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fuel filter catch can mod...

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eclipsegsx97979

15+ Year Contributor
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Nov 2, 2004
springfield, Massachusetts
i did the fuel filter catch can mod off the valve cover from www.vfaq.com .... my question is does the line coming off the fuel filter go back to the intake or no? right now i have it going back to the intake..... any suggestions?? also do you suggest changing the actual fuel filter on the car? i have 62,000 mi on my 97 gsx... im not sure where the fuel filter is and how hard it is to change???

thanks,

kevin
 
Wait, are you talking about replacing your stock fuel filter in you fuel lines or are you talking about that cheapo kragen paper fuel filter that in put in the line from the valve cover breather hose going into the intake?

If your are talking about the maintenance fuel filter, I don't know how hard it is, I've never done it. If you are talking about the valve cover breather hose w/a fuel filter in there, yes it goes back into the intake. If you decide not to route it into the intake, it would be a good idea to get a real catch can.
 
"...does the line coming off the fuel filter go back to the intake or no?" - eclipsegsx97979
Yes. It's plumbed right back into the intake as before. As I'm sure you know, all you're doing is sticking a filter inline with the breather hose in order catch the occasional droplets of oil that would usually end up all over the inside of your intercooler. Genius design, Mitsubishi. Actually, there is some baffling under the valve to keep most of the oil out of the breather hose. Unfortunately, a small amount still sneaks by, hence the reason for this mod.

If you didn't use a clear filter, you'll need to take it off once every 2 or 3 months to check for oil buildup. Also, if you haven't already cleaned out your intercooler, now would be a good time. Otherwise there wasn't much point in doing this.

"your fuel filter is on your pump and it is kinda a pain there is a write up on vfaq.com" - waiting2bl33d
Well there is a kind of pre-filter on the inlet of the pump in the tank, but the one that's normally referred to as the fuel filter is mounted on the firewall right next to your battery in the engine compartment. It's round, usually black, and the dead give away is the hose that runs out of it into the fuel rail, behind the valve cover. Yes, it is a pain to get [a wrench] to. I've found on my 1G that it's a lot easier to change the filter when the battery and battery tray are removed. :laser:
 
the stock fuel filter is to the right of the battery towards the bottom of the fire wall it has one fuel line going in on top and one line going out on the bottom. to change it the battery must be removed and the rest of the information will come from your Chilton's Manuel which you should have already purchased. i recommend changing the fuel filter once every year to two years. as for the oil catch can that is made from a fuel filter, the purpose is to vent back into your system with some sort of catch to hold the oil. so yes plug it back in to your intake. make sure and drain it everytime you fuel up.
 
danielbui said:
hey you beat me to the answer.
Yeah, I usually write some long winded post to answer a simple question and end up deleting it 'cause five other people have already replied by the time I'm ready to post. :)
 
yeah but i just like to remind some people that there is a hands on info at there finger tips.
 
This might help on the fuel filter replacement http://www.plymouthlaser.com/fuel.htm

I tried the paper filter on the crankcase breather. I put in in the line from the intake to the rocker cover. It worked fine until the filter got saturated with oil. A that point the filter became a restriction. This happend long before you saw any oil in the bottom of the filter so I removed it.

Steve
 
Does anyone here use the inline type air compressor moisture filters instead?? I do, but I hope it's ok to do, :coy:

I mean, all I have to do is unscrew it and empty the tank when it gets filled with oil. I just took out the little media filter in it, so it is straight through.

I had the fuel filter type you are all discussing, but it seemed like it never looked dirty, then one day i tried to move air through it and it was clogged, so I came up with the filter from the air compressor line.

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Is this a bad idea? because I never hear anyone else here doing it! :confused:
 
I really don't think the rubber o-rings in that water seperator are designed to handle gasoline. If you ever where a latex glove and submerge it in gas you will see that it swells up like a balloon. While most o-rings are not made the same as a latex glove it's just a good example of how rubber doesn't always work well with all types of fluids.
D
 
eclipsegsxccca said:
Correct me if im wrong but I think joey was talking about using it as an oil catch can. If thats the case, I dont see any thing wrong with that.

yeah, for the oil catch can.
 
joeym4130 said:
Does anyone here use the inline type air compressor moisture filters instead?? I do, but I hope it's ok to do, :coy:

I mean, all I have to do is unscrew it and empty the tank when it gets filled with oil. I just took out the little media filter in it, so it is straight through.

I had the fuel filter type you are all discussing, but it seemed like it never looked dirty, then one day i tried to move air through it and it was clogged, so I came up with the filter from the air compressor line.

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Is this a bad idea? because I never hear anyone else here doing it! :confused:

Seems like a good idea to me, I was going to do the same as its hard to find enough spare space in a 2g to mount the larger aftermarket oil catch can such as greddy, cusco, etc.
 
daren_p said:
Seems like a good idea to me, I was going to do the same as its hard to find enough spare space in a 2g to mount the larger aftermarket oil catch can such as greddy, cusco, etc.


Relocating the battery and cruise control will free up a lot of room for a catch can/water injection. Something to consider if you have AWD.
 
hey guys heres an idea, buy an OIL Catch can from a distributor or replicate it with an aluminum can and some really big vacuum lines. put a bolt on the bottom so when its full you can drain. to see if its full put another bolt on top of the can. these ideas of paper filters are not a good idea especially the COMPRESSER TANK inline filter.
 
danielbui said:
hey guys heres an idea, buy an OIL Catch can from a distributor or replicate it with an aluminum can and some really big vacuum lines. put a bolt on the bottom so when its full you can drain. to see if its full put another bolt on top of the can. these ideas of paper filters are not a good idea especially the COMPRESSER TANK inline filter.

Please explain why you believe these aren't good ideas? Especially the tank, since thats what I did
:confused:
 
Diplomat said:
Yes. It's plumbed right back into the intake as before.
I prefer NOT to reroute mine back into the intake. Just cap the intake nipple off and run the hose straight toward the ground. Same with the PCV line. I used to have both of those lines running to a Jaz catch can, but I pulled one of the hose barbs off of it and ruined it. I now plan on eventually getting another catch can from JM Fabrications- it appears to be built a lot better.

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doug said:
I prefer NOT to reroute mine back into the intake. Just cap the intake nipple off and run the hose straight toward the ground. Same with the PCV line. I used to have both of those lines running to a Jaz catch can, but I pulled one of the hose barbs off of it and ruined it. I now plan on eventually getting another catch can from JM Fabrications- it appears to be built a lot better.

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In my area you can't run a catch can that vents to atmosphere, as that is modifying the emissions & a close to $500 ticket for doing so, & the cops do check around here, most of them are prics since everybody who drives an import is a street racer and needs to be given a hand full of tickets.

So why is the compressor water trap filter a bad idea? I can't seem to figure out why?
 

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