DSM Forums - Blogs - turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/ DSM tech forums for performance enthusiasts. en Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:05:48 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg DSM Forums - Blogs - turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/ My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 27 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/822-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-27.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:08:43 GMT The wiring harness is also done. I ended up adding 12 new connectors from Ladd Inc. The fuse box has 3 (1 pin DTHD, 4 pin DTP, and 31 pin HDP20), one is just for the injectors (12 pin DT), two each just inside the cabin at each fender (4 pin DTP and 31 pin HDP20), one inside the firewall for the... The wiring harness is also done. I ended up adding 12 new connectors from Ladd Inc. The fuse box has 3 (1 pin DTHD, 4 pin DTP, and 31 pin HDP20), one is just for the injectors (12 pin DT), two each just inside the cabin at each fender (4 pin DTP and 31 pin HDP20), one inside the firewall for the ecu harness (47 pin HDP20), one just for the windshield wipers (6 pin DT), and two go between the ecu and fuse box harnesses near the ecu (12 pin DT and 12 pin DT). The picture below is the harness laid out like it goes in the car, and the new connectors are circled.

Attachment 102043

There are multiple connectors at some points because I had a few large gauge wires that wouldn't fit in my main connector. I also upgraded the headlight wires to 12ga. in case I go with HID's in the future. I needed a connector for the windshield wipers because I routed it through plates I made that used to be for the cabin air intake. The clutch cut wire for dsmlink was routed along the dash harness that I did not modify, and from there goes through a factory connector to the ecu harness. I had some spare wires laying around that had the right pin on the end to fit in that connector. The knock sensor and o2 sensor wires were a little tricky to get through connectors because they have a shielding wire inside. I had to use a separate pin for the shielding wire and keep it right next to the other wires when going through the connector. A little bit of heat shrink on the shielding made sure it wasn't exposed. The fuse box uses two 4ga. wires to get power from the distribution block.

Attachment 102044

New tie rods.

Attachment 102045

Powdercoated the ecu.

Attachment 102046

Powderocated a few more parts in the engine bay and put them in. More things have been put in the engine bay since this picture, but this is pretty much how it looks.

Attachment 102047 ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/822-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-27.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 26 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/821-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-26.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:57:04 GMT Sorry for the big gap between the previous part and this one. See my thread for all that stuff. ---Quote (Originally by turbosax2)--- My battery relocation is finally complete. Parts list: JEGS 300A kill switch (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10307/10002/-1) JEGS clear anodized billet... Sorry for the big gap between the previous part and this one. See my thread for all that stuff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosax2 View Post
My battery relocation is finally complete.

Parts list:
JEGS 300A kill switch
JEGS clear anodized billet faceplate
(3) JEGS 1/2" terminal guards
Negative battery terminal
Positive battery terminal
(6) 3/8-in Stud Terminal Insulators
2/0 Red/black battery terminal insulators
Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing
Terminal Solder Slugs
Heavy-duty Tinned Copper Lugs
Tinned Copper Crimp Lugs
(2) Moroso Thru-Panel Battery Connectors
Summit Racing black battery box
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire - purchased 50ft. and used ~44ft.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire - used ~4ft.
KnuKonceptz KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System - all three 150A fuses
KnuKonceptz In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse - 200A fuse
(2) XScorpion Circuit breaker - 200A
McMaster PUSH-IN FLEXIBLE RUBBER GROMMET, MS 35489-27, AN 931-24-28, 1-1/2"ID,2-1/8"OD - P/N 9307K84
Reusing original battery for now

Tools:
Solderless Connector Crimping Tool
Liquid Flux
Cable Cutter
Rotary Cable Stripper




Attachment 102019

Attachment 102020

Attachment 102021

Attachment 102022

Attachment 102023

Attachment 102024

Attachment 102025

Attachment 102026

Attachment 102027

Attachment 102028

Attachment 102029

Attachment 102030

Attachment 102031

Attachment 102032

Attachment 102033


I don't have any good pictures of the cables in the engine bay or the fuse box cables to the distribution block right now.


The pictures pretty much sum it up but I'll make some comments. The spare tire and washer fluid bottle brackets were cut out of the trunk to make room for the battery box.

The cable I used looks to be good stuff but it is so big it is actually 2/0, not 1/0ga. This means I had a tough time finding all the lugs and parts I needed. Some lugs I got had to be crimped then soldered, others I could use the solder slug system on. The reason for this is because I always matched the bolt hole in the lug to each place it was bolting to - no "one size lug fits all" here. If you're really interested in the lugs let me know and I'll try to remember which size worked for each spot. To see the solder slug installation watch this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs

For the copper crimp lugs I couldn't use the solder slugs, so I had to crimp them using the tool listed above. After crimping I heated the lugs with a torch and shoved solder in until it was full. Both methods worked equally well IMO.

Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing is the sh*t. Nuff said. :thumb:

At first I got Taylor battery cable terminals, but my wire was too big to fit in them. Then I got 2/0 ones from McMaster that looked identical to the Taylor ones. However, they are both Universal fit and I didn't like that. So instead I bought the ones listed above that are specific to (+) and (-) terminals (which are different sizes) and I like the fit better. All 3 sets looked identical otherwise.

The circuit breakers are kind of a no-name brand. They were the best 200A ones I could find. I bought Stinger circuit breaker covers for them, and they would have fit with a little modification. However, my lugs were so big I would have had to cut out quite a bit for them to work. I liked the terminal insulators better so I used them.

The kill switch is heavy and big. Be warned, but it does look like a quality piece.

The 1/2" terminal insulators were used at the kill switch and both sides of the thru-panel connectors. The 3/8" ones were used at the circuit breakers, alternator, and starter.

One circuit breakers is mounted to the battery box. I had to use slim head flanged allen fasteners on the inside of the box to provide a full adjustment range for the battery tie down (McMaster P/N 92137A535). The other circuit breaker is bolted to a stud on the rear of the car. Only one mounting point is used. The fuse and distribution block on the firewall are mounted with heavy duty velcro. Couldn't think of a better way without putting holes in the firewall.

The little plastic things under the kick panel where the wires run had to be trimmed on the bottom because the wires are so thick. Took a minute with the Dremel.

The trunk plastic panels still fit fine, they just weren't on for the pictures.

The battery grounds on the drivers frame rail (pictured).

To get the wires to the kill switch, I used a factory hole in the rear of the car. I believe it was about 1.3" or so from the factory, and I used a hole saw to drill it out to 1.75" to use the grommet listed above. The factory wires still go through this hole along with three 2/0 wires. Drilling through this metal was kind of tricky with the hole saw because I had to start with an existing hole. I ended up grinding it out with a Dremel until it was 1.5", then I bolted my 1.75" hole saw on the drill then my 1.5" hole saw backwards to act as a guide in the hole. While drilling the metal tried to tweak because it is so thin so be careful.


I think that's way more info than any of you wanted, but ask questions if you have them.
]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/821-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-26.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 25 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/427-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-25.html Fri, 14 Nov 2008 22:47:05 GMT I've been working on the harnesses the past couple of days. First, I made these two documents to outline my plans for the harnesses.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...cu-harness.doc
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...ox-harness.doc

Then, I started removing and moving connectors on the ecu harness. The process is pretty simple; pick one wire from the connector you want to remove and trace it back to where it ends. If it is a power or ground wire, it will most likely be crimped to other power and ground wires. The factory has these crimped at many places in the harness. You really have no choice but to cut the wire off from the others. I am probably going to go back and replace all the crimps with solder joints later; the wires I cut off left some sharp wires behind and I don't want them damaging other wires. Most of the power wires end up making their way to the ecu power supply, pins 12 and 25. The grounds can either go to chassis ground or the sensor ground at the ecu, pin 92. If the wire ends at a connector, do NOT cut the wire. Remove the pin from the connector.

Here is how to remove pins from the ecu connectors:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...onnectors.html

You'll see I added a post on there because my ecu connectors are different from other 2g's I've seen; they changed the connector style some year.

Here is how to remove wires from waterproof connectors (found in engine bay):


These pins were harder for me to remove than the ecu connectors. Patience, patience, patience. Oh, and the proper tools help too :coy: Try to deal with ONE wire at a time; you will get confused less. When pulling wires through the big rubber firewall grommets BE CAREFUL!! The pins have sharp edges and you can very easily damage other wires when pulling the pins through the grommet. If you're careful you will be fine. Probably the better way to do it is to cut the pins off, but I kinda wanted to keep everything intact "just in case".


Here are the notes I've taken along the way. Most of this probably won't make too much sense but hopefully it helps people who tackle this project. I didn't take great notes on the connectors that are being deleted. This is all for the ecu harness.

Delete:
1. Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor
3 wires - ground, power, pin
11. Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator)
3 wires - all end at pins
13. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve - save one wire for alternator
2 wires - left red wire for new alternator connector, removed pin from fps connector, other wire ended in pin
14. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid
2 wires - ecu pin 6, power
16. Brake Fluid Level Switch
2 wires - pin, ground
28. Theft Alarm Horn
2 wires - pin, ground
30. Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)]
2 wires - ecu pin 11, power
35. EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve
2 wires - pin, power
36. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
3 wires - pin, green wire cut, pin (connector 32, top left)
52. Fuel Pump Check Connector - connect wires together, only delete plug
2 wires to 1 pin - cut off connector, wires go to power transistor and coil pack, must solder them together
Rear O2 Sensor
power, ecu pin 54, green loom (ground strap and ground in gray tape, ecu pin 75)

Move to interior:
7. Ignition Power Transistor
cut blue/black wire to coil pack, must lengthen wire and reconnect
32. Front Wiring Harness and Control Wiring Harness Combination **
33. ? **
51. Ignition Suppression Resistor (Fuel Injector Resistor Box)
53. Windshield Wiper Motor - run through hvac air intake hole
cut chassis ground wire (black), must reconnect

Move to fuse box harness:
12. Volume Airflow Sensor [Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS)] **
1. orange - ecu pin 85
2. green/yellow - cut from same color wire in harness, ecu pin 81
3. blue/yellow - ecu pin 90
4. red/white - ecu pin 19
5. red/blue - ecu pin 72
6. black - cut from grounds on harness, sensor ground, ecu pin 92
7. red - cut from ecu power source, pins 12/25
31. Back-up Light Switch **
2 wires - red and black, pins removed from big blue interior connector (I made myself a little diagram of the blue connector)
39. Heated Oxygen Sensor (Front O2 Sensor)
red - cut wire from ecu power source, pins 12/25
yellow - ecu pin 60
green loom still attahced to ecu harness
I made myself a diagram of the o2 connector


BTW, every instance of "52. Fuel Pump Check Connector" should actually be "52. Engine Speed Detection Connector", I just forgot to change them.


And, of course, a picture of the wires I've removed:







I will reference these diagrams in the future. The one is borrowed and modified from here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ngine-bay.html



]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/427-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-25.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 24 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/426-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-24.html Fri, 14 Nov 2008 22:43:42 GMT Quick update this time. I've finished up the blast cabinet and I've been blasting a bunch of stuff with extra fine glass beads, and I installed my Prothane mounts. I have a bunch of things at the welder's but he's had them for nearly a month now :toobad: We got ahold of an oven for powdercoating so we're hoping it works, but we probably won't get to trying it out for a couple of weeks.

Enjoy the pics :)



















]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/426-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-24.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 23 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/372-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-23.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:11:25 GMT Realistically, I'm hoping to have it running by next summer. I'm a college student and I'm in the marching band, so I can only get home to work on it some weekends. Plus, my friend and I still need to finish the blast cabinet. Plus, I need to save up money to replace the front knuckles, axles, abs sensors, tie rods, and lower control arms. It sucks, but I've accepted that I won't get to drive it for awhile. :toobad:

Don't worry though, I'll keep taking pictures and hopefully within the next couple months I can throw the engine back together and maybe get some wallpaper quality pictures LOL


I guess I'll throw up a rough to-do list:

Have some more things welded
Finish blasting and powdercoating parts
Minor porting and more polishing on turbo
Reassemble turbo
Take care of minor rust on chassis and repaint spots
Paint brake / fuel lines on firewall
Cover up unused holes on firewall
Redo underlining in fender wells
Clean rust off block
Clean lifters and replace cam seals
Reassemble engine (no timing belt on) / flywheel, clutch, manifolds, turbo, etc.
Do some of the wiring with engine on stand
Mate engine with transmission and put only them back in car
More wiring (no wire loom yet, kept open to troubleshoot)
Either pull engine to finish it up and install timing belt, or just do it with engine in car
Modify downpipe/catback and install vband clamp between them
Put rest of stuff in engine bay, fill fluids, start car
Once I confirm all the wiring is good, then I'll pull it out, wire loom it, and reinstall
Save up and buy all suspension stuff, install that
Put interior and body panels back in
Drive car

And I'm hoping that I can afford to relocate the battery and get a Jay Racing alternator relocation kit for a Saturn alternator before I put the engine back in the car. This is convenient to do with the engine out of the car and while I have all the wiring apart. When I relocate the battery I will also rewire the stock fuel pump and install a kill switch. I would also like to get a few gauges (oil pressure, temp, and water temp) so I can do all the wiring now, but I doubt that will happen.







List of stuff to do before engine can be assembled:

Stuff to weld:
Oil pan (return line fitting / oil temp sender 1/8 NPT bung)
O2 housing studs
Throttle body
Turbine crack
(Also delete intake pipe nipples)

Stuff to blast with glass beads:
Main motor mount / trans mount
Water pump (or buy new one)
CAS
Fuel rail
Thermostat housings
Power steering pump
Throttle body elbow / tb / intake manifold
Compressor housing
Oil filter housing
Transmission
Alternator case (or get Saturn alternator)

Stuff to blast then powdercoat (not all of this needs done to assemble engine):
Shift cable levers
Redo cam gears
Redo radiator mounts
Redo timing tins
Oil pan
Some random plate from engine bay
Water pump and power steering pulleys
Some stuff from interior
P/S reservoir
Suspension stuff eventually


Then finish up turbo, I have to touch up the porting on the intake manifold and finish cleaning it with B-12, clean the rust off the block, check to make sure exhaust and intake ports are as clean as they can get, tap a bunch of threads on head, block, and parts, buy oodles of SS hardware, and bug Tyler to get me the tool to put the balance shaft bearings back in. I think that's it. Then we assemble. ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/372-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-23.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 22 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/371-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-22.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:10:05 GMT Forgot to post a picture of the new ECLIPSE logo. Looks a million times better. Old: Image: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachments/hangout/86906d1220241478-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log-img_4374.jpg New: Image:... Forgot to post a picture of the new ECLIPSE logo. Looks a million times better.

Old:


New:


Polished my t25, no porting, just polished. I am going to port the outlet to match my Megan Racing o2 housing, then polish that and the sealing ring too. I found a crack in the wastegate opening that goes the whole way through the housing so I'll have to get that welded. It was interesting to compare my turbine housing to my friend's housing. They both have several cracks in almost identical spots.









That's it for this weekend. Most of my time was spent working on the blast cabinet.

Still looking for a good way to block the holes in my firewall. Shout out ideas if you have 'em! ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/371-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-22.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 21 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/370-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-21.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:08:13 GMT Not too much to update today. I took all 4 mud flaps off. Underneath one of the rear flaps, it looks like it rubbed against the bumper so some paint was worn off I'll have to get some touch up paint to take care of it. I polished my hood prop and my brother's too, turned out pretty good. I didn't go for a mirror finish, just polished a little so it looks kinda shiny. I tested them before and they're SS so they won't rust. Put the new hatch struts on. Found a few more bolts and such I want to order from Mitsu. I'm going to put the ECLIPSE logo back on tonight. I think I found a good solution for the rear carpet, just need to get some material. That's it.


Can anybody think of a clean way to block the holes in my firewall? I need to close the holes that were used for the heater hoses, a/c lines, a/c drain vent etc. Ideally I would weld them shut but that's not an option. What do you guys think?






The only thing I did this weekend was shave my 1g throttle body. It needs welded and blasted, then I can rebuild it. I lightly polished it to check for major imperfections.












I didn't get to do anything else because my friend and I started building a blast cabinet. We're not done yet but here is a teaser shot.

]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/370-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-21.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 20 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/369-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-20.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:03:59 GMT Nine and a half hours of work to coat all these. HUGE THANKS to Kevin (ubpiped) and his wife for helping me powdercoat these. I was there all day and Kevin devoted his whole day off work to doing this for me. What a guy! The pieces didn't turn out quite "professional quality" but I love how they look and I'm totally pleased with the results. Kevin really knows what he's doing :thumb: I expected to powderocat parts yesterday until I ran out of powder. Huge shock to me that I returned home with over half my powder left. I am simply stunned at how many parts you can coat with such little powder.

We only ran into a few problems. On the timing belt tins, the powder bubbled up a little in a few places. Not a big deal and the bubbles are in hidden spots so I'm going with it. The cam gears also had a problem. We put the cam gears and the wastegate actuator in the oven at the same time. The wastegate turned out fine but the cam gears had oil all over them WTF and there was oil on the bottom of the oven. There was no oil on the top of the oven that could have dripped down. The powder on the cam gears got ruined so I'll have to strip them and try again. We are stumped on why this happened though. The only thing I could come up with is that they are made of a weird metal that needs special powdercoating considerations? Anybody have a clue?


It's probably hard to tell in the pictures, but in person you really can tell the difference between different shades of black.


Solar Black Flat 2-4% Gloss
Cam gears
Timing belt tins
Wastegate actuator




Satin Black 55 - 60% Gloss
Bumper mount
Bumper mount bracket
Battery tie down
Brake resevoir bracket
Clutch resevoir bracket
Alternator bracket
Transmission lower mount
Dipstick tube
Rear engine motor mount bracket
Front engine motor mount bracket
Power steering pump bracket
Motor hoist mount
Radiator mounts
Motor mount bracket
Hood prop bracket





Matte Black 15 - 25% Gloss
Wiper arms
Flywheel dust shield
Starter plate
Bumper brackets
Clutch line bracket
Overflow bottle bracket
Horn bracket
Assorted brackets




Mirror Black 95+% Gloss
Fuel filter brackets




Pewter Metallic
Main water pipe
Coolant lines




Silver Metallic
Motor hoist
This was a test piece, it won't be going back on the car. I just used it to test out the 2 silver colors I got to determine which I wanted to use on the water pipe and coolant lines. I love this color but it was a little too bling for a water pipe. The pewter metallic looks exactly how I think a new water pipe would look :)

]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/369-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-20.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 19 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/368-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-19.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:00:57 GMT I removed the Mitsubishi, GSX, and ECLIPSE logos from the back of the car. For the Mitsubishi and GSX I used a heat gun (very lightly heating it) and a fingernail. The ECLIPSE required more heat and I used a credit card to scrape the letters off. I marked the position of the logo so I can put... I removed the Mitsubishi, GSX, and ECLIPSE logos from the back of the car. For the Mitsubishi and GSX I used a heat gun (very lightly heating it) and a fingernail. The ECLIPSE required more heat and I used a credit card to scrape the letters off. I marked the position of the logo so I can put the new logo on in the same spot (the chrome was cracking on the old one). The Mitsubishi and GSX will be staying off.



]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/368-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-19.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 18 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/367-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-18.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 02:00:07 GMT The interior is done. I put all the panels back in except for the middle one in the trunk. My hatch didn't pop open the first time I opened it today so I adjusted the tab that holds the spring. I left the panel off for further adjustment if needed. Because I got rid of the black hunk of metal behind the rear seats I lost 2 mounting points for the rear carpet. I'll figure something out so it all looks clean - stay tuned. My carpet was all torn up when I bought the car so I made my own carpet out of black material. It looked pretty good so maybe I'll do black again, or stick with gray, I dunno yet. Ignore the marks on the trunk floor; I have no idea what that is from WTF The leather seats were cleaned before I put them back in. This is about it for the interior for now; the rest of the parts will wait until the car is rewired.



















]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/367-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-18.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 17 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/366-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-17.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:57:02 GMT I went over all of the places that had sound deadening and made sure I got every speck of it off with the putty knife. Then I hit the spots several times with Goo Gone to make sure they were clean as can be. Then I vacuumed the whole interior and washed it all with a Simple Green solution. This... I went over all of the places that had sound deadening and made sure I got every speck of it off with the putty knife. Then I hit the spots several times with Goo Gone to make sure they were clean as can be. Then I vacuumed the whole interior and washed it all with a Simple Green solution. This was left overnight to fully dry. I put the gas pedal back in the car. I removed all the rubber plugs from the floor and cleaned them with Armor All. I put a rubber grommet in the hole the rear o2 sensor used to come through so nothing can get in the cabin through that hole. I routed the 2nd antenna’s wire along the stock amp wires so you can’t see it. Some cables and wires are held down by sticky foam pads from the factory. These wear out and don’t stick well anymore, so I replaced the bad ones with adhesive backed foam that looks very similar to the stock foam pads. I unscrewed the two metal plates under the back seats and cleaned under them. I cleaned out the hatch drain tubes by tying a piece of wire to a cleaner for a saxophone mouthpiece covered in soap and pulling it through the tubes several times. They weren't clogged but a lot of junk came out. Everything plastic was cleaned with Armor All. And I vacuumed it once again.

The final product:























I'm very proud of how this turned out. Too bad it'll never be seen :rolleyes:



I got about one third of the way putting all the plastic panels back in (which have all been cleaned with Armor All, even the backsides), but then a storm came and I had to pack it in for the night. To be continued... ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/366-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-17.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 16 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/365-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-16.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:54:35 GMT Since I deleted the winshield washer fluid reservoir, I still wanted to keep the top of the fill tube so I didn't have a hole in the hatch. Now, there is no problem just putting that piece back in as is, but I wanted to make sure that in case someone ever tried to put fluid down there, I wouldn't have to rip apart my interior again to clean up the mess. I used the cap off a small jelly jar (like the kind at a diner) to cap off the tube. Then, I used clear RTV silicone to seal the gap and to seal off the smaller hole in the fill tube. I filled it up with water and no leaks! A zip tie was used to hold the tube in place so it didn't move around and rattle - the silicone also keeps the metal cap from rattling against the body. This and the antenna were somewhat ghetto rigged, but I felt that the approaches I took were the best to keep it lightweight, dummy proof, and looking good.







]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/365-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-16.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 15 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/364-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-15.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:52:57 GMT The sound deadening on the backside of the rear wheel wells was another PITA part. I used a heat gun and putty knife to scrape it off, but a lot of yellow glue was left behind. Goo Gone and Goof Off did nearly nothing to get this stuff off, so I resorted to using a plastic scraper to scrape it... The sound deadening on the backside of the rear wheel wells was another PITA part. I used a heat gun and putty knife to scrape it off, but a lot of yellow glue was left behind. Goo Gone and Goof Off did nearly nothing to get this stuff off, so I resorted to using a plastic scraper to scrape it off. It came off very slowly but cleaned up extremely well.








I did the azdave trunk mod. It worked great - highly recommended if you have problems opening the hatch. I also have new hatch struts to replace my crappy ones, didn't get to that yet.





My car has 2 antennas from the factory - the main one on the body and one in the rear window. I hate the main antenna. I hate how it looks and I hate how it's constantly going up and down, up and down, up and down. When and if I ever do body work to this car the antenna hole will be shaved, but for right now that isn't an option. So I had some choices at this point.
1. Delete the whole antenna assembly and plug the hole with some rubber grommet thing. Not a bad choice but I really didn't like how it would turn out looking.
2. Leave the antenna assembly bolted in but disconnect the wires so it doesn't do anything. At least I don't have a big hole to deal with but that's weight sitting in the car doing nothing.
3. Remove all of the antenna assembly except for the part that sticks out. Winner! This way I get rid of most of the weight but it looks like the antenna is still there.

To remove the antenna I used a screwdriver and hammer to loosen the chrome nut from outside the car. I was concerned I would slip and scratch the body but the way I held the screwdriver it would have impaled my hand before it touched the body. There is a special tool for this but the screwdriver way is very easy. Then, I unbolted the assembly from the car. It's kind of hard to explain so see the pictures for how I modified the assembly to leave just a small portion sticking out. JB weld was used to keep the antenna together and to weatherproof the assembly. I had to use 2 washers to shim the antenna up to make it snug against the body.











]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/364-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-15.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 14 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/363-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-14.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:45:06 GMT Blasted more parts tonight. This all took about 4 hours including the time waiting for the compressor to cool down. Image: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachments/hangout/86088d1218167404-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log-img_6301.jpg Image:... Blasted more parts tonight. This all took about 4 hours including the time waiting for the compressor to cool down.












I really should change the title...I initially started the thread to highlight the relocation because of the people who have done this before, only a few of them have documented it. Although all of my project was planned out from the beginning, everything else I'm doing has been done a million times before so I didn't plan on documenting it. Plus at first I didn't realize that I really should have the engine back in the car to do most of the wiring.

I will powdercoat almost all of the parts pictured. The only ones not being powderocated are the lower heat shield (painted high temp black), the long coolant line that runs along the block (painted with the same paint I used on the block so it blends in), and the transfer case (not pictured) will be painted. The transfer case is part aluminum and part steel, so I could just paint the steel part and leave the aluminum part with a bead blasted finish but I think that would look funny, so I'm leaning towards painting it with some high temp black paint. I haven't decided on what shade of black I want yet. Or I could paint it with Aluma Blast. And after thinking about all this I can't help remind myself that the transfer case will never be seen LOL Powdercoating should happen next Friday since that is when my friend has some free time. I didn't order enough powder to do all my parts since I wanted to make sure I like the colors I picked and to get a feel for how much powder gets used to coat the parts. So I will do as many parts as I can on Friday, then I will have order more powder. No fancy colors here by the way, mostly shades of black with a couple pieces in silver. The point of powdercoating for me isn't to make parts stand out - it's to make them have a clean, fresh look, having parts match colors where I want, all while having a durable and easy to clean finish. I also have a valve cover powdercoated gloss black with polished letters from TRG. I didn't trust myself to coat the single most prominent piece in the engine bay so I left that to the pros. If I mess up a little on the parts I'm doing, they won't stick out nearly as much as a messed up valve cover would. I'm debating whether to have my crossmember powdercoated or not. I can't do it myself because it's so big.

Hopefully next week I will get to blast my other parts with the extra fine glass beads. It's supposed to give them a satin finish - I can't wait to see how they turn out :cool: ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/363-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-14.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 13 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/362-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-13.html Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:43:01 GMT Because I got rid of the heater and FIAV I had to modify the water pipe and thermostat housing. For the thermostat housing, I used a hammer and a screwdriver to smash the nipple up on the inside of the housing. I used vice grips to rotate the nipple in the hole so I could smash it up all around,... Because I got rid of the heater and FIAV I had to modify the water pipe and thermostat housing. For the thermostat housing, I used a hammer and a screwdriver to smash the nipple up on the inside of the housing. I used vice grips to rotate the nipple in the hole so I could smash it up all around, then I was able to rip it out in 1 piece. The welder had to turn an aluminum rod to make a little insert to weld in there so it wouldn't warp the gasket surface. Then he grinded it down to make it look nice. I cut the little tube off the water pipe and cleaned up the surface. The welder patched this hole up with no insert. He had some issues because of the brazing material or whatever that was left on there but he got it straightened out and grinded it down too. I also cut some unneeded metal off of the coolant overflow bottle bracket, brake fluid reservoir bracket, and the bracket the clutch line attaches to.

Why didn't I cap off the coolant nipples/lines with rubber caps?
1. Welding looks cleaner.
2. I had a rubber cap (that was specially made for capping coolant lines) burst open on my brother's car and sprayed the whole engine bay with coolant - not fun. Welding doesn't leak.















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