upgrade question

[NJC4G63]

whats up fellow dsmmers. new member here. just had a couple of qwik questions. i have a 95 gst, got it almost a year ago with 82000. now i have 95000 with just a K&N FIPK. i regularly keep up with the maintenence (oil change every 3000, bla bla bla) and want to keep on modding, but should i keep on doin it? i keep on hearing about the crankwalk scare and that it can happen at any time possible, but also heard that it wouldn't be much of an issue after 80000. is this true? i already have money saved up for a 1G BOV, UICP, N1 exhaust and a 97 conversion but just too damn afraid to dump money into somethig that will break within time. oh yeah this is a daily driver. i need some input please. lemme know guys and gals.

thanx,
chris

 

[crankbender]

If you really want to go crazy with the car you have to remember that racing breaks stuff! If you just want to do some little mods they by all means go for it. To really make power tho you are going to have to get rid of that little 25 you have under the hood, and that will be bucks.

What kind of money are we talking about here?

Upgrading the exhaust is pretty safe. If the car takes a dump you can always unbolt it and sell it or put it on your new DSM.

I currently have 5k set aside for parts alone when the new car gets here next month.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Your car can get CW at any stage of tune at any miles. Don't live in fear or CW. I don't. If it happens it happens and I get a 6-bolt. No biggie. I personally say mod the hell out of it.

Later,

 

[ProjectGSX]

Agreed. If you are scared of crankwalk, sell the car. No reason to be scared of it. Also, there is no proof that modifying the car makes it CW faster. At most, you might want to avoid modifications that would require a stiffer clutch. But you could still do a full exhaust, UIC pipe, BOV, and MBC .. that would get you a nice gain in power but won't require a stronger clutch.

 

[NJC4G63]

thanx guys. i heard of the ACT 2600 adding to the possibility of CW. i wanted to look into getting a JDM cyclone if it is possible to even fit in my car. They come stock with a 16G right. ive looked into the possibility of getting a big 28 sometime down the road. but i must first look into getting turbo support obviously. ive heard of a lot good things about it. the qwik spool up of the t25 but crazy top end. i dont want a 10 sec car but i will mos def want a car that can hold its own in the streets. so i know of the whole money issue and am willing to pay the price. i know this question has probably asked a million of times but which turbo is better for street use a big 16g or a big 28. i know i know newbie here.

thanx,
chris

 

[IPT]

If you get a JDM motor. To fit it with a FP 28 would be harder. A big 16G or small 16G would bolt right on... Most come stock with a 14B.

 

[NJC4G63]

really...well it was only a thought i had. i definitely want to keep my car a sleeper, even tho its not right now, just got a set of axis se7ens on my car. im probably gonna get a a 1g BOV from the mitsubishi graveyard whenever i get the chance and mate it to a dave brode UICP. trying to keep the initial costs down. at what stage should i even worry about a MBC. obviously know it wont be after i get an upgraded BOV, but i want to boost already.

thanx,
chris

 

[jdmawd]

yeah man the CW issues is what ultimately made me not buy a 2nd gen. its a situation that you will have to think about. you may not be able to just drop a 6bolt if your 7bolt takes a dump. (you may have car payments and other financial responsibilities) from what i understand Mitsubishi has a new bottom end that is CW proof (so they say) the cost is 1800. you may want to look into that before you start moding. the cost of a good 6bolt (complete) is around 1K a jdm should cost the same, mine did

 

[cmc]

I would just get a built 6 bolt block!!!

 

[Ludachris]

Originally posted by cmc
I would just get a built 6 bolt block!!!

and CMC is finishing up his JDM swap.... that might tell you something.