| Bolt-on Tech Intake, exhaust, intake manifold, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 4G63 turbocharged DSMs. |
12-14-2004, 10:15 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Apr 2004
Posts: 91
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Pulled my water pump, belts, and have a problem...also curious about seal replacement
:O
Well, pulled the timing and acc belts and waterpump to do some maint work...now we have some problems.
When we replaced the timing belt, we reused the old auto tensioner (I have a new one on the way and is on the way...cause we think this is the problem). Once we got the timing belt on correctly, we couldn't get the belt to tension properly. What could be the cause of this? hopefully it's the autotensioner.
On to the seals,
So I was on the phone with the parts guy at Mitsu, I told him what I was doing and he suggested for me to replace some seals...balance shaft, crankshaft, and another one...he said they're really easy to access since i have the car in pieces already. Is there any truth to that? Links to tutorials?
thanks in advance
other info:
-The balance shaft belt was replaced OK (hopefully it is aligned correctly).
-Ended up chipping the harmonic balancer so I bought a new, lightweight one, should fix that problem.
-The radiator is leaking, so I bought a replacement.
-Going to replace the thermostat too.
Basically, this is a project from hell :o
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12-14-2004, 10:46 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Springfield, Missouri
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2002
Posts: 656
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I wouldn't bother with the seals if the car is not high milage and they are not leaking yet. Don't reuse that auto-tensioner for chrissake. Go to the VFAQ if you have doubts on how to set the tension correctly. This is the one part you do not want to screw up. 
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104mph in the 1/8th (best) E85
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12-14-2004, 10:59 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Apr 2004
Posts: 91
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by diambo4life
I wouldn't bother with the seals if the car is not high milage and they are not leaking yet. Don't reuse that auto-tensioner for chrissake. Go to the VFAQ if you have doubts on how to set the tension correctly. This is the one part you do not want to screw up. 
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I just noticed everybody says DONT REUSE!! lol. Well, the car has a bout 155k on the clock. I have a new tensioner on the way. Hopefully that's the problem?
Any other input...thoughts, etc? Can I eliminate the balance shaft without dropping the engine?....I think the shaft might be outta line...heh
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12-15-2004, 02:27 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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From: Warren, Pennsylvania
Registered: Oct 2003
Posts: 109
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If you think your balance shafts are out of phase....
Undo the timing belt, and spin the oil pump sprocket 1/2 a turn clockwise. If it turns back to where it was it is in phase.
And yes, you can eliminate the balance shafts w/o dropping the engine, but it's still alot of work.
Good luck with that tension 
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12-15-2004, 04:35 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Region: Midwest
Registered: Nov 2003
Posts: 245
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Originally Posted by UW95GST
-Ended up chipping the harmonic balancer so I bought a new, lightweight one, should fix that problem.
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There have also been reports of problems caused by replacing the stock harmonic damper with a lightweight pulley. You may want to do a few searches and read up about that. 
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12-15-2004, 08:52 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Apr 2004
Posts: 91
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Originally Posted by Darksyne
There have also been reports of problems caused by replacing the stock harmonic damper with a lightweight pulley. You may want to do a few searches and read up about that. 
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thanks for the tip on the balance shaft alignment
as for the lightweight pulley...well, the sides of the stock pulley are thrashed (read: not present anymore  ) and I didn't want to drop $110 on it..
the reviews are mixed on this one, so I think I will do it...wish me luck :o
I'm usin' NAPA and Gates belts too...ugh. hindsight is 20/20...but I'm just gettin' my car running again, no need for anything fast or fancy....I have a bike for htat 
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12-16-2004, 09:35 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
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Let me guess. You went to pry off the damn pulley and it fell on the floor and got chipped? Happens to me nearly every time I do it. Usually they are reusable, the belts aren't gonig to come off since there are still the groves inside. The harmonic dampener isolates your bottom end from vibrations caused by the belts. Mitsu engineers put it there for a reason, think about it. Im sure you could get a used one for cheap on the trader.
Also, I disagree with everyone who says replace the tensioner. I've only ever come across one bad tensioner (Two if you count the one I accidentally broke). Just test it. It should be difficult to compress in the vice and should pop back out immediately when the force is removed. After you have dont a few, you get a feel for how much force they should have. IMO, if it aint broke... so just test it before you go throwing parts at it. Most likely you just didn't set the manual tension correctly.
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12-16-2004, 11:11 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Springfield, Missouri
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2002
Posts: 656
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Use a NEW autotensioner and use an OEM replacement for the pulley. About the tensioner - what do you prefer? "Waste" the $65 for a new one now or spend $$$ when it fails, trashes your head and maybe your block if you are very unlucky? Hmmmm... all of us are just paranoid and it has never happened to people before.  I am not one who likes taking chances with my car. That's why it's normally problem free.
Do as you wish.
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104mph in the 1/8th (best) E85
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12-16-2004, 01:53 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Apr 2004
Posts: 91
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Originally Posted by TransAmConvert
Let me guess. You went to pry off the damn pulley and it fell on the floor and got chipped? Happens to me nearly every time I do it. Usually they are reusable, the belts aren't gonig to come off since there are still the groves inside. The harmonic dampener isolates your bottom end from vibrations caused by the belts. Mitsu engineers put it there for a reason, think about it. Im sure you could get a used one for cheap on the trader.
Also, I disagree with everyone who says replace the tensioner. I've only ever come across one bad tensioner (Two if you count the one I accidentally broke). Just test it. It should be difficult to compress in the vice and should pop back out immediately when the force is removed. After you have dont a few, you get a feel for how much force they should have. IMO, if it aint broke... so just test it before you go throwing parts at it. Most likely you just didn't set the manual tension correctly.
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lol, this is actually kinda funny....
buddy was trying to pry the pulley off...BUT forgot those 4 bolts were there :o...we he was prying it wouldn't come up...figures :o
any of you know about the seals? and should I replace the bbelt tensioner pulley?
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12-16-2004, 02:02 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Warren, Pennsylvania
Registered: Oct 2003
Posts: 109
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Another helpful tip......
Be alert when you are reassembling everything. I was dead tired when I was putting my crank pulley back on, and accidentally over torqued the bolts. Let me tell you those are pretty strong bolts. The one didn't snap until 80 ft/lbs. Then I checked the specifications again and I was looking at the specs for the camshaft sprockets. :thumbdown
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12-16-2004, 02:27 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
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Seals can be hit or miss. If they are not leaking and look like they are in good shape I would leave them alone. I learned that after replacing one that looked fine 'because i was in there' and then the new one leaked and i had to redo it :thumbdown
On a side note, the only front main seals i ever saw that didn't obviously need replacing were on 2Gs. 1Gs always seem to leak there. Go figure. Whatever you decide to do keep an eye on that spot. A leaking front main can easily oil up the timing belt and cause it to fail.
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