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Blog Title: housegsx

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Evo Brembo Rear Brakes - cont'd (Pad install)

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Posted 09-15-2009 at 04:59 PM by housegsx
Updated 09-15-2009 at 06:49 PM by housegsx

The pads just came in! Here's a quick how to on installing them:

This is a diagram of the rear Evo brakes. I posted this picture so you can see how the shims should be installed. As you can tell, the wider part of the shim is the leading edge. The arrows on the shim point in the direction of rotation.


On the right is a stock Brembo pad. You can see it has a built in shim adhered to the pad. The aftermarket pad does not. (The don't have audible wear indicators either) Hopefully that extra built in shim is not important.


I spread some CRC brake quiet on the back of the shims.


Shims installed


Here I spread some anti-seize on the pad guides of the calipers.


More anti-seize on the side of the pad backing plates and on the shims where the piston makes contact.


Pad orientation


Drop the inside pad in and slide the top pin through to hold it.


Drop the outboard pad in and slide the top pin the rest of the way.


Spread some more grease or anti-seize on the spring where it will contact the top of the pad.


Turn the spring over and dab a little more on top of the spring where the pins ride.


Slide the spring underneath the top pin.


Slide the bottom pin in while pressing down on the spring. Make sure both pins are tapped in completely.



I'm still waiting on the lines and proportioning valve to show up so I can get this finished up. Once I get everything I will have updates.


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Comments

  1. Old Comment
    viprez586's Avatar
    That 3M copper anti seize gets everywhere!
    Great stuff though. Helps removing O2 sensors, studs, or anything for that matter.
    I use it on my shims too, and it killed my brake squeal problem.
    permalink
    Posted 09-15-2009 at 08:33 PM by viprez586 viprez586 is offline
  2. Old Comment
    spartan69x's Avatar
    how much did this cost you total, and what rotors do you use, evo or eclipse? seriously thinking on this one now lol my 2g gsx needs a brake upgrade
    permalink
    Posted 09-15-2009 at 09:09 PM by spartan69x spartan69x is offline
  3. Old Comment
    housegsx's Avatar
    Yeah anti-seize is messy stuff. I try using thin coats of it if possible.

    Spartan, you can pick up rear Evo calipers for about $200. Mine came with pads, but I wanted new ones so those were about $70. I think the SS Evo lines I ordered were $62, but you can use DSM lines if you want as long as you use a copper crush washer on the fitting. I prefer the banjo bolt fittings so decided to use Evo lines. Rotor prices are all over the place. I paid $200 for mine but you can pay a lot more or a lot less depending on what you want.
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 05:24 AM by housegsx housegsx is offline
  4. Old Comment
    pearl4gtsi's Avatar
    I would love to do this upgrade, both front and back. but i have a 1ga. do u know if it will fit, or if possible to make it fit? i have alot of stuff at work to fabricate whatever i would need. also, what about the e-brake cables? do they work with these rear calipers?
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 09:32 AM by pearl4gtsi pearl4gtsi is offline
  5. Old Comment
    housegsx's Avatar
    I'm not sure if the calipers and rotors are a direct bolt on for a 1g, but yes you would lose your parking brake. 2g's have the same parking brake design as the Evos.
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 09:49 AM by housegsx housegsx is offline
  6. Old Comment
    Morpherex's Avatar
    You could probably keep the parking brake if you had some custom lines lines made..
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 10:17 AM by Morpherex Morpherex is online now
  7. Old Comment
    housegsx's Avatar
    ^How? The 2g uses a drum-in-disc style parking brake. You'd have to retrofit that style or use a secondary cable operated parking brake caliper.
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 11:11 AM by housegsx housegsx is offline
  8. Old Comment
    viprez586's Avatar
    True, you don't want to gob it on or it'll get places where you don't want it. I found spraying PB blaster into the can, and stirring it helps thin it out. Be careful and go a little at a time though cause you don't want it like water lol.
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 06:16 PM by viprez586 viprez586 is offline
  9. Old Comment
    Morpherex's Avatar
    I wasnt thinking right Haha.. My bad. Anybody know what type of calipers the GTO uses in japan? They had beefy rears aswell as fronts.
    permalink
    Posted 09-16-2009 at 08:04 PM by Morpherex Morpherex is online now
  10. Old Comment
    Scott McIntyre's Avatar
    When that anti-seize get's hot, it'll run down into the caliper and could potentially get on the pad / rotor surface causing a safety issue.

    It may not be a problem for casual street driving as the rear brakes don't get that hot. But I'd be concerned if you track the car at all.

    Just something to consider.
    permalink
    Posted 10-06-2009 at 12:32 PM by Scott McIntyre Scott McIntyre is offline
  11. Old Comment
    housegsx's Avatar
    It's actually about 75% red high temp grease with 25% anti-seize mixed in. Do you think just grease would be better? I figured most of it'll wash off anyways.

    Also, the car does not get tracked unfortunately. No money, autocross is the most it sees.

    I do appreciate the insight.
    permalink
    Posted 10-07-2009 at 05:37 AM by housegsx housegsx is offline
  12. Old Comment
    Scott McIntyre's Avatar
    Personally, I'd err on the side of caution and completely remove any traces of grease / anti-seize on the spring as it's directly over the rotor & pad surface.

    The pad backing plates might be OK (as per the service manual), but if the pads got hot enough I could imagine that grease / anti-seize finding its way to the rotor & pad surface as well. Just something to keep an eye on.
    permalink
    Posted 10-07-2009 at 05:56 AM by Scott McIntyre Scott McIntyre is offline
 
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