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Blog Title: GreenGSX

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Pina Motorsports chromoly upper rear control arms

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Posted 03-01-2010 at 11:58 AM by GreenGSX

Last summer Andre at Pina Motorsports introduced his chromoly rear upper control arms for the 1G AWD and VR-4 platforms. They feature fully tig welded ends, heim joints, and a grease able ball joint end. The fine members of the GalantVR4.org took up a collection and purchased a set for the RochesterDSM One Lap team.

Installing them is simple. Just unbolt the ball joint and give the give the spindle where the joint passes through a couple of good whacks with a hammer to pop them out. Then just unbolt the adjusters and the olds ones are out. I made sure to measure the old arms before I took them out of the car so I when I installed the new ones I would at least be in the ballpark with my alignment.

The first photo you can see the Curtis modified control arms these new ones will be replacing. These were “boxed in” for strength and they took everything we could throw at them last year. If the chromoly arms were not donated we would have used these again for sure. The shots after that are the new control arms.


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Comments

  1. Old Comment
    Wow the chromoly one looks so much beefier.
    permalink
    Posted 03-01-2010 at 03:27 PM by airmail96 airmail96 is offline
  2. Old Comment
    whe3ls's Avatar
    those are sweet. i wish some would make and sell lower control arms
    permalink
    Posted 03-01-2010 at 03:50 PM by whe3ls whe3ls is offline
  3. Old Comment
    GreenGSX's Avatar
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by whe3ls View Comment
    those are sweet. i wish some would make and sell lower control arms
    Its my opinion that there is nothing wrong with either the stock upper or lower 1G AWD/VR-4 control arms. I have yet to hear of one fail. But there is a big problem getting the rear camber correct on a lowered car using the stock stuff. A 2G car you can just hit Lowes and put some washers in there but the options for 1G cars isn't quite so easy.

    Ingalls makes an adjustable upper control that I've used with success but one of them failed last year during the race so those are not an option for us. You can cut and weld the stock arms to get your range of adjustment back but unless you know what you are doing you can end up in the same boat as the ingalls arms. These arms are a good solution that use proven race car stuff like chromoly tubes, teflon lined heavy duty heim joints and ball joints with grease fittings.

    So if you have a good solution for your upper control arm and adjusting your camber there really isn't a need to upgrade or replace your lower arm.
    permalink
    Posted 03-01-2010 at 04:56 PM by GreenGSX GreenGSX is offline
  4. Old Comment
    Slippi84's Avatar
    Will these or even the subframe bushings in the picture you have help with straightline performance or acceleration?
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 12:37 AM by Slippi84 Slippi84 is offline
  5. Old Comment
    GreenGSX's Avatar
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Slippi84 View Comment
    Will these or even the subframe bushings in the picture you have help with straightline performance or acceleration?
    Although I am a pretty good bracket drag racer I don't have a lot of experience setting up a car for serious drag racing. And by serious I mean sub 11 second stuff. But here are my thoughts on the subject.

    Setting the rear end up for drag racing basically means you want as much contact area as you can get for traction which means 0 camber. It also means 0 toe. The Pina Motorsports control arms offer a huge range of adjustment meaning you can slam the car and still get back to 0 camber.

    When you launch at the drag strip the spinning tire wants to go all over the place and the only thing holding the toe in place is the front trailing arm link. That's why guys weld them or use the JNZ weld-in end links. But there is more to it then that. The upper and lower control arms bushings can move which changes the toe. The upper and lower ball joints can move which changes toe and the whole rear subframe can move. That's where the sub-frame and mustache bushings come into play.

    The reason toe is important is because it is what helps the rear of the car go in a strait line and every ounce of energy your car makes you want it to go in a strait line.

    Like I said I do not know a lot about how to set up a car for drag racing. Spring rates and shock setting/selection play a huge role in how you transfer weight and that translates into how much power you can put down. The bushings, control arms, welded trailing arms all help hold the suspension in the geometry you set it to and that lets the springs/shocks do there job. I would think that would make the car easier to set-up and more consistent.
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 07:09 AM by GreenGSX GreenGSX is offline
    Updated 03-02-2010 at 08:29 AM by GreenGSX
  6. Old Comment
    eclipsekid187's Avatar
    great information and yeah those new arms look like they can take some serious abuse.
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 09:31 AM by eclipsekid187 eclipsekid187 is offline
  7. Old Comment
    I would love to see more chomoly tube chassis pieces. Ive been playing around with some steel arms and not having much luck. Too much steel and their heavier then factory not enough and i just break them. That piece you have there looks very well done, what is the cost on a set going to be?
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 10:24 AM by 91stocker 91stocker is offline
  8. Old Comment
    xloki77x's Avatar
    3sx.com makes a set of adjustable upper control arms. They were originally made for the 3000gt/Stealth, but because 1g rear suspensions are so similar they fit perfectly and offer far superior strength to the weak Ingalls arms. They also come with a male rod end/heim joint and a grease-able balljoint. They are relatively cheap too @ ~$150. In no way am I sponsored or work for 3sx.com but I do run them and have had great success road racing/auto-xing/daily driving with these for the last year and a half. See them here 3SX Adjustable Control Arms - AWD Twin Turbo Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth Parts

    Pete
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 01:27 PM by xloki77x xloki77x is offline
  9. Old Comment
    GreenGSX's Avatar
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 91stocker View Comment
    I would love to see more chomoly tube chassis pieces. Ive been playing around with some steel arms and not having much luck. Too much steel and their heavier then factory not enough and i just break them. That piece you have there looks very well done, what is the cost on a set going to be?
    The chromoly arms are made in a short run batch type of operation and currently TunersNation.com is the only guy who has any. You can find them here.

    http://tunersnation.com/ZenCart/inde...oducts_id=1399
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 01:48 PM by GreenGSX GreenGSX is offline
  10. Old Comment
    Thanks, appreciate it
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 07:20 PM by 91stocker 91stocker is offline
  11. Old Comment
    Arms look pretty good. I would have added a little more filler rod on the welds but thats my personal opinion..They just look a litte too "root pass only" for my taste..let us know how they hold up
    permalink
    Posted 03-02-2010 at 08:26 PM by relicwelding relicwelding is offline
  12. Old Comment
    Dam I wish I saw this before I picked up my second set of ingalls I will get some of these after i break the second pair of ingalls
    permalink
    Posted 03-10-2010 at 07:27 PM by LONEWOLF01 LONEWOLF01 is offline
 
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