Blog Title: housegsx
Evo Brembo Rear Brakes - cont'd (Pad install)
The pads just came in! Here's a quick how to on installing them:
This is a diagram of the rear Evo brakes. I posted this picture so you can see how the shims should be installed. As you can tell, the wider part of the shim is the leading edge. The arrows on the shim point in the direction of rotation.

On the right is a stock Brembo pad. You can see it has a built in shim adhered to the pad. The aftermarket pad does not. (The don't have audible wear indicators either) Hopefully that extra built in shim is not important.

I spread some CRC brake quiet on the back of the shims.

Shims installed

Here I spread some anti-seize on the pad guides of the calipers.

More anti-seize on the side of the pad backing plates and on the shims where the piston makes contact.

Pad orientation

Drop the inside pad in and slide the top pin through to hold it.

Drop the outboard pad in and slide the top pin the rest of the way.

Spread some more grease or anti-seize on the spring where it will contact the top of the pad.

Turn the spring over and dab a little more on top of the spring where the pins ride.

Slide the spring underneath the top pin.

Slide the bottom pin in while pressing down on the spring. Make sure both pins are tapped in completely.

I'm still waiting on the lines and proportioning valve to show up so I can get this finished up. Once I get everything I will have updates.
This is a diagram of the rear Evo brakes. I posted this picture so you can see how the shims should be installed. As you can tell, the wider part of the shim is the leading edge. The arrows on the shim point in the direction of rotation.

On the right is a stock Brembo pad. You can see it has a built in shim adhered to the pad. The aftermarket pad does not. (The don't have audible wear indicators either) Hopefully that extra built in shim is not important.

I spread some CRC brake quiet on the back of the shims.

Shims installed

Here I spread some anti-seize on the pad guides of the calipers.

More anti-seize on the side of the pad backing plates and on the shims where the piston makes contact.

Pad orientation

Drop the inside pad in and slide the top pin through to hold it.

Drop the outboard pad in and slide the top pin the rest of the way.

Spread some more grease or anti-seize on the spring where it will contact the top of the pad.

Turn the spring over and dab a little more on top of the spring where the pins ride.

Slide the spring underneath the top pin.

Slide the bottom pin in while pressing down on the spring. Make sure both pins are tapped in completely.

I'm still waiting on the lines and proportioning valve to show up so I can get this finished up. Once I get everything I will have updates.
Total Comments 12
Comments
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Posted 09-15-2009 at 08:33 PM by viprez586
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Posted 09-15-2009 at 09:09 PM by spartan69x
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Yeah anti-seize is messy stuff. I try using thin coats of it if possible.
Spartan, you can pick up rear Evo calipers for about $200. Mine came with pads, but I wanted new ones so those were about $70. I think the SS Evo lines I ordered were $62, but you can use DSM lines if you want as long as you use a copper crush washer on the fitting. I prefer the banjo bolt fittings so decided to use Evo lines. Rotor prices are all over the place. I paid $200 for mine but you can pay a lot more or a lot less depending on what you want.Posted 09-16-2009 at 05:24 AM by housegsx
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 09:32 AM by pearl4gtsi
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 09:49 AM by housegsx
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 10:17 AM by Morpherex
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 11:11 AM by housegsx
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 06:16 PM by viprez586
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Posted 09-16-2009 at 08:04 PM by Morpherex
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When that anti-seize get's hot, it'll run down into the caliper and could potentially get on the pad / rotor surface causing a safety issue.
It may not be a problem for casual street driving as the rear brakes don't get that hot. But I'd be concerned if you track the car at all.
Just something to consider.Posted 10-06-2009 at 12:32 PM by Scott McIntyre
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Posted 10-07-2009 at 05:37 AM by housegsx
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Personally, I'd err on the side of caution and completely remove any traces of grease / anti-seize on the spring as it's directly over the rotor & pad surface.
The pad backing plates might be OK (as per the service manual), but if the pads got hot enough I could imagine that grease / anti-seize finding its way to the rotor & pad surface as well. Just something to keep an eye on.Posted 10-07-2009 at 05:56 AM by Scott McIntyre









