Let the Modifying begin....

[Carbs99]

Hey everyone, I'm now the proud owner of a 98 GS-T, and am about to begin purchasing parts to upgrade my car. I've read over the entire stage one power mods list and would like to follow that route with my car. I've looked at pretty much all the different brands I could find and have read up on their products, but I would rather hear about the products from the individuals who have experience with them in their own cars. I have the money saved to get pretty much everything on the Stage one list with the exception of an upgraded turbo, and the clutch(which I don't need because I got an automatic, sorry guys) I can't afford the best of everything but by no means want to get shitty products. So I was wondering if you all would be so kind as to inform of which parts you would recommend and where are the best places to purchase them. In case you wondering whch parts, Steps 1 -11 on the stage one Power Mods list. Thanks.

 

[984G634LIFE]

K&N-the best no questions,greddy upper and lower IC pipes, Greddy type-s blow off valve, Greddy evo cat back exhaust, random technologies high flow cat, b&m fuel pressure regulator, manual boost controller or Greddy Profec B, is all i have experience with....simply because they're the best though.....

 

[Black95GSX]

You might wanna check out www.dsmreviews.com

 

[Carbs99]

Thank you.

 

[Black95GSX]

Originally posted by 984G634LIFE
K&N-the best no questions,greddy upper and lower IC pipes, Greddy type-s blow off valve, Greddy evo cat back exhaust, random technologies high flow cat, b&m fuel pressure regulator, manual boost controller or Greddy Profec B, is all i have experience with....simply because they're the best though.....

I agree... kindof.....

Best bang for your buck IMO:

K&N FPIK (pricy, but worth it)
Dave Brode UIP
1g BOV
Custom 3" exhaust (prolly spend $600 to have a shop weld in mandrel bends -- don't get press, bring the mandrel bends if they can't get them)
Manual Boost controller (or EBC if your lazy like me)

I don't know about the B&M fuel pressure regulator though, I'd suggest a fuel pump upgrade before that. Not attacking your post, but the B&M can only raise fuel pressure....... most of the fuel problems a modded dsm has is with too much fuel pressure from an upgraded fuel pump.

Most of all..... what are your ET/MPH goals for the car? (directed to original post of the thread)

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Look at the reviews site. If you want to see what I recommend check out my mods on my homepage.

 

[Black95GSX]

John... why do you keep telling people that? Your car has yet to run a time that is faster then a stock civic!... yes, even the hybrid civic.

 

[KOMPLICATED]

OK.. I'm in the same position. Although I now have some cheap **** exhaust. I think its 2.25 and then becomes 2.5 and the end. Anyways, I drive a GST too and I know TRACTION SUCKS ASS, but I want to break 12.999 on streets, (nitto 555r or the new B/F goodrich's?). Looking for the cheapest way there, although I'm not ruling out REALLY GOOD parts just caust there expensive. Another quick question, I know the GSX's can break 12's with a 16g or 14b, but I also know of GSTs with 20g's and bigger that don't hook up for **** all the way down the track. ONE OF THEM HAS A FRANK 2 and hasn't broken 12's. DRIVER? or PURELY TRACTION?

 

[AndyFL]

Stay away from cheap exhaust if you don't want to sound like a 60's vw. Greddy evo is a good choice, hks is nice but smaller diameter.

 

[Black95GSX]

Originally posted by AndyFL
Stay away from cheap exhaust if you don't want to sound like a 60's vw. Greddy evo is a good choice, hks is nice but smaller diameter.

... that is not always the case...

I Paid $500 for a TIG welded mandrel bent exhaust, I have a 36" resonator in place of the cat and a magnaflow straight through 3" muffler.

The car is just as loud as stock at idle, while crusiing you can eaisly hear a cell phone or music over the ehxuast.... it's actually very quiet at WOT untill the external opens up.


The main problem with a "cheep" exhaust is that places use crap mufflers, stay with a name brand and your fine -- no, those big oval chromed muffler's sold at import shops don't count as a named brand.


EDIT: Also, HKS and Greddy exhausts neck down -- apex is the only unit that does not neck down at the cat, inturn it has an adapter. Although new research shows that they might have a neckdown built into the muffler -- DOH!!!! check out RRE's site for pics of the greddy neck down -- as far as the HKS goes, I previously had a HKS untill I decided to get the 3" custom job I have now -- the neck down was very very obvious, and was about 3 feet long, then went to a resonator where it exited at 2.94" to the Muffler

 

[swordfish]

Its true that the Greddy and HKS catbacks neckdown at the cat. Simple solution. Cut that 2 inch section out. The Apex'i unit has a size reduction in the muggler from 3 inches to 2.5 inches. Its hard to cut that off.

jeff

 

[Carbs99]

Thank you very much to everyone who has helped me out, I now feel much safer about not purchasing #@%#@%#@%#@% that don't work.

 

[Clipse]

You may not have as big of a traction problem with an a/t, but I would still recommend getting an LSD(limited slip differential). It will help you hook up and reduce that damned wheel hop. Because trust me with a ton of mods on a Gs-t you WILL just sit and spin... eww