Blog Title: boosted spartan
Rod and Main Bearings
Posted 08-04-2008 at 05:31 PM by boosted spartan
Well I am about to have a Shortblock be built for my brothers project 2g, its a 6-bolt and we are wondering what engine bearings to use. The crank has already been cut .010", had some grooves you could feel with your nail but nothing major the machine guy said it needed to be cut this time to .020" going to have it micro-polished as well and with 50mm (.020") bearings on both the rods and mains we should be good to go! Now this is no over the top build money wise its going to have Wiseco pistons on Eagle H-Beam rods, BS removed, new oil pump, water pump etc etc. I have been reading many threads on other forums where people are spinning rod bearings after 1k - 2k miles on their rebuilds so I'm kinda scared. I am somewhat of a n00b when it comes to putting engines together, having a close friend of mine do the assembly he builds mostly Hondas and was nice enough to take on the "Shitsubishi" Challange 
. I want to hear from you guys which bearings are best in your experience. I did couple of searches on Calico's coated engine bearings and came out with nothing, seems like a good choice since the crank is being micro-polished. I had my eyes on Clevites' Tri-Metal Bearings but after a quick search and finding out they are no longer Tri-Metal I had to look into something else. For the clearance size I'm looking for its gonna be either ACL's Race Bearings or Calico Coated Bearings.
Any help with other bearings available? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks for Reading.
-boosted spartan
. I want to hear from you guys which bearings are best in your experience. I did couple of searches on Calico's coated engine bearings and came out with nothing, seems like a good choice since the crank is being micro-polished. I had my eyes on Clevites' Tri-Metal Bearings but after a quick search and finding out they are no longer Tri-Metal I had to look into something else. For the clearance size I'm looking for its gonna be either ACL's Race Bearings or Calico Coated Bearings.Any help with other bearings available? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks for Reading.
-boosted spartan
Total Comments 7
Comments
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Ok.. Im no professional by far. If the crank had already been cut .010 over and now youre grinding it .020 over... Wouldnt that mean you need .030 bearings for it?Posted 08-04-2008 at 05:58 PM by Shadow21
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I'm sorry actually its being cut .010" again, so its .020".Posted 08-04-2008 at 06:04 PM by boosted spartan
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These crankshafts have hardened surfaces and are weakend drasticly by having material "cut" off. I highly sugest finding a good used core and having the journals just polished.
ACL and Clevit are both very good bearings. I run a set of Clevit in my AWD and ACL's in my FWD.Posted 08-04-2008 at 06:37 PM by turbo90gsx
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I appreciate the replies, but we seem to be low on cash and parts for DSM's down here are pretty high. So I'll have to work with what I have, I have narrowed it down to either Calico's Coated Bearings or ACL. But it seems ACL Race Bearings are not offered in 50mm but SBR seems to have them, any info on this?
Thanks again everyone.Posted 08-05-2008 at 04:03 PM by boosted spartan
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This is regarding the turned crank. I have to agree and say that you should not bother using that crank. You have a high chance of doing more damage than good. Call any of your reputable shops and ask them about cut cranks. The ones I have spoke with so far are JNZ Tuning and Road Race Engineering. Both of them say that they will never use cut cranks in any of the engines that go through their shops. Keep checking the classifieds, or call DSM graveyard and see what they can do for you. A crank on the classifieds usually won't break the bank.Posted 08-05-2008 at 06:39 PM by ChunkyLover53
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NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!
No cut crank!
Or you'll end up like me, getting a weird vibration at about 3500rpm's wondering and trying to convince yourself it's only an exhaust vibration, until your car starts making insane noises, and you push the clutch in all the way to the floor and the car dies on the side of a highway somewhere and you want to just run out into traffic and this isn't a run on sentence I'm just not breathing at the moment and when you pull the pan you see the end of your crank fall in your hand and the #4 journal slops off and the flywheel is flapping around in the wind!!!
:
Phewwww!!!
DON'T USE A CUT CRANK!
Mitsubishi uses a special enforcment coating when they make the crank, so when you machine it down you burn off that protective coating. It's something they do to save money and use cheaper metal. Go figure.Posted 08-06-2008 at 01:23 PM by mikelv
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Sorry to hear bro, as for me I have wonderful news guys! My friend calls me and tells me he has a 6 bolt shortblock he wants to junk if i needed something from it. Well I make the drive after work and we start taking it apart, pull oil pan stock rods SO FAR SO GOOD!! crank looks good pull out the mains and the rods and wala take crank out its a virgin 6 bolt and the best part i got it for FREE!!! im taking it to the machine shop tomorrow and having it micro-polished, ordering STD bearings tonight but still cant make my mind ACL's Race or Calico coated.
Thank you all very very much! I am looking forward to finishing it and reporting back.Posted 08-06-2008 at 03:52 PM by boosted spartan
