DSM Forums - Blogs http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/ DSM tech forums for performance enthusiasts. en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:03:34 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg DSM Forums - Blogs http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/ Best DEAL ever *Update* http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/4motion4g63/838-best-deal-ever-update.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:09:17 GMT Some of you might have looked at my blog from about a Year ago On a 2004 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab that I had bought for UBER cheap at $1800 big ones total... Just thought I might show you where it sits today... Image:... Some of you might have looked at my blog from about a Year ago On a 2004 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab that I had bought for UBER cheap at $1800 big ones total...
Just thought I might show you where it sits today...



I built a Full Custom back half replacing the Mess of a build I ended up finding....:hellyeah:
Ive never welded, So I bought my own and learned.
Ive never Fabricated, So I learned
Ive Never built a bagged truck so tell me what you think of my NEWBIE bag build...


Ive done the complete buildup...I Even wired my own 7 switch box...


And If you are wondering I still have my Talon... Even when Someone Offered to trade it for a 72 Short wide Chevy With a Small block 400 and a built 454 to go with it...Right Now its waiting on ITS turn in the garage to pull the motor and REbuild... stupid half shaft bolt..:ohdamn:

go to http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3167094 ]]> 4Motion4g63 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/4motion4g63/838-best-deal-ever-update.html 2.4 Liter G4CS build thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/837-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:05:59 GMT Last two weeks I been continuing work on the Interior.

I got rid of all the sound deadening material! I didn't have easy access to dry ice, so I went at all of it with a plastic scraper, a heat gun, and some goo gone. It took alot of time, I want to say.. two weeks since last update right? :P I would NOT reccomend this technique if you have access to the dry ice, but this did work, and cleaned up nicely. You can see on the firewall where I havn't even started to clean. That is how it starts. I will have to go back and clean everything one more time it looks like, but this is the majority of the work.

I got rid of the spare tire holder in the trunk. I just went at it with a dremel, and a lot of metal fatiguing. Anywhere where the tac welds went through the sheet metal, I covered up with some jb weld. Below the trunk is nothing, so all the jbweld is doing is keeping dust from coming into the trunk area. If I had easy excess to a welder I would have, but I don't feel it is "necessesary" to have to.

and Lastly, I still been removing wires here and there. Who knows when it will end? My only real concern lately has been do I remove the rear defroster or not. I think that the lexan glass does not have defrosters, so when the time comes for the carbon fiber hatch and lexan speed glass, I mise well remove the defroster now. Can anyone verify this hypothesis?
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]]> Atuca http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/837-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html Possibly buying a new 1G http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/booostedgsx/835-possibly-buying-new-1g.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:03:09 GMT After a lot of searching around for a winter beater, I've come along a cheap ($400) ride that might need $200 in work. My budget for a winter car was around $1800 or so.

As I was in my search for a winter car, I've found something that I haven't been looking for: a mint condition 90 AWD. I had a friend look at it for me because he lives really close to the car. He said the car is flawless inside and out. The only problem is that it jumped timing and the valves contacted the pistons. No biggie really, since I was planning on rebuilding my current car any way. The guy is only asking $1000 for the 1G and with its current condition, I figure that its a steal, not to mention it also fits into my budget and I'll be able to get a winter car.

If I am able to get this car, I would probably swap everything over from my current 90 AWD because the body on it isn't the best. After all is swapped over, I could try to part out whats left of the old 90 and possibly might be able to get the new 90 for almost nothing.

Hopefully all goes well and I can get a new, mint 90 AWD. :talon: ]]> booostedGSX http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/booostedgsx/835-possibly-buying-new-1g.html Details of build http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/clutch-gsx/833-details-build.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:39:59 GMT Here are the details:

6 Bolt Swap in ’98 Eclipse GSX

Head:
1G Head Ported, Deburred, Deflashed, & Chamber Work Done By Me
Head was Milled Flat
Valve Job
HKS 272/272 Cams
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
Custom Conical Springs With Custom Titanium Retainers
Ferrea 6000 Series Valves (1mm Over) Coated by Calico
New OEM Spring Seats
New High Viton Valve Seals from FFWD
New Ferrea Valve Guides 1mm Over
Oil Grooves in Cam Caps
New Revised Lifters
Refreshed Rockers
ARP Head Studs
OEM MLS Headgasket
Prothane Motor Mounts
Magnecore Sparkplug Wires

Block:
FFWD’s 2.3L Stroker XP-R Kit: Wiseco Pistons With Polished Valve Reliefs and Coated Top (Heat Coating) and Bottom (Oil Dispersement Coating) by Embee (.020” over), Scat Rods, Virgin 4G64 Crank with Champhered Oil Holes & Polished Journals
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings Coated by Calico
ARP Main Studs
Evo 8 Oil Squirters
Block was Deburred, Deflashed, and Painted Black by Me
Block was Milled
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
Forward Facing Oil Filter Bracket
New OEM Water Pump and Timing Components

Transmission:
Shep Stage 4 Tranny with Evo III 1st Gear
Fidanza 4.3 Clutch and Pressure Plate Kit
SS Clutch Line
Removed Balance Shafts

Exhaust:
DNP Exhaust Mani
Tail 38mm Wastegate .9 bar
Custom O2 eliminating downpipe
Still deciding on whether or not I want a cat here in California
Apexi N1 Catback Exhaust

Turbo/Fuel:
GT35R BB Turbo with .82 A/R Turbine Housing & Shroud S Compressor Housing
255 Walbro Fuel Pump with Rewire Kit
Hallman Pro RX Boost Controller
Custom Intercooler Setup with Spearco Core and Synchronic BOV
EVO 8 MAF
Hi-Flow Fuel System from FFWD with Aeromotive FPR
FIC 1050cc Injectors
Stock 1g TB and Intake so far

Electronics:
Black Top CAS
Prosport EGT, Oil Pressure, & Boost Gauges
’95 EPROM ECU
DSM Link V3
Innovative LC-1 Wideband O2 Sensor
Apexi Turbo Timer
RRE 1gina2g CAS Harness

Cooling:
Spal Fan
Mishimoto Radiator
New OEM Thermostat and Housing ]]> Clutch GSX http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/clutch-gsx/833-details-build.html We did it!!! We won at the finals!!! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/gixxerdrew/832-we-did-we-won-finals.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:53:54 GMT We won with the eclipse at Super Lap Battle finals! Detailed writeup next week, video, all coming soon! But the quick version is we blew up a gearbox, Sam and Robert at RRE came through with one for us to use, Karlo and Nick busted ass to get it swapped in over night. We limped at minimum... We won with the eclipse at Super Lap Battle finals!

Detailed writeup next week, video, all coming soon! But the quick version is we blew up a gearbox, Sam and Robert at RRE came through with one for us to use, Karlo and Nick busted ass to get it swapped in over night. We limped at minimum power and an open diff and still won by 3 seconds!



If we'd had the car running tip top, we are 100% confident to have broken the track record. ]]> gixxerdrew http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/gixxerdrew/832-we-did-we-won-finals.html Winter Build and a Deer? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/bluefire16/831-winter-build-deer.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 00:28:35 GMT So driving home the other day, i had just left coffee shop im opening, a deer decided to strike the side of my car. I didnt take any pictures but it was a huge dent, almost the whole rear quarter. Luckily if you look at my pics there was already a dent in the rear quarter when i bought the... So driving home the other day, i had just
left coffee shop im opening, a deer decided to strike the side of my car. I didnt take any pictures but it was a huge dent, almost the whole rear quarter. Luckily if you look at my pics there was already a dent in the rear quarter when i bought the car...well thats where the deer hit. So my insurance is covering everything and she is in the shop atm, for 6 days! I guess i have some down time to decide what i want to do when i get it back.

(Winter is coming here in michigan and the car is my dd so i think im gonna get it ready, snow tires, oil change, change fluids, ect...)

This winter i plan on trying to get the car CLEAN! I just did the engine, now its time for the interior. Custom sub box, might redo the carpet, and not sure what else, any ideas? ]]> Bluefire16 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/bluefire16/831-winter-build-deer.html 2.4 Liter G4CS build thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/829-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html Thu, 05 Nov 2009 03:03:40 GMT Well this week with my days off I dug into the interior rewire. Not a guide to follow which made it a real pain, not to mention I think the interior wiring is a thicker main loom with I'd guess 20 total connectors, instead of just the few the fusebox and engine harness had. This meant that removing a wire or connector meant removing pins from not one connector, but more like 3-4 pins per "wire" I wished to remove.

For a list of what I was removing, I am not quite sure if I am done yet.

I removed the stereo wiring, and stock infinity amplifier wiring. I plan on running thicker speaker wire from a removable amplifier to the 4 speakers, instead of running the amped wires to the stock connector and the thin factory wiring. The only wiring left on the radio plug is the 5 wires for power, remote, illumination, dimmer, and ground? Can't remember exactly :p The wiring was such a mess, and really poorly done Mitsubishi... I knew they ran the amplifier and stock speaker wire in parallel, but I didn' tknow that it meant crimping the wires from the amp into the standard speaker wires. Pretty lame if you ask me. Anyways, the rear speakers were the most PITA just because they ran from the plug, through all the dashboard wiring, to the plug on the drivers kick panel, than through the side to the speakers. The door speaker wiring I havn't yet tackled yet. At the plug, the wires change to a black wiring, seemingly larger gauge. At this point in time I don't know how I would even rewire it, I don't see how the wire was physically routed through the little door garmet. Hopefully next week I can figure it out so than I can route the new speaker wire. Had I just wanted to remove my speakers for weight I probably wouldn't care, but I figure a little music in the pits would add some character.

All the A/C HVAC connectors and the heater core and fan plugs. In total there were about 6 or 7 plugs and I thought I be removing a ton of wiring by doing this. In reality, more than half of those wires were just connected to the other plugs or to the cores not more than 12 inches away. Only the ground wire, power wire, and A/C fan (routed to the engine bay to turn that fan on).

Now I am not 100% sure if that means I am no longer able to run my A/C fan on my radiator. I know there are people that pull the fan because it only helps cool the engine while idling? Anyone got any more insight on that? If it still helps I am sure I could wire it to turn on with the main radiator fan, other wise I will go ahead and remove it like Eric did.

Lastly I removed all the SRS wiring. That was the most difficult as it just seem to run everywhere. Only thing left is the SRS ring on the steering wheel mount. Is there a way to remove it, the wiring, but leave the center alone so that the blinker still works? Or do I just need to cut the SRS wiring on both sides of the ring?


That was it for the past two days. My butt is so sore from sitting on the floorboard of the car for so many hours. I decided for the ake of ease of reinstallation, I rewire inside the vehicle, instead of removing the harness and not knowing how to route all the little odd ball connectors back. Made it a little harder for the rewire, but gonna be a sinch putting it back together. With all the crimps mitsubishi did to the wiring and the power and grounds all spidered throughout the car, I am really considering going back and sodering and heat shrink wrapping everything... The thought is there especially now I removed some of the reasons to have a crimp...

Lastly, on my way to get groceries tonight, a new skateboard shopped had opened up next to it. On an impulse I ran in (against my fiance's wish :p) and picked up some skateboard bearings. A restoration on my shifter is long over due..

As always, I would appreciate input on my questions, please and thank you! See you next update!
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]]> Atuca http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/829-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html Update #3 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/kevin-tsi/828-update-3.html Mon, 02 Nov 2009 01:52:22 GMT Not too much of an update but we moved the car into its new home for now. Snapped a couple shots while it was out of the cave. Notice the dragging mark through the gravel on the picture with the truck pulling it. Brakes are no good now. haha The crossbar across the door area is not the roll... Not too much of an update but we moved the car into its new home for now. Snapped a couple shots while it was out of the cave. Notice the dragging mark through the gravel on the picture with the truck pulling it. Brakes are no good now. haha

The crossbar across the door area is not the roll cage btw its a broomstick I had in there as a joke. The cage will be in soon though!

~~~~~~~We will have a 4 bolt rear on Tuesday. Finally got the engine bay painted as well as the subframe back in so we can roll the car around. Bought a topmount and 3.5" downpipe. The downpipe in the pics when the manifold is on the turbo is a 3" for mock up. I need to change the flange on the 3.5" before we can bolt it on. Also will have a set of D2 coilovers on the way in about 2 weeks. Haven't found any real complaints about them what do you guys think? We need the coil overs to fit our rotas and quick time pros.~~~~~


Getting it back on its wheels.

Ford aspire?










]]> Kevin TSI http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/kevin-tsi/828-update-3.html First Track experience with the new dizzum. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/sbstar/827-first-track-experience-new-dizzum.html Sat, 31 Oct 2009 02:58:02 GMT I'll try to keep this short. But first of all to explain the car a little bit. This is my third attempt at building my 14b drag car. The first one I had lightened to a tin can (best guess was about 2400lbs or less) and had most of the mods I wanted minus proper wheels/tires. I had to sell it due to financial reasons (put myself through college). The second one never really got off the ground, made a great DD and I sold it when a lady ran a red light and totalled the wife's DD, we needed a down payment for something new. This one was a labor of love from the DSM community, a large majority of the parts were given to me free of charge or at unbelieveable deals, including the shell which was free of charge! I can't thank those in the dsm community enough that helped me out! A special thanks go out to DSMLoki for providing me with a garage to assemble it.

Anyways on to 10-16-09. I didn't plan on going to the track as I had alot of things I wanted to do to the car still before my first outing. My only goals this year were to get out to the track and make a 13 second pass. A buddy called me though and said he was going and offered to lend me a spare ecu (mine wouldn't let the car past 4500rpms, leaky caps suck!). So I fixed a coolant leak and headed out!



Milan dragway was nearly empty as the weather was nearing the high 40's at best. I pulled in, went through tech and straight up to the starting line. On the way there WOT pulls resulted in 14psi. Things felt good off the launch, wipers started going, hit 2nd, hit 3rd, MISSED 4th! Slammed it in and got back on the gas feeling like a newb! This was only my 2nd trip down the 1320 ever so I had no idea how I did other then the car felt great up until that missed shift. Grabbed my time slip and nearly flipped out!



I met my goals for the year and then some! The 1/8th time and MPH meant that it could've potentially been a 12.9 second pass!

Of course, what could've been doesn't mean anything so I lined back up again. Launch wasn't as good (1.85) and I missed the proper rpm shift point for the 1-2 then missed 4th again! Something didn't feel right after that. Drove around and found out I dumped oil all over the track! Apparently I blew the line for my oil pressure gauge. Lesson learned, never use a mechanical oil pressure gauge, especially with nylon line. So now I have a nasty rod knock and the car will be down until next year. Didn't even get a chance to turn the boost up. But at least I got my goal for this year. Next year it's low 12's or bust!

Relevant mods
14b @ 14psi w/7cm ported hotside
Buschur MBC
Walbro 255
Hard intake pipe w/K&N & slightly hacked 1g maf
Built trans (welded diff, double syncroes)
ACT 2600 (used)
SBR 1g exhaust mani
3" turboback
2.5" tubular open dump O2 housing
Some weight loss including - no rear bumper, half front bumper, no A/C, no spare tire/tools, no sound system
Still nearly full interior, all seats, carpets, plastics

Again thanks to everyone who helped out with this car, I owe you guys!



Hopefully within a month or so we'll be moving into a new place with a garage and I can start the rebuild process. Plans for next year include DSMLink and an Evo FMIC which I've already picked up as well as some significant weight loss. After that hopefully I'll pick up some larger injectors and a wideband and throw some E-85 at her. ]]> SBstar http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/sbstar/827-first-track-experience-new-dizzum.html More progress, shortblock assembled http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/denozzo/826-more-progress-shortblock-assembled.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:13:34 GMT I got my fuel pump rewire kit installed yesterday and finished assembling my short block. Now I just need to get a long block gasket kit, oil pump/front case, headstuds, headgasket, and all new t-belt components and that should take care of my long block. Then I will still have things to get like... I got my fuel pump rewire kit installed yesterday and finished assembling my short block. Now I just need to get a long block gasket kit, oil pump/front case, headstuds, headgasket, and all new t-belt components and that should take care of my long block. Then I will still have things to get like the turbo, exhaust, clutch, etc. Although I think I may just put a lot of the old stock parts back on just for the fact that I need to get this thing back together quick and cheap. But at least I'll have a good motor to start modding.

The short block is all stock with arp main studs and new piston rings.

]]> DeNoZZo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/denozzo/826-more-progress-shortblock-assembled.html 2.4 Liter G4CS build thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/825-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:29:49 GMT Well Santa came early wearing all brown! I got my packages this last weekend and spent several hours sorting through all the parts, matching part numbers and ensuring everything turned out great. Props go out to Slowboy Racing, Kiggly, and VR Speed Factory for the great prices, and wonderful... Well Santa came early wearing all brown!

I got my packages this last weekend and spent several hours sorting through all the parts, matching part numbers and ensuring everything turned out great. Props go out to Slowboy Racing, Kiggly, and VR Speed Factory for the great prices, and wonderful service.

These are the parts I have ordered thus far, and as I was checking off my "master" list I noticed I forgot a few items, i.e. timing tensioner and pulleys, external oil cooler, things that smart people shouldn't forget heh. But I'll make another order through these folks and will be alll gooood :)


1. Freeze Plugs Top Line
2. Rod Bearings ACL Trimetal Race 4B1146H-STD
3. Main Bearings ACL Trimetal Race 5M1144H-STD
4. Main Girdle Kiggly
5. Main Studs ARP 207-5401
6. Balance Shaft Removal Kit MD040597,MD103722,MD092785,MD098626,MD128107
8. Timing Belt 2.4l g4cs / 4g64 OEM belt md331076
11. Tensioner Arm OEM Timing Belt Tensioner Arm MD-130032
12. Harmonic Balancer Fluidampr FDR-630701
14. Crank Pully Bolt ARP 207-2501
15. Water Pump and Gasket MD972052
19. Oil Filter Bracket Gasket MD149370
20. Oil Pump Front Case MD175762
21. Oil Pump Front Case Gasket MD149393
23. Castle Nut Plug MD125376
24. Castle Nut Plug O-Ring MD041021
25. Crankshaft Rear Oil Seak Gasket MD183243
26. Crankshaft Rear Main Seal MD343564
33. Stud to Transfer Case MD065945
35. Oil Tube O-Ring MD075834
36. Oil Strainer Gasket MD183240
38. Cylinder Block Dowel Pin MF472403 x2
39. Cylinder Block to Head Bushing MS471111 x2
40. Cam Gears 90-99 Eclipse 2.0L turbo (blue) - Fidanza 961999
41. Cam Gear Bolt MF140285 x2
42. Cam Gear Seals MD372536 x2
43. Springs and Retainers Evo VIII
44. Lifters Topline TPL-LIFMI6-16
45. MLS Headgasket Cometic C4235-051 87mm
46. Head Studs ARP 207-4201
47. CAS O-Ring MD619648
48. Intake Manifold Gasket MD188995
50. Thermostat Housing Gasket MD145038
51. Thermostat Kit MD997607
57. Flywheel XACT Streetlite 600150
58. Throttle Body to Manifold Gasket MD146399
59. Throttle Body to Elbow Gasket MD340327


Next bit of business, is with all these parts, I believe I am ready for the machine shop. :hellyeah:

As for the engine harness, it is still coming along. I am at the point now where I am routing the locations of the wires, relocating, and planning out how and where I am going to put new plugs like Eric did. Man that guy and his bro have been so much help, another props to him on finally finishing it last weekend!! :thumb:

Thats all for updates, I have questions posted in my build THREAD, feel free to swing over there if you think you can answer :)
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]]> Atuca http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/atuca/825-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html My engine build PICS http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/92talontsibryce/823-my-engine-build-pics.html Tue, 27 Oct 2009 03:11:37 GMT Ok well here is my first blog about my build. Sorry about the pictures not showing up im still trying how to figure this all out. Well enjoy ---Quote (Originally by 92talontsibryce)--- Ok well one of my balance shaft bearings went out so i decided to pull the motor and do a mild rebuild. My... Ok well here is my first blog about my build. Sorry about the pictures not showing up im still trying how to figure this all out. Well enjoy

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92talontsibryce View Post
Ok well one of my balance shaft bearings went out so i decided to pull the motor and do a mild rebuild. My plans our to bse kit, front case w oil pump, main and rod bearings, maybe new rods and pistons just depending on what my budget can afford and im sure some more stuff will come up. But this is my first engine build so i will have alot of questions and look forward to see how this build goes. Here are some pics of my progress so far.:hellyeah:

Thanks,
Bryce
]]> 92talontsibryce http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/92talontsibryce/823-my-engine-build-pics.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 27 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/822-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-27.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:08:43 GMT The wiring harness is also done. I ended up adding 12 new connectors from Ladd Inc. The fuse box has 3 (1 pin DTHD, 4 pin DTP, and 31 pin HDP20), one is just for the injectors (12 pin DT), two each just inside the cabin at each fender (4 pin DTP and 31 pin HDP20), one inside the firewall for the... The wiring harness is also done. I ended up adding 12 new connectors from Ladd Inc. The fuse box has 3 (1 pin DTHD, 4 pin DTP, and 31 pin HDP20), one is just for the injectors (12 pin DT), two each just inside the cabin at each fender (4 pin DTP and 31 pin HDP20), one inside the firewall for the ecu harness (47 pin HDP20), one just for the windshield wipers (6 pin DT), and two go between the ecu and fuse box harnesses near the ecu (12 pin DT and 12 pin DT). The picture below is the harness laid out like it goes in the car, and the new connectors are circled.

Attachment 102043

There are multiple connectors at some points because I had a few large gauge wires that wouldn't fit in my main connector. I also upgraded the headlight wires to 12ga. in case I go with HID's in the future. I needed a connector for the windshield wipers because I routed it through plates I made that used to be for the cabin air intake. The clutch cut wire for dsmlink was routed along the dash harness that I did not modify, and from there goes through a factory connector to the ecu harness. I had some spare wires laying around that had the right pin on the end to fit in that connector. The knock sensor and o2 sensor wires were a little tricky to get through connectors because they have a shielding wire inside. I had to use a separate pin for the shielding wire and keep it right next to the other wires when going through the connector. A little bit of heat shrink on the shielding made sure it wasn't exposed. The fuse box uses two 4ga. wires to get power from the distribution block.

Attachment 102044

New tie rods.

Attachment 102045

Powdercoated the ecu.

Attachment 102046

Powderocated a few more parts in the engine bay and put them in. More things have been put in the engine bay since this picture, but this is pretty much how it looks.

Attachment 102047 ]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/822-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-27.html My Fuse Box Relocation and Cleanup Project - Part 26 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/821-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-26.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:57:04 GMT Sorry for the big gap between the previous part and this one. See my thread for all that stuff. ---Quote (Originally by turbosax2)--- My battery relocation is finally complete. Parts list: JEGS 300A kill switch (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10307/10002/-1) JEGS clear anodized billet... Sorry for the big gap between the previous part and this one. See my thread for all that stuff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosax2 View Post
My battery relocation is finally complete.

Parts list:
JEGS 300A kill switch
JEGS clear anodized billet faceplate
(3) JEGS 1/2" terminal guards
Negative battery terminal
Positive battery terminal
(6) 3/8-in Stud Terminal Insulators
2/0 Red/black battery terminal insulators
Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing
Terminal Solder Slugs
Heavy-duty Tinned Copper Lugs
Tinned Copper Crimp Lugs
(2) Moroso Thru-Panel Battery Connectors
Summit Racing black battery box
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire - purchased 50ft. and used ~44ft.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire - used ~4ft.
KnuKonceptz KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System - all three 150A fuses
KnuKonceptz In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse - 200A fuse
(2) XScorpion Circuit breaker - 200A
McMaster PUSH-IN FLEXIBLE RUBBER GROMMET, MS 35489-27, AN 931-24-28, 1-1/2"ID,2-1/8"OD - P/N 9307K84
Reusing original battery for now

Tools:
Solderless Connector Crimping Tool
Liquid Flux
Cable Cutter
Rotary Cable Stripper




Attachment 102019

Attachment 102020

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I don't have any good pictures of the cables in the engine bay or the fuse box cables to the distribution block right now.


The pictures pretty much sum it up but I'll make some comments. The spare tire and washer fluid bottle brackets were cut out of the trunk to make room for the battery box.

The cable I used looks to be good stuff but it is so big it is actually 2/0, not 1/0ga. This means I had a tough time finding all the lugs and parts I needed. Some lugs I got had to be crimped then soldered, others I could use the solder slug system on. The reason for this is because I always matched the bolt hole in the lug to each place it was bolting to - no "one size lug fits all" here. If you're really interested in the lugs let me know and I'll try to remember which size worked for each spot. To see the solder slug installation watch this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs

For the copper crimp lugs I couldn't use the solder slugs, so I had to crimp them using the tool listed above. After crimping I heated the lugs with a torch and shoved solder in until it was full. Both methods worked equally well IMO.

Triple-wall adhesive polyolefin heat shrink tubing tubing is the sh*t. Nuff said. :thumb:

At first I got Taylor battery cable terminals, but my wire was too big to fit in them. Then I got 2/0 ones from McMaster that looked identical to the Taylor ones. However, they are both Universal fit and I didn't like that. So instead I bought the ones listed above that are specific to (+) and (-) terminals (which are different sizes) and I like the fit better. All 3 sets looked identical otherwise.

The circuit breakers are kind of a no-name brand. They were the best 200A ones I could find. I bought Stinger circuit breaker covers for them, and they would have fit with a little modification. However, my lugs were so big I would have had to cut out quite a bit for them to work. I liked the terminal insulators better so I used them.

The kill switch is heavy and big. Be warned, but it does look like a quality piece.

The 1/2" terminal insulators were used at the kill switch and both sides of the thru-panel connectors. The 3/8" ones were used at the circuit breakers, alternator, and starter.

One circuit breakers is mounted to the battery box. I had to use slim head flanged allen fasteners on the inside of the box to provide a full adjustment range for the battery tie down (McMaster P/N 92137A535). The other circuit breaker is bolted to a stud on the rear of the car. Only one mounting point is used. The fuse and distribution block on the firewall are mounted with heavy duty velcro. Couldn't think of a better way without putting holes in the firewall.

The little plastic things under the kick panel where the wires run had to be trimmed on the bottom because the wires are so thick. Took a minute with the Dremel.

The trunk plastic panels still fit fine, they just weren't on for the pictures.

The battery grounds on the drivers frame rail (pictured).

To get the wires to the kill switch, I used a factory hole in the rear of the car. I believe it was about 1.3" or so from the factory, and I used a hole saw to drill it out to 1.75" to use the grommet listed above. The factory wires still go through this hole along with three 2/0 wires. Drilling through this metal was kind of tricky with the hole saw because I had to start with an existing hole. I ended up grinding it out with a Dremel until it was 1.5", then I bolted my 1.75" hole saw on the drill then my 1.5" hole saw backwards to act as a guide in the hole. While drilling the metal tried to tweak because it is so thin so be careful.


I think that's way more info than any of you wanted, but ask questions if you have them.
]]> turbosax2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/turbosax2/821-my-fuse-box-relocation-cleanup-project-part-26.html DSM_BOYs 800awhp/AWD Conversion Part 7 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/dsm_pwr/820-dsm_boys-800awhp-awd-conversion-part-7.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:37:19 GMT *_Crank Install_* Starting with the Main Bearings to the block, with plenty of assembly lube Image: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b229/bornlastnight/Apocalypse/DSC01570.jpg Image: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b229/bornlastnight/Apocalypse/DSC01663.jpg Image:... Crank Install
Starting with the Main Bearings to the block, with plenty of assembly lube





Carefully set the crank onto the bearings and give it a few spins around just to make sure it spins freely..


At this point I like to check the clearances using Plastigage's



Rest of the Main Bearings on to the Main Caps and lube up the top…

Installed along with the Kiggly Girdle




I also like checking the Crank Endplay by using a Magnet and Dial Indicator.
Using a lever to push the Crank, The endplay was right at .0025 (Perfect)



Finally I removed the Main caps and checked the plastigage's, right at .003 (Perfect)


Piston/Rods Install

Using the Piston Ring Compressor, I wrapped it around the piston and tightened it down.


Used a towel and Hammer to press down the Piston into the bore


Lined up the Rod to the crank journal and torqued down the ARP bolts to 40ft lbs w/Moly Lube


Finished Product, giving it a few spins to make sure nothing hits and spins freely


]]> DSM_PWR http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/dsm_pwr/820-dsm_boys-800awhp-awd-conversion-part-7.html