turbosax2

The wiring harness is also done. I ended up adding 12 new connectors from Ladd Inc. The fuse box has 3 (1 pin DTHD, 4 pin DTP, and 31 pin HDP20), one is just for the injectors (12 pin DT), two each just inside the cabin at each fender (4 pin DTP and 31 pin HDP20), one inside the firewall for the ecu harness (47 pin HDP20), one just for the windshield wipers (6 pin DT), and two go between the ecu...

Sorry for the big gap between the previous part and this one. See my thread for all that stuff.


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I've been working on the harnesses the past couple of days. First, I made these two documents to outline my plans for the harnesses.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...cu-harness.doc
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...ox-harness.doc
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Quick update this time. I've finished up the blast cabinet and I've been blasting a bunch of stuff with extra fine glass beads, and I installed my Prothane mounts. I have a bunch of things at the welder's but he's had them for nearly a month now We got ahold of an oven for powdercoating so we're hoping it works, but we probably won't get to trying it out for a couple of weeks.
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Realistically, I'm hoping to have it running by next summer. I'm a college student and I'm in the marching band, so I can only get home to work on it some weekends. Plus, my friend and I still need to finish the blast cabinet. Plus, I need to save up money to replace the front knuckles, axles, abs sensors, tie rods, and lower control arms. It sucks, but I've accepted that I won't get to drive...

Forgot to post a picture of the new ECLIPSE logo. Looks a million times better.

Old:


New:

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Not too much to update today. I took all 4 mud flaps off. Underneath one of the rear flaps, it looks like it rubbed against the bumper so some paint was worn off I'll have to get some touch up paint to take care of it. I polished my hood prop and my brother's too, turned out pretty good. I didn't go for a mirror finish, just polished a little so it looks kinda shiny. I tested them before and they're...

Nine and a half hours of work to coat all these. HUGE THANKS to Kevin (ubpiped) and his wife for helping me powdercoat these. I was there all day and Kevin devoted his whole day off work to doing this for me. What a guy! The pieces didn't turn out quite "professional quality" but I love how they look and I'm totally pleased with the results. Kevin really knows what he's doing I expected...

I removed the Mitsubishi, GSX, and ECLIPSE logos from the back of the car. For the Mitsubishi and GSX I used a heat gun (very lightly heating it) and a fingernail. The ECLIPSE required more heat and I used a credit card to scrape the letters off. I marked the position of the logo so I can put the new logo on in the same spot (the chrome was cracking on the old one). The Mitsubishi and GSX will...

The interior is done. I put all the panels back in except for the middle one in the trunk. My hatch didn't pop open the first time I opened it today so I adjusted the tab that holds the spring. I left the panel off for further adjustment if needed. Because I got rid of the black hunk of metal behind the rear seats I lost 2 mounting points for the rear carpet. I'll figure something out so it all...

I went over all of the places that had sound deadening and made sure I got every speck of it off with the putty knife. Then I hit the spots several times with Goo Gone to make sure they were clean as can be. Then I vacuumed the whole interior and washed it all with a Simple Green solution. This was left overnight to fully dry. I put the gas pedal back in the car. I removed all the rubber plugs...

Since I deleted the winshield washer fluid reservoir, I still wanted to keep the top of the fill tube so I didn't have a hole in the hatch. Now, there is no problem just putting that piece back in as is, but I wanted to make sure that in case someone ever tried to put fluid down there, I wouldn't have to rip apart my interior again to clean up the mess. I used the cap off a small jelly jar (like...

The sound deadening on the backside of the rear wheel wells was another PITA part. I used a heat gun and putty knife to scrape it off, but a lot of yellow glue was left behind. Goo Gone and Goof Off did nearly nothing to get this stuff off, so I resorted to using a plastic scraper to scrape it off. It came off very slowly but cleaned up extremely well.

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Blasted more parts tonight. This all took about 4 hours including the time waiting for the compressor to cool down.



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Because I got rid of the heater and FIAV I had to modify the water pipe and thermostat housing. For the thermostat housing, I used a hammer and a screwdriver to smash the nipple up on the inside of the housing. I used vice grips to rotate the nipple in the hole so I could smash it up all around, then I was able to rip it out in 1 piece. The welder had to turn an aluminum rod to make a little insert...

Today I removed the sound deadening beneath the rear seats, next to the rear speakers, and some on the firewall and on the rear wheel wells. I called local places that sell dry ice but all of them close before I get off work so it's impossible for me to get my hands on dry ice this week. Ok...I have some canned air at home, right? Nope, and those things are hella expensive so I didn't feel like...

Today I steam cleaned the carpet 2 more times until the water coming off had very little dirt in it. I tucked some of the wiring in the interior (rear speakers, winshield washer fluid resevoir wiring, etc.) to get it out of the way and look a little cleaner. Then I went and blasted some parts with extra fine coal slag to prep them for powdercoating. You can read about my experience here.
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A bunch of other stuff came out of the interior then. Backseats, all plastic panels, everything in trunk, spare, jack, carpet, seat belts etc. Things that are staying out: rear speakers, windshield washer fluid reservoir and all tubing, big black hunk'o metal behind rear seats (I lose 2 mounting points for the rear carpet and 2 mounting points for the plastic panels there but it should be fine without...

My parents left on vacation yesterday for a week, so I deemed this week as "interior week". Since they're gone I can have the car in the driveway without getting yelled at, and I can store all my parts in the house without them getting in the way.


First, I removed the stock amp from the car, then the carpet came out. I took off the padding from the bottom of the carpet, then...

The wiring has been put on hold for awhile. I figure I need the engine assembled to do some of the wiring, then I'll have to have the engine back in the car to do the majority of the wiring. Progress has still been slow since cleaning parts takes me forever. I'm happy to say that every part is now thoroughly cleaned and ready to blast My hookup with a blast cabinet keeps backing out on me so...

My brother and I took a trip to JNZ today to pick up my Mitsu order. OEM parts rock






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Not much to update on. I put the wiring on hold to work on some other things. The past few days I've worked I have been cleaning parts to prep them for media blasting and powdercoating. Cleaning parts is fun...not.

Anyway, here are some more pictures for your viewing pleasure.

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I finished removing all the tape and loom from the ecu harness.

Tips:
Wear gloves - it gets sticky.
DO NOT mess with the thick green covers on some of the wires. Inside is braided wire that acts as shielding for the wire. Leave it alone.
DO NOT mess with the spots taped in gray. Wires are connected under there, so leave it be.
Make sure everything stays...

Ask and ye shall receive. Thanks for the good suggestion, Grant!

The mat was really easy to remove. I basically just started ripping and pulling at it and it tore off easily. Until I got to the section of it near the brake booster. A piece got wedged in around the brake booster and wouldn't come out - it didn't help that my fingers couldn't fit in to grab it either. I ended up...

Step 1: remove engine - check

Step 2: identify all connectors - check
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...nnections.html
Brian is on vacation now but will finish that up when he returns.

Step 3: remove dash - check
I took a bunch of pictures of the removal so I will be making a tech article...

With the engine bay empty, I turned my attention to the interior. Time to remove the dash and all the heating and a/c components.



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This thread is going to be for my summer project. My goal is to do maintenance, cleaning, and a few upgrades. The highlight of my project is relocating the fuse box to the interior and rewiring the engine bay. To this point the most technical thing I had done to a car is change a clutch, so I'm still a noob. Most of this is brand new to me and I'm still learning. Tearing down the engine was a...