My battery relocation is finally complete.
JEGS 300A kill switch
JEGS clear anodized billet faceplate
(3) JEGS 1/2" terminal guards
Negative battery terminal
Positive battery terminal
(6) 3/8-in Stud Terminal Insulators
2/0 Red/black battery terminal insulators
Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing
Terminal Solder Slugs
Heavy-duty Tinned Copper Lugs
Tinned Copper Crimp Lugs
(2) Moroso Thru-Panel Battery Connectors
Summit Racing black battery box
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire
- purchased 50ft. and used ~44ft.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire
- used ~4ft.
KnuKonceptz KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System
- all three 150A fuses
KnuKonceptz In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse
- 200A fuse
(2) XScorpion Circuit breaker
McMaster PUSH-IN FLEXIBLE RUBBER GROMMET, MS 35489-27, AN 931-24-28, 1-1/2"ID,2-1/8"OD
- P/N 9307K84
Reusing original battery for now
Solderless Connector Crimping Tool
Rotary Cable Stripper
I don't have any good pictures of the cables in the engine bay or the fuse box cables to the distribution block right now.
The pictures pretty much sum it up but I'll make some comments. The spare tire and washer fluid bottle brackets were cut out of the trunk to make room for the battery box.
The cable I used looks to be good stuff but it is so big it is actually 2/0, not 1/0ga. This means I had a tough time finding all the lugs and parts I needed. Some lugs I got had to be crimped then soldered, others I could use the solder slug system on. The reason for this is because I always matched the bolt hole in the lug to each place it was bolting to - no "one size lug fits all" here. If you're really interested in the lugs let me know and I'll try to remember which size worked for each spot. To see the solder slug installation watch this video:
For the copper crimp lugs I couldn't use the solder slugs, so I had to crimp them using the tool listed above. After crimping I heated the lugs with a torch and shoved solder in until it was full. Both methods worked equally well IMO.
Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing is the sh*t. Nuff said.
At first I got Taylor battery cable terminals
, but my wire was too big to fit in them. Then I got 2/0 ones from McMaster that looked identical to the Taylor ones. However, they are both Universal fit and I didn't like that. So instead I bought the ones listed above that are specific to (+) and (-) terminals (which are different sizes) and I like the fit better. All 3 sets looked identical otherwise.
The circuit breakers are kind of a no-name brand. They were the best 200A ones I could find. I bought Stinger circuit breaker covers for them, and they would have fit with a little modification. However, my lugs were so big I would have had to cut out quite a bit for them to work. I liked the terminal insulators better so I used them.
The kill switch is heavy and big. Be warned, but it does look like a quality piece.
The 1/2" terminal insulators were used at the kill switch and both sides of the thru-panel connectors. The 3/8" ones were used at the circuit breakers, alternator, and starter.
One circuit breakers is mounted to the battery box. I had to use slim head flanged allen fasteners on the inside of the box to provide a full adjustment range for the battery tie down (McMaster P/N 92137A535). The other circuit breaker is bolted to a stud on the rear of the car. Only one mounting point is used. The fuse and distribution block on the firewall are mounted with heavy duty velcro. Couldn't think of a better way without putting holes in the firewall.
The little plastic things under the kick panel where the wires run had to be trimmed on the bottom because the wires are so thick. Took a minute with the Dremel.
The trunk plastic panels still fit fine, they just weren't on for the pictures.
The battery grounds on the drivers frame rail (pictured).
To get the wires to the kill switch, I used a factory hole in the rear of the car. I believe it was about 1.3" or so from the factory, and I used a hole saw to drill it out to 1.75" to use the grommet listed above. The factory wires still go through this hole along with three 2/0 wires. Drilling through this metal was kind of tricky with the hole saw because I had to start with an existing hole. I ended up grinding it out with a Dremel until it was 1.5", then I bolted my 1.75" hole saw on the drill then my 1.5" hole saw backwards to act as a guide in the hole. While drilling the metal tried to tweak because it is so thin so be careful.
I think that's way more info than any of you wanted, but ask questions if you have them.