Need Help With This AFPR Question

[brute]

So I have a Walbro 255 and I really need a AFPR. The car isn't running right now, so I'm shopping around. I have decided on an Aeromotive set-up, but I see that the Aeromotive has -an fittings in and out. So I have a predictament which you guys will help me with:

Should I buy the Aeromotive and then get fitting adapters for -an to stock fuel rails

-or-​

Should I buy the Aeromotive and then get a -an fuel rail as opposed to spending on adapters?

 

[larsrya8]

I'm using the Import Evolution Aeromotive kit... comes with everything you need for less than $200 except the fuel pressure gauge. I actually got a combo of the AFPR and a 255HP.

I wouldn't get a new fuel rail, but you could re-tap the end of the rail if you decided to.

 

[brute]

That kit comes with everything except for a pressure gauge. What gauge do you recommend? B&M Mechanical or should I get that Marshall liquid-filled. Does it really matter? I'd like the cheapest gauge available that will work right and everything.

 

[larsrya8]

I got the plain black Marshall gauge.

If you do get the IE kit, don't use the thread sealant that comes with it. You need the yellow stuff, because the white dissolves in gasoline.

 

[sweet97]

I'm due for a new gauge for my AFPR and Jegs has the for $15.95 and Summit for $19.95. Mark

 

[daren_p]

Just get the fpr install kit (ie AN fuel rail fitting, etc), don't waste you money on a whole new fuel rail, the stocker is plenty to make some big numbers. As for the gauge it doesn't really matter which one you get. Liquid filled is better for vibrations, it will dampen pointer movement & help extend the life of the gauge. Its a good idea to get the gauge checked if you know someone that can do it for you, the cheep automotive & actually even the expensive ones can easily be a couple psi out.

The gauge that I'm running I got from my work, its a mechanical gauge but our cost is $35 & I tested about 5 gauges before I found one that was right on in the 40-45 psi area. To compare the automotive gauges that they sell would cost us about $5 to buy so you can imagine how accurate they are.

 

[Turbocharged]

The B&M gauges fall apart easily. Im on my third. Its not so bad because they are cheap to replace.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I got the afpr and everything needed for install including SS line from extremepsi. Also came with the carbon fiber liquid filled guage. Total cost was about $240 I think. Not to bad.

Or you could just get the FPR and guage for $165 and then buy the SS line and fittings seperately from jegs and save a couple bucks. Either way it is not really worth it to upgrade the rail IMO. As already stated you can drill out the end of the rail with an 11/16 bit, tap the hole and use a -08 to -06 flair union reducer fitting if you are lookin for a direct -an connection to the rail.