambient]

one by one... its pretty straightforward...

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

you go one by one and start in the middle. Make sure to torque in steps and properly. it's really not too big a deal. Just make sure you use a good amount of the lube provided when installing the studs.

best of luck to you.

 

[v2ner]

Might as well take the head off, look at everything to see how things are going. Maybe a headgasket as well.

 

[Flash]

I'm doing my headgasket when I do my studs. Why get studs when you still have the stock head gasket? Doesn't make sense to me.

 

[project_tsi]

First off, I'd pull the head and clean things up while doing this. You never know if the HG will full seal back up one you loosen the head.

It's really not too difficult of a process.
Using a 10mm allen head drive socket and breaker bar, loosen the stock head bolts and remove. Then use a magnet or needle nose priers and remove the head bolt washers, ARP includes new washers in the box.

Next, install the new washers that ARP supplies you. It's easier to put the washers in now and then screw down the studs, b/c some washers would get caught on the vavle springs if the studs were in first, making it a bi***. Just use some needle nose pliers and set them over the stud holes.

Now, Make sure to install the head studs in the correct way. ARP head studs have a 6mm IIRC allen drive on the top. One by one, take some high temp RTV silicone and coat the threads going into the block, this will help stop oil push through the studs that protrude into oil galleys. Then, using a 6mm allen driver, screw the studs into the block until they stop moving, then back off each stud about one quarter turn. You don't want want the studs to be locked in.

Ok, so now you've got all your studs in with washers and they are not locked in.

Now open the package of ARP moly assembly lube that was included. Take a stud nut and put a dab of lube inside the threads. It really doesn't take mutch, and there is plenty in the package. Using a 14mm 12pt socket, thread the nut onto a stud, and do the rest like this. Proceed to snug up all nuts by hand. Now get out your trusty tourque wrench and torque the studs in steps, starting from the middle and working your way out. I generally torque in steps of 30-60-90, but thats me. You may choose to do 25-50-75, etc, depending on your setup.

After a few heat cycles I generally check torque on the studs and tighten back to spec if needed. After that, you should be all done.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

^^ what he said.

 

[jmakado]

One other thing that is VERY important. You need to clean the holes very well! You WILL get oil and dirt in there when you pull the head. Use some Q-tips to clean out in there. compressed air is also good once you have cleaned out all the oil and solids with Q-tips. Don't skip this step.

 

[danyz250f]

Also in the haynes book it says to get a tap, and tap "clean out" the head stud hole threads in the block with the same size tap.

 

[91-gsx]

First off, I'd pull the head and clean things up while doing this. You never know if the HG will full seal back up one you loosen the head.

It's really not too difficult of a process.
Using a 10mm allen head drive socket and breaker bar, loosen the stock head bolts and remove. Then use a magnet or needle nose priers and remove the head bolt washers, ARP includes new washers in the box.

Next, install the new washers that ARP supplies you. It's easier to put the washers in now and then screw down the studs, b/c some washers would get caught on the vavle springs if the studs were in first, making it a bi***. Just use some needle nose pliers and set them over the stud holes.

Now, Make sure to install the head studs in the correct way. ARP head studs have a 6mm IIRC allen drive on the top. One by one, take some high temp RTV silicone and coat the threads going into the block, this will help stop oil push through the studs that protrude into oil galleys. Then, using a 6mm allen driver, screw the studs into the block until they stop moving, then back off each stud about one quarter turn. You don't want want the studs to be locked in.

Ok, so now you've got all your studs in with washers and they are not locked in.

Now open the package of ARP moly assembly lube that was included. Take a stud nut and put a dab of lube inside the threads. It really doesn't take mutch, and there is plenty in the package. Using a 14mm 12pt socket, thread the nut onto a stud, and do the rest like this. Proceed to snug up all nuts by hand. Now get out your trusty tourque wrench and torque the studs in steps, starting from the middle and working your way out. I generally torque in steps of 30-60-90, but thats me. You may choose to do 25-50-75, etc, depending on your setup.

After a few heat cycles I generally check torque on the studs and tighten back to spec if needed. After that, you should be all done.

thanks man. this helps a lot. i do not have any arp lube available so i am planning to use 30w motor oil. have any of you done this? any tips would be appreciated.
thanks again

 

[daren_p]

thanks man. this helps a lot. i do not have any arp lube available so i am planning to use 30w motor oil. have any of you done this? any tips would be appreciated.
thanks again

There should be a note that came with the ARP studs, when you use motor oil the torque spec is higher then when done with the ARP lube. Did you buy these studs new?, if so they should have came with a package of lube. I know when I bought mine, the first set was missing parts & so was the replacement set. I need 2 sets to make one complete one.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

There should be directions in the box. It is recommended to use a heavy motor oil weight (almost tranny type) and torque to 115+ lb/ft. Oh, and when you initially screw the headstuds into the block, only FINGER tighten them until you are ready to put the caps on finish the torqueing sequence. Also, there is an appropriate torque sequence that is outlined in your chiltons/haynes/FSM, you may want to take a peek at that before you finish up.